A quick look on Cars-On-Line shows several 440 '70 Challengers, least expensive being a Plum Crazy car listed at $58,995 & sold, but it looked nice.
Generally, mid-60s would seem to be a target price for a nice one that needs details sorted, but of course a close look & drive could swing any car's value up or down.
I've lost count of how many muscle Mopars I've bought since the '80s, but very few were actually as good or better than advertised - maybe 3 out of probably 30 ?
I'm pretty picky, especially when it comes to spending near top or at top of market, though.
If the car floats your boat, and checks out, there's value in that as well - and they don't seem to be depreciating...

In addition to all that has been mentioned already, when I blew the pic up on my PC I could see the wiper mounting hardware was painted red too.

Proceed with caution.

Market price on any used vehicle will vary, we all know that.

If that car is exactly what you want from the pictures, then look at it and decide if it's in the condition you expect. If it is, then negotiate on-site. If not, enjoy the trip home.

If this is the car you want, do you want to pass it over for a few grand, only to look back and think, that was a mistake?

There is a lot of Validity to Mikes comment and I can relate.


And that is exactly why I own the car I currently do.
I upped my original budget, (by about 20k actually ) But I have ZERO regrets And now own the car of my dreams.

I actually proposed to the family to sell mine and buy something less expensive and pocket quite a bit of cash . But it got shot down by all,

My car,,,isnt for sale.

I've been in the resto repair business for many years. I see many things in the pic's that are cause for concern unless it's priced accordingly. Being at a stealership it's unlikely. I would pay more for a pristine car that is documented than buy one that needs 20-40k or more put into it. the more one looks, the more they see

That’s a really interesting catch. Hmm.

Problem is you can’t order these things and it lacks what I’d want in order to just force a deal. It’s close enough to ideal that I’d take it if it’s reasonable. The deal must be right or I’d end up way over where it should be if I overpay and then set about correcting things. It obviously has a laundry list of needs. I dont mind fixing Knick knacks if the major stuff is ok. All that to say do you have a number you’d put on it?

It’s interesting my estimate is lower than the few opinions here.

I immediately came up with a tight band I thought it was in as soon as I confirmed NOM. Then I found what they gave was a bit more. My initial impression was they followed the time honored method of making your money when you buy, so I figured they were in it far under market, and had it priced to take an offfer and move it quickly for first chance at a profit. It doesn’t help they Mickey. Moused up the exhaust worse than it started with. Day I called it was at a shop getting the exact wrong mufflers for a car like this. I doubt they were even bad, only “too quiet” for the seller, which really doesn’t figure on a flip.

Still I think this car has major potential for local shows and then logging miles like Mopar muscle should. It’s a rare car with eye candy for the casual person that might not appreciate the classy stuff. This is in your face and through the front door.

As you know, I missed my dream car. Damn circumstances. Sigh. Last I knew it basically doubled in price and I can’t justify anything like that, especially with the major repair it still needs.

There are plenty of Challengers out there. Keep saving up and when the one you want comes up, you will be ready to get it.

Car looks nice. Great Color
I sold 2 U code Challengers about 3 years ago.
Both were 4 speeds and numbers matching. I would say in similar condition.
I sold the cars for 60K

I know it was a few years ago and prices have bounced around a bit.

Good luck with you decision!

Thanks that’s an interesting data point.

Once I made the first call and asked a couple things, I pegged it at 60-62. My thinking was they scored it at 55-57 and priced it at 72.5 looking to get an offer around market to turn a quick buck. I went searching for comparables and to my surprise found where they paid 63. I think that’s all the money the car can pull with NOM as it knocks it off the list for the deep pocket collector, let alone the details it lacks. The main thing they’ve done is save me a haul bill and/or big trip(s) to go goose chasing.

The major draw for me is the CA body. Now that I’ve had one of those, I can’t go back. I had a 71 cuda from Texas and you can’t even put it in the same league as an untouched metal car.

I always feel we are on the same line of thought and to be honest didn't scrutinize the trim rings. My main black bottom comment was the front suspension being all blacked out didn't realize LA plant cars are black bottoms.
I guess the main thing is every car I buy ends up getting the RT Specialties treatment along with Mega Parts, BE+A and countless vendors on E-Bay.

So what I'm saying is if original sheetmetal and great colors go see it but expect to throw weekend projects at it if you're an anal type like myself.
Oh and I'll take non ## over bad metal anyday!!!

Ron

We be alike on that Ronnie
When Im looking at a done car. I go in planning I will have to spend a couple grand on the car detailing / bringing it up to my taste level.
Problem is you cant really factor that money in. Each buyers wants / desires / tastes are different.

But I will take an OEM metal car over matching numbers every time. Plus there is an off chance the oem block might turn up someday. A friend of mine in Ky just bought the original block to his sixbarrel super bird. And they had been separated for eons

If its truly all oem metal. That will make up ( to some degree ) for the non numbers drivetrain

Driving down the road you cant tell its the oem block , or not.
But I put a lot of comfort in knowing I dont have to worry about cheap panel replacement issues coming back out in a few years

Thats one of the things I really like about earlier cars. Its just a date code.
My cars engine is dead nuts perfect date code wise. And I could tell you its the oem block. But I know for a fact,,its not..

Chris ,

In my opinion,

Its close enough. Take a day trip to see the car .
And truly get a feel for what its worth TO YOU

I’ve been looking at current and past listings for days. Everything is

Junk
Too far to have bothered
Green
FK5
383
Junk
Overpriced to point of not mattering to me
Far from ideal for me for whatever reason
Oh and junk

Thanks for the replies. Any other guesses on value are certainly welcomed

Sometimes the best cars aren't advertised; they surface in a conversation here or through other networking.
That's how I stumbled onto my '69 RR, and I couldn't be happier with it.

Nice car but yeah the more you look the more you see - I just noticed the vinyl top, the seams should be running down the sail panels. I think I would rather have had this black 383 car instead, wasn't it priced somewhere around 60K?
https://www.myhotcars.com/1970-dodge-challenger-r-t-s-e-c-2120.htm

A friend of mine has a triple black RT/SE, 383, 727 loaded with everything. It's just sitting rotting away. I've tried several times to buy it or at least help him get it out of the weather, he's had it since 73 or so. Sad.

I’m no aficionado, but I think the se had it to the middle. Maybe a plant to plant thing?

BTW the top green one is for sale in the same ballpark, but I can’t take the acres of green and a real mucked over engine bay, even for the four speed. I’d look at a car like that if it were local and see if it wins me over or could be had on an offer. I used to take whatever came my way in colors, but I’m over it and settling isn’t going to cut it for me anymore.