Thinking of going to look at this car. Need input on value as the talks have gone well enough that we are 5k apart. This is pretty close to a bucket list car for me. Would be breaking down the door if it had a few other things. As such, I don’t need to be dropping the extra money just to get into a car.

CA built and has N95 code on tag. Has tips now, which I prefer.
Supposed to be still all original body panels. Huge plus to me.
Factory red car.
Overhead console and headliner are nice.
Original trans
Drum brakes all around, not an issue for me other than value

Demerits include

NOM, claimed to be 70s steel crank motor is all info I have
black bottom,
exhaust is wonky setup I’d have to replace,
lacks blackout in a few places I see, and that driveshaft w t f
tires are ancient, probably 20 years old.

Story goes it was in a dealers collection and sat in a showroom for years. There are some pics to back that up. No other history.

Is that the correct steering wheel?

More

This car is awesome. Really making me miss my 73....bad. Because I don't know, what is with all the thumbwheels on the radio? I have never seen that. Also, will be interested to know about the steering wheel.
Is this a restored car? Marking on rear end looks pretty fresh. If you decide not to purchase it, I bet there would be a lot of us who would get in line behind you. Best of luck!

Seller thinks it’s likely 15-20 years old old resto. Also unlikely it saw much action. Supposedly runs good, but I don’t know how much anybody could take it out and get fully warmed up with those old tires.

I thought that looks like a correct 70 thumb wheel, but I haven’t had an e body in close to 20 years so I’m a bit out of the game on those things.

That’s a rare am/fm thumbwheel radio and the horn ring was an option as well. Kinda rare. Now the very highly sought after option is the leftover paint red driveshaft! Lol. Go figure. Looks like a nice car. It’s hard to see but I think they painted the brake master firewall stiffening plate. It should be black if they even installed it.

Nice looking car. If done 20+ years ago, not all things would be expected to be 100% correct. Mopar crowd has gotten much, much pickier over the years. Me personally, I liked buying Mopars 40+ years ago when nobody cared a hoot about them and the picky guys were the Vette guys. Anything you point out could be easily dealt with if you need it to be that way.

and the alignment cams look like they have been painted as well.
these are 2 huge red flags. inspect this car closely for other hack shortcuts. the 2 listed could be minor stuff or they could be the tip of the iceberg.

All the items that need to be black are first thing I notice to see if a mopar guy built a car. That concerns me here, weird thing is the car looks ok in general, so why did they drop the ball in a few places? Seems it should have a pedal dress up kit too. Small things, but what big things are out of order?

It’s coded R11 so the radio was added.

Any ideas on value for a NOM U code?

I watched the video about a month ago and love the car overall but yes a bunch of corners cut underhood. Red brake backing plate and wire holder, alignment covers and cam bolts,radiator cap distributor cap battery holddown intake valley pan neg. battery cable mounting preheat hose electronic ignition etc... The shocks the driveshaft black underside and the center section all wrong. The exhaust is the least of the wrong items I see, trunk lock, hood latch grommet around dimmer switch possibly reproduction wheels due to backside being gray not black etc... I like the car overall as I said but DO NOT buy site unseen. Funny how in person a near perfect paint job looks way different.

Good luck with your quest because of all these things maybe 65Kish.
Ron

Very attractive

U-code 440 4bbl in 1970 with N95 got chrome tips.

If the car spent it's early life in CA and was probably restored 20+ years ago it likely was clean enough that the person that sprayed the engine compartment just steam cleaned it then prepped and painted. For whatever reason they were not to concerned with the details under the hood it wasn't that important to most people back then. I've seen a lot of cars with engine compartments like this over the years. As with all cars these days I'd inspect before buying

LA plant build the bottom of the car SHOULD BE black

Im surprised the wheel trim rings or dime store battery cable ends haven't been mentioned yet


I was interested in a VERY similar car maybe a year or so ago. that was in Florida . But it wasnt anywhere near $65k

.

comparibles

https://www.classiccarliquidators.com/vehicles/5638/1970-dodge-challenger-r-t




https://cars-on-line.com/listing/1970-dodge-challenger-r-t-377580/

I parsed the tag again today and noticed it was coded for the tips. I didn’t know that worked like that.

I do happen to know what they gave for this car. Kinda intriguing, but also doesn’t mean I can use it to any advantage. Looking to see what you guys think is range.

I remember the Florida car. 99.44% that’s not this one. The showroom pics really prove again it. Florida one had cowl rot.

You need to go see the car in person to see it for yourself and drive it.

If the seller is willing to accommodate, they should be willing to put new or newer tires on it for the drive.

+1

Or have a person that you trust and really has knowledge to check it out.

Carsten

I’m capable of looking the car over. If they are above market on it then I don’t need to waste my time. Any other opinions on price? I was hoping to compare my number to what you guys think. I happened to hit it within a grand of what they gave. If they weren’t there bidding to flip it would’ve hit my number.

A quick look on Cars-On-Line shows several 440 '70 Challengers, least expensive being a Plum Crazy car listed at $58,995 & sold, but it looked nice.
Generally, mid-60s would seem to be a target price for a nice one that needs details sorted, but of course a close look & drive could swing any car's value up or down.
I've lost count of how many muscle Mopars I've bought since the '80s, but very few were actually as good or better than advertised - maybe 3 out of probably 30 ?
I'm pretty picky, especially when it comes to spending near top or at top of market, though.
If the car floats your boat, and checks out, there's value in that as well - and they don't seem to be depreciating...

In addition to all that has been mentioned already, when I blew the pic up on my PC I could see the wiper mounting hardware was painted red too.

Proceed with caution.

Market price on any used vehicle will vary, we all know that.

If that car is exactly what you want from the pictures, then look at it and decide if it's in the condition you expect. If it is, then negotiate on-site. If not, enjoy the trip home.

If this is the car you want, do you want to pass it over for a few grand, only to look back and think, that was a mistake?

There is a lot of Validity to Mikes comment and I can relate.


And that is exactly why I own the car I currently do.
I upped my original budget, (by about 20k actually ) But I have ZERO regrets And now own the car of my dreams.

I actually proposed to the family to sell mine and buy something less expensive and pocket quite a bit of cash . But it got shot down by all,

My car,,,isnt for sale.

I've been in the resto repair business for many years. I see many things in the pic's that are cause for concern unless it's priced accordingly. Being at a stealership it's unlikely. I would pay more for a pristine car that is documented than buy one that needs 20-40k or more put into it. the more one looks, the more they see

That’s a really interesting catch. Hmm.

Problem is you can’t order these things and it lacks what I’d want in order to just force a deal. It’s close enough to ideal that I’d take it if it’s reasonable. The deal must be right or I’d end up way over where it should be if I overpay and then set about correcting things. It obviously has a laundry list of needs. I dont mind fixing Knick knacks if the major stuff is ok. All that to say do you have a number you’d put on it?

It’s interesting my estimate is lower than the few opinions here.

I immediately came up with a tight band I thought it was in as soon as I confirmed NOM. Then I found what they gave was a bit more. My initial impression was they followed the time honored method of making your money when you buy, so I figured they were in it far under market, and had it priced to take an offfer and move it quickly for first chance at a profit. It doesn’t help they Mickey. Moused up the exhaust worse than it started with. Day I called it was at a shop getting the exact wrong mufflers for a car like this. I doubt they were even bad, only “too quiet” for the seller, which really doesn’t figure on a flip.

Still I think this car has major potential for local shows and then logging miles like Mopar muscle should. It’s a rare car with eye candy for the casual person that might not appreciate the classy stuff. This is in your face and through the front door.

As you know, I missed my dream car. Damn circumstances. Sigh. Last I knew it basically doubled in price and I can’t justify anything like that, especially with the major repair it still needs.

There are plenty of Challengers out there. Keep saving up and when the one you want comes up, you will be ready to get it.

Car looks nice. Great Color
I sold 2 U code Challengers about 3 years ago.
Both were 4 speeds and numbers matching. I would say in similar condition.
I sold the cars for 60K

I know it was a few years ago and prices have bounced around a bit.

Good luck with you decision!

Thanks that’s an interesting data point.

Once I made the first call and asked a couple things, I pegged it at 60-62. My thinking was they scored it at 55-57 and priced it at 72.5 looking to get an offer around market to turn a quick buck. I went searching for comparables and to my surprise found where they paid 63. I think that’s all the money the car can pull with NOM as it knocks it off the list for the deep pocket collector, let alone the details it lacks. The main thing they’ve done is save me a haul bill and/or big trip(s) to go goose chasing.

The major draw for me is the CA body. Now that I’ve had one of those, I can’t go back. I had a 71 cuda from Texas and you can’t even put it in the same league as an untouched metal car.

I always feel we are on the same line of thought and to be honest didn't scrutinize the trim rings. My main black bottom comment was the front suspension being all blacked out didn't realize LA plant cars are black bottoms.
I guess the main thing is every car I buy ends up getting the RT Specialties treatment along with Mega Parts, BE+A and countless vendors on E-Bay.

So what I'm saying is if original sheetmetal and great colors go see it but expect to throw weekend projects at it if you're an anal type like myself.
Oh and I'll take non ## over bad metal anyday!!!

Ron

We be alike on that Ronnie
When Im looking at a done car. I go in planning I will have to spend a couple grand on the car detailing / bringing it up to my taste level.
Problem is you cant really factor that money in. Each buyers wants / desires / tastes are different.

But I will take an OEM metal car over matching numbers every time. Plus there is an off chance the oem block might turn up someday. A friend of mine in Ky just bought the original block to his sixbarrel super bird. And they had been separated for eons

If its truly all oem metal. That will make up ( to some degree ) for the non numbers drivetrain

Driving down the road you cant tell its the oem block , or not.
But I put a lot of comfort in knowing I dont have to worry about cheap panel replacement issues coming back out in a few years

Thats one of the things I really like about earlier cars. Its just a date code.
My cars engine is dead nuts perfect date code wise. And I could tell you its the oem block. But I know for a fact,,its not..

Chris ,

In my opinion,

Its close enough. Take a day trip to see the car .
And truly get a feel for what its worth TO YOU

I’ve been looking at current and past listings for days. Everything is

Junk
Too far to have bothered
Green
FK5
383
Junk
Overpriced to point of not mattering to me
Far from ideal for me for whatever reason
Oh and junk

Thanks for the replies. Any other guesses on value are certainly welcomed

Sometimes the best cars aren't advertised; they surface in a conversation here or through other networking.
That's how I stumbled onto my '69 RR, and I couldn't be happier with it.

Nice car but yeah the more you look the more you see - I just noticed the vinyl top, the seams should be running down the sail panels. I think I would rather have had this black 383 car instead, wasn't it priced somewhere around 60K?
https://www.myhotcars.com/1970-dodge-challenger-r-t-s-e-c-2120.htm

A friend of mine has a triple black RT/SE, 383, 727 loaded with everything. It's just sitting rotting away. I've tried several times to buy it or at least help him get it out of the weather, he's had it since 73 or so. Sad.

I’m no aficionado, but I think the se had it to the middle. Maybe a plant to plant thing?

BTW the top green one is for sale in the same ballpark, but I can’t take the acres of green and a real mucked over engine bay, even for the four speed. I’d look at a car like that if it were local and see if it wins me over or could be had on an offer. I used to take whatever came my way in colors, but I’m over it and settling isn’t going to cut it for me anymore.

AFAIK the ledger green tops and the gator grain tops were both narrow seam in 70 but the black tops and white tops were wide seam, SE or no. Pretty sure that green and white one in Hot Rod magazine had the top replaced, the SE emblems seem to be in a wacky location.

Wow that’s some down in the weeds stuff I’d never have considered. Thank you.

I guarantee there will be a lot more once you own it Check your PM's

I cleared some out.