I need valve spring/keeper/lock advice gents-

I bought a NIB Lunati Street Solid Roller, Grind # VSR92-VSR94-110 and lifters 72421-16, solid roller lifters.

It's nothing extreme, 237/243, .566/.578, LS110, .016 lash.

Lunati recommended:

Springs-73367-16
Retainers-757489-16
Locks-77127-16

None of these parts are available any more, so I need to source all 3 from another source.

The springs will be going on my Brodix B1-BS heads so they need to fit those. Street/strip car, nothing extreme, but I'll pay extra for parts that will last longer.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Not too dissimilar to PSI CT 1227 dual spring, use the appropriate locks and retainers. Like 15lbs more seat pressure at 1.950 per the listing, in real life, it might well be the same spring. S/F.....Ken M

If its a Street/strip application and depending on your installed height I would lean towards a Howards Pacaloy spring P/N 98543, Manley Lightweight H-13 Tool Steel Retainer P/N 23643TS-16(retainer adds +.100 to installed height), and any steel machined 10 degree locks for your specific valve diameter should work. You should verify your installed height with some old hardware to see if you will need and +.050, or std locks. The Tool steel retainers are lighter than chromoly but slightly heavier than Titanium but don't wear. I used this setup on my Edlebrock Hemi heads (but slightly adjusted the installed height) and is why I suggested this. For reference, I installed mine at 1.900 for a seat load 240 lbs. and with about .660 lift on my cam brings me to about 600 lbs open.
AG.

These are the specs I could find for the Lunati springs:

Dual Valve Springs
OD: 1.550"
Inner ID: .746"
Seat Load: 210 lbs/in @ 1.950
Open Load: 556 lbs/in @ 1.250
Coil Bind: 1.135"
Rate: 494 lbs/in
Set of 16

Those tool steel retainers sound like the ticket 👍.

Your way better off using more pressures, especially on the seats, than what you have listed.
I like and shoot for at least 250+ Lbs. on the seats and 750Lbs + over the nose regardless of the duration or lift
Solid rollers lifters are heavy and to keep the rollers wheel on the cam full time at the upper RPMs it needs at least that amount of pressure if you're going to rev it over 5000 RPM. I used 340 Lbs.. on the seats and 840 +Lbs. over the nose on my last E 85 bracket motor, I reset the valve lash once after warming the motor up and never saw any gain or loss of lash after that in the six years I raced that motor. I did check the lash warmed up two or three times a year to be safe :
I see a lot of pictures of solid roller cams with two distinct lines on the back sides of the lobes a little way down from the nose, those lines are cause by the roller wheels flying off the nose of the cam at the RPM they will start to float at,, and they hit the back side of the lobes and skids a very small amount before starting to roll again.
The impact smashes the needle bearings inside the roller wheels and they start failing

Cab,
Same principle apply to a street solid roller?

Is there a point where to much pressure causes problems?

I am getting ready to do a street solid roller on a stroked big block.Haven't determined which cam yet but have a couple in mind. I will likely defer to the engine builder for spring pressures as it is my first roller cam and haven't a clue.

Imo, I’m not a big fan of running “way more” spring load than is required to maintain valvetrain control for a particular combination.
But, I understand everyone has their own way of doing things.

I haven’t had a set of BS heads in the shop in several years, but my recollection is they have a nominal IH of 1.950 with std retainers and locks(like a Comp 741/611 retainer/lock combo).

I used Isky 9365’s on the last set I had here, for a bracket race engine with a .680 lift(before lash) cam.

Those ran trouble free for several years.

I was making dyno pulls to 7300 on the first engine those heads were put on.

I don't have much to add as far as spring specs just brand. My Dad has had comp spec the last two cam and spring combos for my 418" small block that we do drag week with.

I am currently running the comp 955-16, in the past I have run the comp 26089. Both with 270+ @.050 and .700ish lift solid roller with lots of street and 3500RPM highway miles.

I like to run smaller diameter springs/retainers to keep the weight down.

My hemi setup is-

262/262 .428/.421 lobe lift, measured .658/.612 at the valve.

Valve springs are 1.4" diameter PSI 1575, titanium locks and retainers. Intake 245 seat, 613 open. Exhaust 256 seat, 598 open.

2.25, 1.94 stainless ferrea valves. Trend .165 Single taper 3/8 to 7/16 pushrods

I shift it at 7,750.

I"m with Dwyane. No need to over spring. Give it what it needs for valve control. Solid Rollers and associated valve spring pressures are already harder on parts. No point in unnecessarly added to that. Your cam is not large, but the lobes move the valves pretty quickly for a street profile. It is similar to what I run on the street. Mine is slightly more agressive.

Similar to the Isky 9356 that Dwayne recommended, I'm running the Isky 9315, per his recommendation. The spring rate is similar to the Lunati 73367 you listed. I loosely call it a 200#/500# spring. (verses a 250/600 like a Comp 943 that is commonly used). I have CNC ported Eddy heads with a 2.19 valve and shift at 6,700 rpm without issue. If you are planning to shift much higher than that, consider something like the 943, IMO.