I need valve spring/keeper/lock advice gents-

I bought a NIB Lunati Street Solid Roller, Grind # VSR92-VSR94-110 and lifters 72421-16, solid roller lifters.

It's nothing extreme, 237/243, .566/.578, LS110, .016 lash.

Lunati recommended:

Springs-73367-16
Retainers-757489-16
Locks-77127-16

None of these parts are available any more, so I need to source all 3 from another source.

The springs will be going on my Brodix B1-BS heads so they need to fit those. Street/strip car, nothing extreme, but I'll pay extra for parts that will last longer.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Not too dissimilar to PSI CT 1227 dual spring, use the appropriate locks and retainers. Like 15lbs more seat pressure at 1.950 per the listing, in real life, it might well be the same spring. S/F.....Ken M

If its a Street/strip application and depending on your installed height I would lean towards a Howards Pacaloy spring P/N 98543, Manley Lightweight H-13 Tool Steel Retainer P/N 23643TS-16(retainer adds +.100 to installed height), and any steel machined 10 degree locks for your specific valve diameter should work. You should verify your installed height with some old hardware to see if you will need and +.050, or std locks. The Tool steel retainers are lighter than chromoly but slightly heavier than Titanium but don't wear. I used this setup on my Edlebrock Hemi heads (but slightly adjusted the installed height) and is why I suggested this. For reference, I installed mine at 1.900 for a seat load 240 lbs. and with about .660 lift on my cam brings me to about 600 lbs open.
AG.

These are the specs I could find for the Lunati springs:

Dual Valve Springs
OD: 1.550"
Inner ID: .746"
Seat Load: 210 lbs/in @ 1.950
Open Load: 556 lbs/in @ 1.250
Coil Bind: 1.135"
Rate: 494 lbs/in
Set of 16

Those tool steel retainers sound like the ticket 👍.

Your way better off using more pressures, especially on the seats, than what you have listed.
I like and shoot for at least 250+ Lbs. on the seats and 750Lbs + over the nose regardless of the duration or lift
Solid rollers lifters are heavy and to keep the rollers wheel on the cam full time at the upper RPMs it needs at least that amount of pressure if you're going to rev it over 5000 RPM. I used 340 Lbs.. on the seats and 840 +Lbs. over the nose on my last E 85 bracket motor, I reset the valve lash once after warming the motor up and never saw any gain or loss of lash after that in the six years I raced that motor. I did check the lash warmed up two or three times a year to be safe :
I see a lot of pictures of solid roller cams with two distinct lines on the back sides of the lobes a little way down from the nose, those lines are cause by the roller wheels flying off the nose of the cam at the RPM they will start to float at,, and they hit the back side of the lobes and skids a very small amount before starting to roll again.
The impact smashes the needle bearings inside the roller wheels and they start failing

Cab,
Same principle apply to a street solid roller?

Is there a point where to much pressure causes problems?

I am getting ready to do a street solid roller on a stroked big block.Haven't determined which cam yet but have a couple in mind. I will likely defer to the engine builder for spring pressures as it is my first roller cam and haven't a clue.

Imo, I’m not a big fan of running “way more” spring load than is required to maintain valvetrain control for a particular combination.
But, I understand everyone has their own way of doing things.

I haven’t had a set of BS heads in the shop in several years, but my recollection is they have a nominal IH of 1.950 with std retainers and locks(like a Comp 741/611 retainer/lock combo).

I used Isky 9365’s on the last set I had here, for a bracket race engine with a .680 lift(before lash) cam.

Those ran trouble free for several years.

I was making dyno pulls to 7300 on the first engine those heads were put on.

I don't have much to add as far as spring specs just brand. My Dad has had comp spec the last two cam and spring combos for my 418" small block that we do drag week with.

I am currently running the comp 955-16, in the past I have run the comp 26089. Both with 270+ @.050 and .700ish lift solid roller with lots of street and 3500RPM highway miles.

I like to run smaller diameter springs/retainers to keep the weight down.

My hemi setup is-

262/262 .428/.421 lobe lift, measured .658/.612 at the valve.

Valve springs are 1.4" diameter PSI 1575, titanium locks and retainers. Intake 245 seat, 613 open. Exhaust 256 seat, 598 open.

2.25, 1.94 stainless ferrea valves. Trend .165 Single taper 3/8 to 7/16 pushrods

I shift it at 7,750.

I"m with Dwyane. No need to over spring. Give it what it needs for valve control. Solid Rollers and associated valve spring pressures are already harder on parts. No point in unnecessarly added to that. Your cam is not large, but the lobes move the valves pretty quickly for a street profile. It is similar to what I run on the street. Mine is slightly more agressive.

Similar to the Isky 9356 that Dwayne recommended, I'm running the Isky 9315, per his recommendation. The spring rate is similar to the Lunati 73367 you listed. I loosely call it a 200#/500# spring. (verses a 250/600 like a Comp 943 that is commonly used). I have CNC ported Eddy heads with a 2.19 valve and shift at 6,700 rpm without issue. If you are planning to shift much higher than that, consider something like the 943, IMO.

How is the longevity on the Ti retainers and locks?

Not really sure. Not all titanium parts are created equal. These locks/retainers are Xceldyne. 575-TL which is TI 17. More expensive than commonly used 6Al-4V

(I also recently had CHE precision make me TI 17 retainers for my F355)

I put it together 5 years ago. Checked lash for the first time a couple months ago and lash was a few thou loose. (.010 spec from cam motion)

Everything appeared to be the same but I didn't take it apart and measure.

Really don't understand why so many people stick with the 1.55 diameter stuff.

Smaller diameter/less mass is easier to control. So even at the same seat/open pressure a spring/lock/retainer that's lighter will be much less prone to loft/bounce.

I would say two primary reasons…….
1- cost: for a milder street type build(depending on the cam) you can have good reliability with a spring/retainer/lock combo that’s in the $400 range.

With the smaller diameter springs and associated titanium hardware, it’s often double that, or more.

2- there are still a ton of spring options in the 1.54-1.58 diameters.

I have a 278/282 roller with .660 net.lift in my 440 source headed 511. It has a 6800 chip, shift it around 6300ish. I am using Isky 9915 without issues. They are set up around 230 closed/570open if I am remembering correctly. So far everything looks and measures good.

Next question, looking at the Isky springs is there any advantage to using the Endurance Plus set?

Also I'm going to need a pushrod length checking tool, is there one that is recommended over any other? Was planning on ordering pushrods from Smith bros.

The Isky “plus” springs upgrade the outer to the “tool room” material.

I had a long discussion with Howards about springs when building my 470 a couple years ago. For a solid roller, as a rule of thumb they like to see 1lb per .001 lift. So for a .650 lift cam, the want to see 650 lbs open pressure. Luke at Howard’s told me: “we know guys that run less than that with no trouble reported, but we KNOW the cam will be happy with that spec.”

I have had more than one Smith Bros pushrod fail in my racing career (1964 to now), no failures from any of the many sets of Manton's pushrods (951-245-6565) I've had built and used
Call both of them and ask about the price including the shipping, size and time frame
Identical set of pushrods (same length, wall thickness and ends) from both Manton's and Smith Bros. on a DTS engine dyno in Klamath Falls several years ago with no other changes I saw a 8 HP gain at 5000 RPM and above with the Manton's
I had that same motor on a different Studka engine dyno in Madras, OR three weeks earlier and one of the custom built Smith Bros pushrods broke in half at 5600 RPM breaking the lifter tie bar and bending the other pushrod beside it and allowing both solid roller lifter to turn in their lifter bore gouging the cam and hurting both lobes I took both of those pushrods back to Smith Bros and found out that they had not made those pushrods like I order them, 3/8 wall diameter, .120 wall thickness, heat treated with harden ends for high RPM drag racing, not street pushrods with stock type hydraulic lifters. I found out that they had made them with .083 wall thickness and non heat treated stiff wall race tubing
Hence me switching to Manton's after that

Copy.

Is that worth another $100? Increased spring life I assume?

They are endurance rated spring so I would say yes they are worth it. I have used them also and had good success.
Typically what I do is make a spreadsheet with all the springs I think I like and have the loads mapped out with the installed height to fully open based on the cam being used. In most the spring will be happier if you adjust your installed height so that the spring is about .050" from coil bind. They are much more stable that way. Also in my spreedsheet I will have whatever retainers I think are a best fit for the springs, and sometimes you may want to mix/match parts to get the best fit. With all that said, if you want to run tool steel retainers, it may limit your spring selection down some. For the Isky 9365 Plus or SP, Manley Tool steel 23672TS-16 retainers should work.
AG.

Related question, is anybody stocking the melonized distributor gear/shaft?

We always run PSI or PAC valve springs on most of our builds. One thing we learned over the years and thousands of engines is to thoroughly clean and wipe down the springs and do not touch them bare handed during cleaning and assembly process. Ones finger prints and body oils will causing rusting issues over time with condensation and causes stress areas for breakage. Many will doubt and not believe, but with 10's of thousands of dyno R&D hours. We have proved this over the years.

I got one from Hughes last May. It was in stock when I ordered it and I got it promptly.

I think I got mine from them mid-summer, and had to wait for it.