Who knows what about the process? I've heard it's no good, paint will fall off when repainted. Also that the baking soda used is similar to road salt in composition just pulverized.
Is it a good way to strip a car body? If those are true I don't think I want it.
How long would it take to do a truck cab bed doors and fenders that are currently seperate pieces? Approximately cost in Chicago area? I know of a place in Lockport that used to do this, haven't talked to them in years .. dunno if they're still there. And a place by Boswell IN that sand blasts but I dunno exactly what process(es) he offers. I'd have to take a run by either for more info. Think I found a guy a few miles from me as well, still checking out that lead.
I'm looking at going back to a "gen 1 (damn I hate that label) D or W 250. Have a couple of options for it.
Between my son and I we have a whole 2wd in pieces with a complete rust free body... 83 frame 90 cab 91 bed etc that were looking to put together but no 2 panels are the same color, most have 2-3 coats of paint etc.
Other option is in looking west for a rust free one already together with original paint. I have been talking to sellers of a couple of 4x4 versions out west.

I've stripped whole body panels with those 3M paint stripper wheels and a drill. Makes a big ol dusty mess, but if you want to save money that is the way to do it. You could do a lot of it yourself if your willing to get really dirty for a few days. Blasting is faster, but either way plan on spending a lot of time getting all the dust and media particles out of every hidden location or it will end up in your paint job when the air from the paint gun hits it.

There are a couple places here that do media blasting and powder coating, and one of them no longer does vehicle sheet metal blasting when a family member inquired about it last year. Too many complaints about warping so they stopped offering it. I think they use some type of plastic media pellets? It's black and green "stuff" whatever it is.

My paint rep was dead set against soda - it leaves a film that messes with adhesion if not removed.
We always used a good ol' D-A sander with 80 grit and a fairly careful touch to avoid digging in; messy, but it works well.
Used aircraft stripper a few times (very messy, toxic, eats everything) but I don't really care for it.
I did have a guy "sandblast" my '63 wagon, but he had a very careful approach, a greyish media, and it didn't warp a thing.
It sound to me like a D-A job on that truck - just take your time over a few days - and wear a respirator, latex gloves, and a shoot suit.

Patrick took his Barracuda to a place by Indy and had it chemical dipped. He was very happy with it, but you had to shoot primer on it quickly before it flash rusted.

I don't think it was real cheap.

I've heard about the chemical dip idea before. I don't think im gonna do that.
I have a seperate cab bed doors fenders hood and core support that are all different colors. And all rust free. Want to strip it before I paint and assemble it

I had the floor soda blasted in a 68 GTS but already had a headliner installed, so he said he would tape off the inside of the roof. Guess what, he didn't and ruined the headliner! Then the car sat for a year before getting back on it after the floor was painted and the paint came off the floor in sheets! Never again. Dry Ice blasting seems to be the way to go nowadays, chemical stripping is expensive and you have to e-coat to make sure the stuff doesn't keep on working as the car sits, if the acid is not neutralized you will have problems...

Baking soda (bicarbonate soda) is NOT road salt - [censored] told you that ?!?!? It is an "inert" chemical. As such it needs to be washed off with a detergent before any paint can be applied. How hard is that. Flash rust - sure. The same will happen (worse) on a sandblasted surface. And any car that's been "dipped" is always sprayed with a rust inhibitor afterwards. And guess what, it needs to be washed off too. Paint stripper ?? Well there are horror stories about it also - getting inplaces that it isn't cleaned out of well enough and causes issues later on.

There is no "perfect" solution. But there are pros out there who know how to do thier job. Talk and listen to them.

FWIW I dipped my 69 RR. I would never do that again ! Dipping is awesome, just not on anything with inner and outer panels or weld seams !!

Put a little vinegar on baking soda and you will find out how "inert" it is.

Media comes in all kinds/grits and is used for different things. You don't have to use "soda". Ask what kind media the blaster offers and what you want done then go from there.

Crushed walnut shells works pretty good as a media for blasting off paint. I had the front of my Duster blasted since it was just impossible to clean up by hand. The guy who blasted it also hit it with a primer.

Slow but it doesn't damage the metal AND it has to be washed off with a strong soap. Then there’s ONLY METAL. Once done spray with OSPHO

Like with sand blasting, trying to get the sand out afterwards, Soda blasting also flushes paint and grime into every nook and cranny. This will cause paint failure as Soda has a high Ph caustic content thus making the paint fail and bubble.

Exactly! That is why dry ice is still the best product, it just goes away once used... GOOGLE IT!

i can't afford to paint anything, so i just use spray bombs...........
just kidding guys !
paint and materials are SO expensive these days, so chose VERY wisely how you strip paint and prep after stripping !

That doesn't address the "flushes paint and grime into every nook and cranny" issue. We used to use CO2 blasting to clean parts in the semiconductor plant I worked at. They still needed a solvent wipe down afterwards to clean the residual stuff off.

There really is no 100% clean blasting option, just various different issues to address and you need to decide which issues bother you least.

My SIL has an old Franklin stove in his shop. Works but is crusty, he wants to clean it up. He's going to use a wire wheel. Me? I would disassemble it, sand blast it, blow it off, paint it and reassemble. Why? Because sand blasting is cheapest and the clean up issue is not much of one in this case since it will be disassembled. But I will tell you that I hate the jack wagons that blast carbs with sand or soda.

The OP said the vehicle is already striped down and parts separated. IMO, if that was the case I would find a good local sandblasting company and have them do it. I good sandblaster, one who knows what they are doing, can minimize body/panel damage and get it done quickly and cheaply .

I had my car soda blasted over 10 years ago and have not had any adhesion problems with the paint. I chose it because I thought it was it was less risky versus potential panel warpage using sand. It will not remove rust or body filler. In my experience it did not disturb the surface of the steel which was great for me as I was not able to prime the car immediately and it did not develop any significant rust bloom. Because of this I sanded the bare steel prior to priming for good adhesion. Prior to sanding I blew out all the residual soda and wiped the car down with solvent. There was no product remaining to “neutralize”. Worked for me.

Agree. I've stripped miles of paint off with a locked in DA. Be careful around body lines

That won't get in the corners very well like behind the drip rail on a D150 cab ..and other places.

Two or three inch fuzzy Roloc discs can get in some pretty tight spots. Could get one of those cheapy hand held sandblasters and use silica sand to carefully hit those hard-to-get places as well.