any cheap [is there such a thing ? ] 383 build ideas that would put my heavy charger in the mid to low 12's ? it now runs 13.99-14.10 @ 98mph in the 1/4.
current specs : stock 906 heads, racer brown ssh25 cam [in straight up], DP4B dual plane intake with 850 T-quad, reworked factory distributor set at 16 degrees initial and 38 degrees total advance, 1 3/4" hookers into a full length 3" exhaust, 727 with 2600 stall B&M converter and TF-2 shift kit, 3.91 sure grip rear, and 29" rear tires on 8" steel wheels.
i would prefer to keep the T-quad that is on there now.
any suggestions ? is it even possible ?
rough cam idle is not a problem.
TIA for those that are way smarter than me !

I read about a really good 383 build the other day but I can't remember where. I think Muscle Motors did it. (RIP) I think a stroker kit and Trick Flow heads/cam is the answer. You can get nearly 600 hp. It will be up to you to get it to hook up and leave.

I found the article. They got 559 hp with less cam and heads than the Trick Flows offer.

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chrysler-383-big-block-mopar-for-the-masses/

The 440 Source kit takes the 383 to 496. They used ported Stealth heads which I like because they look pretty much stock.

https://store.440source.com/Stroker-Kits/products/3/

The Trick Flows have larger valves so I think they want minimum bore of 4.32" but if you go .060" over you will be 4.31", probably fine but there are small things you could do to make it work if that's what you wanted.

Rickseeman is correct 4.32 is the minimum bore TF recommends. I am running a .030 over 383 (4.28 bore )with the Trick Flow 240 heads. My deck height is 9.965, .045 head gasket, and net lift is .625. This combination works, but the higher the lift the more likely you are to have potential valve to cylinder wall clearance issues. As Rick points out @.060 over (4.31 bore) you should be good.

I would treat it just like a 12 second 440 that uses 906 heads. RPM iintake, 235-240@.050 cam. Then add gear, conveter, and shift rpm to make up the difference.
Doug

What's the budget, and how much converter & gear ratio are you willing to live with ?

The Wallace Calculators are a handy tool to provide some guidance on what you need-I plugged in 12.00 for 4,000 lbs and it calculated a little over 400 HP at the wheels which would would put you 500 at the crank. Those numbers are on the high side so to target 450 is reasonable to get what you want and very reasonable to make with a 383. There is no real need for a stroker, just cam, headers, intake and carb. I have followed Dwayne’s recipe in the link below and it is a fairly straightforward build. Like others have said the need for a gear and converter is necessary to get you to where you want.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/bb/25.html

I would start with some well ported heads (preferably aluminum but flow is flow). Then a better and higher stall converter. If that didn't get you in the 12"s I would be shocked.

Don't know the specs on that cam but I would degree it to be sure where it is.

Is it a 0/positive deck 383 or an in the hole one? Just wondering about the compression. My buddy has a 68 super bee and a 70 cuda both 383 hp cars both 3.91 4 speeds the the 68 is/was (in hibernation)a completely different animal.

For bolt-ons....you could try a 3310 Holley and put a 1" open spacer or more. (phenolic) Limit the curve of the dist to 6 degrees and crank some timing into it ASAP...all-in by 2000. A bigger gear will help as well! See what that gets you. If that inspires you for more find a 440 block or a 400 block and build a cheap '451' good valve job blended on factory heads or buy some aluminum. Put out some feeler wanted ads. It's pretty easy to make 500ish HP in any number of recipes. The CID is really going to help move that heavy car. Especially with mild gears and converters.

If it’s primarily a street car, and you’d like it to remain street friendly, your best bet is to get the engine in the 500” range.

If that’s way too big of a chunk of $$$ to spend, if the current heads are not ported, I’d look into upgrading that situation, swap to a SFT cam, more stall(like 3800+), rpm intake, and more gear.
It still won’t likely run low 12’s, but at that point “iiwii”.

The in between step is apply the 383 upgrade formula to a 440, but keep the 3.91’s.

i have considered all of the above, and staying with the 3.91 gear and 29" tires, plus staying with my worked 850 T-quad, my thoughts are these.
a good set of aluminum heads instead of reworking the 906's. this will/can increase compression using the factory bottom end, plus will be cheaper in the long run, cost wise.
going to a good 3800-4000 stall converter.
changing to a larger SFT cam.
this should get me to low 13's - high 12's. [?]
provided when the engine is pulled the bottom end is [somewhat] ok in respect to the crank and rod bearing wear, and the crank journals look good.
if this doesn't pan out, i have both a good 400 [actually i have two] and a 440 on the shelf that i would use to build a stroker, using a 440 source kit.
i don't believe stroking the 383 would be cost or result effective, compared to stroking the other two blocks.

I'm getting ready to assemble a 383 that I was building for my H code 1969 Dart GTS 4 speed car, I used a stock forge steel 440 stick crankshaft, and had it offset ground to BB Chevy journal size with a 3.90 stroke and bought some Speed Master (Chineze, Australian?) brand H beam forged 5140 steel H beam rods that are 6.700 long along with some KB (Icon) shelf forge piston and 906 heads with bigger valves and bowl work to help increase the air flow.
I'm planning on dyno testing it with the stock intake and AVS carb to see if it will make 1.0 or higher HP per C.I. Not sure on the cam yet, not real big though : luck:

What muffler are you running ?

If you're wanting to build a good stroker motor forget using the 383 and 440 blocks They are both thin in the main webbing
The 400 blocks are a lot better core to start with as long as the cylinder wall thickness are check before boring them

the original [when they first cam out, many many years ago] two chamber "blomasters" are on it now.
they will be changed out for something else in the future, but i am unsure what they will be.

i was really leaning to the 400 block Cab.
i have two on the shelf to pick from, so i'm hoping one or both, will meet the cylinder wall thickness test[s].