I dont have any pics but the ARC 8000 kit was very easy to install and is a very neat and clean set up. I have had the same unit in 2 different cars and it has been rock solid reliable. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another if needed.

FWIW we have been grounded EVERYTHING to the battery(floating)for a few years and will never go back to chassis grounds again.

I have used K&R panels many times. It is a good budget option.

thank you sir !

Al, not fully understanding your comment on grounding. I definately want to get that right.
My battery is in front of the radiater. So my guess is, with less distance to all componants, that may work better than a rear mount battery? Still, i want to go direct, and i want to understand how to avoid problems with poor grounds.

I did the same as Al and ran an open "Horseshoe" of 8mm square ground cables, from the trunk mounted batteries to 5 ground "Bars" in the car. One in the trunk, two under the dash (L&R) and 2 up front near the headlights, again left and right hand side. Each bar has about 10 connection points. I also run a filter capacitor on the data logger supply AND the MSD Grid supply. Doing this ensures an equal ground for everything (within reason) without the potential ( see what I did there ) for the voltage to differ between sub systems. Sure it's heavier and uses more wire but it reduces the risk of any that issues that can be caused caused by the above, especially on Data loggers and ign systems. Heads have an earth cable to the block and another thing I did was run a separate earth cable for the starter (welding cable), that made a noticeable difference. The batteries are still earthed to the chassis as well but the chassis isn't used as the ground for any circuit.
HTH's

Same kit I purchased for my son’s Coupe. Might be selling it and going back to their old school switch panel. Been trying to sell the old one cheap and no takers. Might as well use it.

Everyhting in the car ground directly to the battery. Mostly through bulkhead connectors or distribution blocks that go directly to the battery. Every component is grounded that way. No cables on heads, no cable on starter. Just every wire for every relay or switch in the car is grounded directly the battery. The igniton and racepak stuff is as well both receive direct battery voltage and grounds from the battery. Rahter than relying on the chassis engine etc. You wont see near the voltage drop this way.

I ranan arc panel for about 20yrs. I really liked there kit. It just didn't have what I wanted this time around.

A friend recommended the Leash Electronics (https://www.leashelectronics.com/) stuff to me to do my own car, it's something I'll be looking at in the new year. I'm just posting so I can follow along, electricity is witchcraft as far as I'm concerned :-D

Agree with the floating ground.

Well, i am commited. Just ordered a K&R kit and six fused relays. Grounding wire will be fine braided welding cable and terminals by the battery and in the footwell area of rhe passenger side. The only ground i will leave on the chassis is for the primer plus pump, which is not critical. I am thinking a dialectric Loctite of some sort might be a good idea ?
Thanks Doug (DVW) for the excellent photos and info, and thanks to all that have contributed. Now the fun begins. I will take pictures of my current mess and will be looking for sugestions of where to put switch panel and fuse block, etc

Greg, I run the K&R stuff in both of my cars. Love it. Super simple to install.

Thanks,
Casey FJ

My mess

Last one

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
not as bad as some i have seen and straightened out.
it will be work for sure, but just take your time, use quality crimping tools, and you will be pleased and proud of what you will accomplish.
if you don't own quality crimping tools, you should buy or borrow some before you start.

Looks like fun

I feel your pain.

,I guess I like everything tiddy.

K&r comes with wire ends and heat shrink precut, so easy

YAAH
looks like a snakes din to me