Not many options here, i understand, but once i dent the tube, i lose the benefit of the 1/2" tube.

.060 is recommended but .020-.030 is fine.

Don’t just dent the pipe, make oval shape, a press or vice will work, heat to cherry red then squeeze it. An oval or squareish pipe will flow same as a round one

Yes, was just thinking that. Like oval exhaust same area.

Come to think of it. That is what I did was oval the tube in a bench vise while cherry red. I didn't just ding the tube.

Here is an idea to modify the factory Bill Mitchell part, so you can move it a little.
Use locktite on the bolt threads, and a touch of some sealant (not RTV) on the flat part after milling off the round part sticking out (into the block).
I might even be able to mill an O-ring recess after milling off that part, so sealant would not be needed.

instead of milling that completely off, i could shave a little off one side and drill the holes bigger. I will have to contour the inside a bit for even flow. That might get me enough, if not, a little squeeze in the vise should do it. Thats.

I agree don't grind it. Mine cracked after a few years in stock stroke and condition.

No kidding, it cracked on the thread? That is the thicker part of the tube.

Finished. I will mail this today (Fri). Give it a try.

Any worries about it "sliding" over, now that there's nothing to register it?

Thanks Jim, i will certainly give that a try. I think Indian Head gasket shellac would seal and hold that a long time.

hi,

you are over thinking it if you dimple the tube .060" there should be plenty of oil still .

i have 1 449 that the owner has ran with a stock street hemi oil pan 3/8 tube for 7 years without any refrish of engine .

verry consistant 10,40 1/4 mile .

my hemi runs 60 /65 psi hot 10/30 valaoline .

New adaptor on the way by 440Jim. No dimpling required.

Yes

They crack like that from not enough thread engagement . The pipe thread used is tapered when you just grab 3-4 threads your sill on the part of the tube that is on the minor dia of the thread die, so its cut deeper into the tube, you need to open up the thread in the block with a tap to get more thread engagement.

Thanks for that a will do. Mine was only getting 4 threads.

with my Milodon pickup I actually used a taper die to recut the thread as it wouldnt go more than about 1 1/2 turns . Once recut went in a lot further . Did this on 2 different road race pan pickups . One went into my World block one into a stock block .
Almost seemed like it was cut parrallel thread .

Tex

Will recut that adaptor when i get it.

x2. I'd have no problems denting one but I wouldn't want to grind it in an area where it has the potential to crack. That's a lot of leverage from the end of the pickup to the threads for it to crack over time due to vibration.