Me personally , Im a huge fan of the Winchester grey.
Especially with black vinyl top and interior and blk billboard

IMO the original colors or even B5 wouldn't be bad .

That said, even without a tag to prove it. I'M not a fan of color changed cars

I agree with Bill above. That Winchester Grey ROCKS but I'm partial to B5 too cause my 71 Challenger is B5. Those are the 2 BEST colrs in the Mopar lineup.

My opinion and $3.50 will get you a cup of coffee, but I'm in a sharing mood :
I like EB5 much more than GB5, but it's a pretty common color.
I'm increasingly fond of the rarer colors, like the light pastel blue (B2?), Winchester Grey, B7.
There's plenty of red, orange & yellow 'Cudas out there, but GY3 (Curious Yellow) is a knockout.
Further afield is A4, which would be interesting, I think.
One consideration may be material prices, where single-stage non-metallic colors have a cost advantage.

B7 done right looks stunning. There is/was a lift off hood 69 Super Bee around these parts years ago in that B7 color, and it was a show stopper You could see the fabric on your shoelaces in the reflection down the sides of it. Only drawback to the darker hues is chasing swirl marks and dust like people who own black cars have to deal with.

Thanks all with the color opinions , I am only the grunt and will paint whichever color the owner decides . I think it has to be one of those scenarios that when he looks at the car it really calls out to him how he wants it to look when its in his driveway.

Hopefully he will chime in here and let us know the direction we are headed.

Looking at the small stuff in the trunk that needs attention and starting on the metal repair I find the trunk hinges must have been hyper extended and busted the welds at the gutter to hinge bracket. The jamb corners have had some metal work done and they used a lot of filler to shape the area and looked it. Time consuming to re work but absolutely needed for it to look/be right.

Reattached the hinge braces to the gutter and ground away the majority of the filler in the area, had to weld in some pin holes from previously compromised metal. the pics make it look worse than in reality

Found a new pair of holes in the fender well and installed the jack bracket. before and after of the shock bolt access hole.

Just a few more exploratory pics, Rear panel paint just about falls off the factory black , trunk bumper hump shows at least 6 coats of primers/paints over the og color, both front fenders have at least 1/8" thick filler slathered over their entire surface . We looked at the car a lot and it just seemed something was odd about it. The body lines of the car are too soft, the doors are pretty good, the quarters are good except for the lower sections in front and rear of the tires, I will be re-doing the lower rear quarters, Pass side will get the vertical part of a trunk extension, both sides will get outer lower skin patches. There is a bunch that needs to be corrected along the way but I am still impressed on how solid the car is. With the exception of the lower quarters, there is little to no clues of welded patches or through rust that was filled in anywhere. Seems the body guy just frosted the entire car with filler to block it down but didn't understand what a "Skim Coat" is

I've seen that before on a Jenson Interceptor years ago. Previous shop that worked on it coated the whole car with it and left up to 1/4 of filler on the car, and then painted right over it. Had to have been close to two cans of filler used to coat the whole car like that, and the metal underneath was in pretty good shape after it was all sanded back off. They even coated the whole roof, and there was nothing wrong with it. I don't get the logic behind it.

Also seen shops that will put new quarters on a car and then put thick filler over the whole thing anyways. If you did a decent job you should only need a little bit of filler around the weld seams to hide any small ripples that occur during welding.

Speaking of body filler hackery I ran across this yesterday. Talk about a mess.

https://youtu.be/wxnN1hzORco?si=iwQLNDYeoSPp-unV

Opened the proverbial can of worms started with some exploratory to see what I'm working with and found what we we hoping was not going to be there. Average of 3/16" filler over homemade poorly fabbed patches. Started blocking down with 36grit and didn't find base metal, so I broke out a grinding disk and went at it. After a few minutes I got impatient and cut into it a bit, found how deep it went and knew the quarter needed to get cut off. I found the old welded seam and planned my cuts accordingly, I want to preserve as much factory metal as possible.

more

While I had the tools in hand went to the driver side to see how bad it was, found about the same. I am glad the original driver inner is solid enough to use for position and reference. The outer quarter was a bit worse as it had got crunched by the marker light and needs to be replaced or get some re working.

i will be replacing the driver inner but it is being used for fitment and reference.

Here are the removed panels, look closely you can see the hand formed bends in the sheet metal to make the "body lines"

AMD inner trunk extension, only used the drop trim to fit only what I removed .

welded up

received the other patches, AMD driver inner, Both outer are Goodmark from different sources, packaged very loose and both got tweaked around the bumper area. I will not be using the complete panel so it doesn't matter much to me. Did the finish fab on the trunk gutters and skim coat of kitty hair on them.

The little patch that was done next to the bumper was poorly done and they used filler for shape, figured the panel would be relieved when I cut it out. You can see it is out at least .080 higher than the patch. My patch after hammer dolly work and proper fitment and welding.

While getting the little patch done I had to address the body line a bit. The intersection of belt line and vertical corner section, there were some dings and flaws in the sheet metal that again they just overfilled to create shape. Blocking them down to get the filler down to minimal thickness. I use a very weak magnet
that gives me a feel for its depth without having fancy equipment It still needs a bit more attention when I block the remainder of the quarter. I probably removed 3/32" of filler thickness on and around the corner.