A fully charged battery should be 13.2 volts. Is your battery any good?

I installed the starter today and have a wire going from the solenoid start stud to the cabin of the car to check voltage. I started car and tester showed 10.4V min at the battery and inside was 9.64V at solenoid, the key worked. Ammeter was just above 10 before going for a 45 minute drive. Near 0 on positive side when got home, guessing it was due to the battery being charged while driving. 14.5V while driving on the cigarette plug in voltage meter, which is normal. Started with key after about 20 minutes of it sitting after the drive. Shut it off and tried it again in a couple minutes. Didn’t start 3 times and used bypass to get it started each time.


Voltage at solenoid was under 7V

____ no kidding. I think I told you that a week ago. No offense but, out of your last 3 posts, this is the only relevant information. And we already knew it. Now, seriously, find out where all that power is going before it burns the car down.




and test light on NSS out lit up when the no start happened. Started with key on 4th start. I am going to try to get to the bulkhead and see where the purple wire is and if it needs cleaned up.

Correct that voltage drop should be done while loaded but, based on previous readings, there's a load somewhere in the circuit even without the starter. I'm leaning towards burnt contacts in the ignition switch or the magic green at the bulkhead.

But, that's based on the OP measuring to ground vs an actual drop test. Drop testing is more tolerant of variation in system voltage vs testing to ground.

Still his .5 volt loss is concerning and needs investigation.

I really wish he'd do an actual voltage drop test from battery positive to crank signal. If we can confirm that drop exists (especially without the starter installed) then we know the problem is power supply related.

Note, I've literally spent more time in this thread asking for that specific test than it would take.

I can relate to that

Go into a holding pattern. I have to get back to work but can respond later.

Maybe start rereading the thread and take some notes.

And get colored pencils.

I can not physically get a multimeter probe end on the starter when it's installed.


_____ one reason why I said leave it out for now. But at this point you should have enough practice to do it in 5 minutes. It's in, so leave it alone.


Would this work: I have a wire from the starter to the inside of the car to check voltage at the solenoid. I can run a test wire with clips from the battery to the one end of the multimeter and the other end to the test wire in the car. That should be a battery to meter, meter to wire, wire to starter solenoid.


_____ yes, you absolutely can extend the meter leads and if this wire is on the same connection as the crank signal wire, that works fine. Yes, run an extension from battery positive. NOT NEGATIVE.


To avoid starting the car, can I just unhook the wire going to "BATT" on the HEI distributor cap?

____ yes, I mentioned that before

Would be easier than dropping the starter to avoid actual start up. But is it ok for the starter to run a few seconds and not start the car?


_____ won't hurt the starter as long as you don't grind away too long. 15 seconds is long enough. You just need it long enough to get a steady reading.


Then move it from positive post to negative post and try again correct?


_____ NO! Nowhere has anyone mentioned mentioned battery negative.


The test light set up on the NSS out is a tail light socket with 1157 bulb in it. It was bright when the no start with the key happened and low voltage at the starter. Bright as in seemed like the same as when it started.

_____ a light is merely a guide, a quick and dirty test tool. Not very accurate though.


I posted the headlights on results because nobody explained what "loading the circuit" meant and I thought maybe turning on other stuff would load it.

____ loading a circuit basically means operating it. Turning on the headlights loads the headlights circuit but has nothing to do with the starter.


I wasn't sure how to load the starter circuit without the starter in it. Is it basically just turning the key and sending signal to the starter? Holding it a few seconds?

_____ yes. But from previous readings you posted, there's a power loss even without the starter installed. Hence it might be possible to test the circuit without the starter. The starter is in, leave it alone.


Like I said, I'm not a mechanic or electrician so me not understanding how something works makes it difficult for me to get what results people are looking for. I compare it to Veterans talking military jargon and civilians looking at them like they have a third eye.

____ understood but, instructions were very simple and specific. More about this later.

A thought I had was to try this, but not sure if it would be a good test. The connector that goes on the NSS has a top and bottom female connector (one molded connector with 2 slots). Top is power (would have to verify it again) from the ignition and the other goes to the starter. Could I just move the connector down so the top female is on the bottom male and that leaves the top male tab open. Then hook the wire from the solenoid to that open tab? NSS should work if power is in top/out bottom or in bottom/out top from my understanding. That would be basically key to NSS, NSS right to starter. Bypassing bulkhead and original starter wire.


____ that's modifying the wiring and introducing more variables that will confuse the situation. Don't do it.


I get being frustrated with all kinds of extra info and going through it. I have to do that at work and it gets old fast. However, I look at it as the person is trying and they intend to do the right thing to avoid trouble and penalties. They don't understand the laws or get bad info, but we always try to work with them to make sure it's done right in the end. Same here.

____ sure but we've also tried to emphasize what should be done on not done.

What setting on multimeter would I use for battery + & - to starter?


____Posted earlier, use the lowest scale you have. We're looking for small voltages. And, it doesn't matter which meter lead goes where, we're concerned with the amount not the polarity. If you think about it, everything on this wire IS POSITIVE. Where would you hook up negative? There's nowhere to do so.

I understand checking voltage, but that’s a new one. What is it looking for since it’s not grounded?

____ a difference in the amount of voltage at 2 points on a wire.

Can I test NSS and wires to it same way to work from starter to bulkhead and ignition to bulkhead? Just asking so I understand it and can get the results for help.


_____ if I understand your question correctly, YES! That's the way it works. You want to test various points between the starter solenoid and battery positive. In this case you have an extension wire from the solenoid to inside the car so test that first.

Then test at the NSS which you have easy access to.

Then go to the next easiest place, whether it's the bulkhead or the ignition switch. Refer to the diagram.

At some point, your reading will drop to zero or very close to it. Your problem is between the zero point and the previous test point. This is where the diagram comes in as it's a map of where the electricity goes.