Was at the Brown County fair this weekend (grandkids always show their chickens and goats, many blue ribbons again) and in the Commercial Products building I met the originator of PROFleetCare, a rust preventive/containment coating service provider. I mentioned I had planned to use Krown products on my vehicles and eventually on my 56 pickup. He said he worked for Krown and helped them develop the oil/parafin wax spray, and eventually branched off himself to develop the PROFleetCare franchise. What make his service different is they come on site to your vehicle to apply the system. I'll be calling their local franchiser to apply the service on my Kia Sorento, it's only $185 which I think is well less than Krown. Although, I think Krown also puts the vehicle on a lift and sprays/coats the entire chassis.

Yea...I don't have a lift either. I really don't want his over spray, or the dripping of his excess application on my cement driveway either. I don't fit under my truck without lifting it up, don't see how anyone would be spraying or applying anything under my truck, or above my tires and wheels can do so if its sitting on the ground. I believe I would want them to coat the inner fenders, would seem pretty important if they are going to protect my truck. I sure wouldn't think it would be a very good job if they don't at least take the wheels off the truck. If the truck has the suspension hanging on a frame lift hoist, maybe you wouldn't need to take the wheels off.

I wonder how all that will work out?

I'll be finding out. Perhaps he has a heavy tarp to put on the surface and then put the vehicle over it to catch overspray/drips etc. I assume most of what he does with his mobile service for cars and pickups would be to spray inside body panels, fenders. But services like Krown actually put the vehicle on a lift and spray the entire chassis, suspension, chassis components. I've read that cars or pickups treated underneath with Krown look new underneath years and miles later.

as for garage floor protection when spraying the underside, the guys that spray my "bus" [minivan] with their "secret sauce" oil mix every year, just roll out your basic cheap clear plastic sheeting that come on those big, four foot wide rolls that unfold to 8 feet wide after you cut it to the length you need.
after spraying, they just roll up the sheeting and toss it in the trash. if more than one vehicle is scheduled for the day, all attempts are made to do them all at the end of the day, so they only need to roll out the plastic one time.
when done, they walk out on the grass at the side of the driveway and "wipe their shoes" before going in the office, or getting in the vehicle to move it out of the garage, even though they put down a clean piece of plastic in the vehicle to keep the floor "clean" of what little oil residue remains on their shoes.

So have you experienced good results on vehicles getting this type of treatment? Worth it? I'm thinking spending about $200 every three years for a treatment program that keeps the WI road salt rot from taking my vehicle bit by bit is worth it. That, or just replace your vehicle every five years. But I can't justify the money spent/lost with every vehicle change. If I like a vehicle I stay with it for well over 100,000 miles at least.

i bought the "bus" back in 2014.
it came from arizona to this area [Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania, home of "Punxsutawney Phill the Groundhog, the Prognosticator of Prognosticators"] in december of 2013, and the only rust was was a couple of brown paint blisters where that damn foam is on the bottom of the front fenders.
that rotten stuff traps dirt and moisture, and therefor, rust will show up no matter where the vehicle comes from.
since it arrived here, it was driven until sometime in january 2014, when the "death pin" holding the spider gears decided to exit the transaxle while the lady i bought it from was leaving a stop sign. this was due to the tiny bolt holding the "death pin" coming loose and falling out, thus causing the damage.
this was a recognized design defect, so when i bought a 2002 "bus" to rob the transaxle out of, i purchased a kit from trans-go from the local transmission shop, that contained two little stamped steel brackets that were designed to hold the "death pin" in place, retained by opposing ring gear to carrier bolts. i also bought a shift kit to install in the replacement at the same time. when i tore the replacement down to install the shift kit, i discovered the "death pin" retainers had already been factory installed, so i just removed the tiny retainer bolt and blue loctited it back in place.

anyway, i then had the "bus" oiled up every year since, paying attention to every place the factory [in their "infinite wisdome"] installed foam, and although i have yet to repair the front fender rust paint blisters, they have not gotten any bigger than when i first bought the vehicle.
although now oily and cruddy underneath, one can wipe the oily mess from the brake lines and see newish lines under the slime, so i would definitely say oiling the thing every year has been well worth the $100.00 my buddy charges !

Good enough testimony for me. I'd rather deal with an oily protectiove coating on everything than with parts rusting permanently together, or made unremovable because of corrosion. Everything I have had to deal with on my 2001 Dakota (bought used from a friend, its enitre life from new in WI) is corrosion related: oil pan, brake lines, steering shaft, caliper slide mounts, trailer hitch, body panels, gas tank mount straps (currently a cheapo ratchet strap redneck repair), bumpers, etc, etc, etc. Oh, and eventually the frame itself.

Just for your information,a couple of weeks ago I bought replacement gas tank straps from Orielly's for my 90 Dakota chassis under my 48 Plymouth coupe (probably the same straps under the Dakotas from 88-03.) They fit and looked like the original straps, except they were brand new. I ordered them at 10 am, and they were in the store by 4pm, cost was in the mid $30 range. The bolts were not available, but I bought a couple of the 3/8" "U" nuts (fit over the holes in the frame like the factory did it) and a piece of 12" long threaded rod and cut it to length for both bolts (3 1/4" studs originally). Add a couple nuts and a couple flat washers, and the entire gas tank strap system was new for under $40.

Pic are what they call U nuts.The first picture is of both sides the U nuts, the 2nd picture is with a bolt through the U nut. These pictures are 1/4" versions, but 5/16" & 3/8" versions are pretty common, and pretty cheap (@ 69 cents each) as well.

another option is a nutsert. i have used them in a bunch of sizes up to 1/2-13, and 12 amd 13mm.
however, you need a special tool to install them, [think giant rivet gun] plus room to maneuver the tool into position to use and then remove it.
if there is access to be able to use the "U" nuts, go with them. they also have the advantage of some slight "adjustability" in the hole they are installed in, being able to wobble around in the front/rear, side to side positioning of them, [or a combination of all] whereas a nutsert is where you drill the hole for installation, and if your retention device [strap or bracket] is off just a little, your only recourse for fit is to drill the retaining hole oversize or slot it.
with that said, nutserts [in my opinion] are way ahead in the visual appearance category.
quality items of each are very strong and long lasting methods of installing threads where welding in a "backing nut" is impossible or impractical.
just my life experience in using large amounts of each over close to 60 years playing with "biggy size" toys, and repairing an infinitesimal amount of screwed up female threads in all kinds of items from automotive to industrial to home.
your mileage and results will vary.

i used the U nuts for the fuel tank straps because that was what Dodge used when they built the truck. I simply replaced what was there already with new pieces.

Two words, Zero Rust.

So, according to the directions, "Apply to bare metal, rusty bare metal or to apply it to partially painted surfaces, remove the old finish to bare metal".

You want me to remove the paint from my truck, to put this stuff on to the bare metal?

I'm way past that point, and I'm not going back.

What they are talking about here something you do with an already street driven vehicle to make it last longer, in its assembled form.

As per the directions:

New Steel – Thoroughly clean all surfaces. For new Galvanized Steel, use a vinyl wash primer before applying Zero-Rust®.

Rusty Surfaces – Remove all loose scale and powdery rust. Thoroughly clean surface of any dirt, grease or other contaminants.

Partially Painted Surfaces – When repairing a painted surface that has deteriorated totally remove old paint.

Only remove the "deteriorated" paint. This is usually at the point between the rust and the good paint.