Like poorboy said, is the shift linkage good and in adjustment? I have a Buick that sometimes doesn't start in Park, but will if you pull the shifter further up. It will also start if you play around with the shifter in neutral.

Two possibilities, the plastic bushings in the shift linkage are worn/missing and the remote possibility that the shift shaft has come loose in the rooster comb which will result in lost motion.

it's a Monte carlo John

So just to clarify a couple things

The NSS is on the shifter in this application?

Your intermittent no crank still happened with the NSS bypassed?

Does this only happen hot? Or will it happen on first starts too?

This really sounds like typical GM solenoid failure, but iirc you've already replaced it.

I'd make a high draw test light (generic turn signal socket and 1157 bulb with long leads and alligator clips) and put the bulb where you can see it. Test for power at the solenoid and work your way back to the ignition switch. The semi permanent installation will be present when the problem occurs, not hours later after a tow call. Sometimes with intermittent problems you have to do things like this.

Happens hot, cold, after storage, no rhyme or reason it seems like.

I have not replaced the starter or solenoid, but have removed it to mount a new battery cable to it. Connections there all seem good by looks. I now live alone and sometimes getting someone to turn the key so I can get a multi meter or test light on it is hard because there aren't a lot of people in the neighborhood I can ask and they come right over. I never thought of a test socket set up. I get power to the NSS every time I test it. However, I don't think I tested it when it wouldn't crank. I will keep a test light in the car as a reminder to check that next time. The NSS is in the console on the shifter so I can get to that easily to test it. I appreciate the input and keeping it simple for me.

What happened to my comment recommending that he post his question on a GM, Chevy or Monte Carlo site?

To help eliminate the starter and solenoid jump the NSS plugs. That will allow it to start in any gear. If it works then the starter is ok and the problem will lie in the NSS or linkage adjustment. You could also hold the key in the start position and move the shifter between park and neutral. If it tries to start then you have a linkage adjustment issue.

To help eliminate the starter and solenoid jump the NSS plugs. That will allow it to start in any gear. If it works then the starter is ok and the problem will lie in the NSS or linkage adjustment. You could also hold the key in the start position and move the shifter between park and neutral. If it tries to start then you have a linkage adjustment issue.

Negative on just keeping it in the car. It needs to be hooked up full time.

By the time you gather things together the symptom might disappear.

Solenoids are a well known weakness on the older GM starters

I could run the wire and test socket and leave it set up in the car, but a few questions:

____ the light should be someplace you can see it when the problem occurs, zip tied under the dash would be fine.


Would an alligator clip hold while driving?

____ good ones should have enough spring tension to grab and hold for awhile. Try an actual hardware store vs harbor freight. If you can find insulated ones even better.


I have a button for a wire going from the fuse box to the solenoid from the previous owner. Should the clip go on the original wire or would the stud with both wires be fine? I am thinking it should test fine if on the stud, but want to make sure before I get under it and get it hooked up.

____ for a starting point to test, I wouldn't use the questionable previous owner stuff. I'd connect to the stud on the starter that gets the crank signal. Other end connected to battery negative. As things progress, the connection points will change and at some point you'll need something to backprobe the bulkhead connection.


Sorry for all the stupid questions, but this is frustrating because it gives me joy driving the car and when it doesn't start, that ruins the enjoyment.

12.4 volts at the solenoid is a problem. You need battery voltage there.

What is the battery voltage across the terminals (not the cables)?

You should have the same at the starter.

Time for voltage drop testing. It would be best to have a helper but if this drop is present testing by yourself, it should be easy to find.

Meter set to a low voltage scale, one end to battery positive, the other to starter battery connection. Voltage should read zero. Now crank, what does meter show?


Mov3 battery end of meter to negative, meter should read same as battery. Now crank, what does meter show?

I'm pretty sure that if the NSS was already bypassed when you got the car, the previous guy couldn't figure out what was causing the temporary problem when he had the car.

I played the car mechanic game for a lot of years, seems a lot of GM guys would install temporary fixes that turned into permanent fixes, until they didn't work any more. Then they tried to figure out how to create another temporary fix, rather then fix the original problem. I'm sorry to say, that sounds exactly like what is going on here.

There are test procedures in place to solve the original problem. Remove the cobble job, and go through the complete test procedure, in order, step by step. Skipping a step makes the entire process wrong. As long as the cobble job is still in place, what ever meter readings you are getting are probably not accurate.

Other wise, just throw more crap at it and hope it works for a while, again.

It may have been more than 12.4, it was early in the morning and I didn't post that until the next day and didn't write down the exact reading.

_____ being exact is kinda necessary for this, we're looking for small differences in voltage. For example a charged battery is 12.6, a half charged battery is 12.4

I will try a voltage drop test next. But want to make sure I'm reading it correctly.

Get battery voltage reading for a base.

_____ yes. At some point a second meter will be handy but we can work with 1


Set meter to 20V (usually what I use for car)

____ we're looking for differences of tenths of a volt, if you have a 2 volt setting or millivolt setting that's what to use.

, Put one end of meter (either red or black) to positive post on battery and the other on the starter battery terminal. Voltage will be zero.

_____ correct, no current in wire so no voltage yet.

Would I just bump the starter to get it to turn over or actually try to start the car?

____ will needtocrank a coupleseconds. At this point we're trying to load the circuit and see if there's too much voltage drop through it. Eventually we will test the signal circuit too.

Note the meter reading. Not sure I understand how it will get a voltage reading since it's not a positive and ground set up, any easy ways to explain how it works so I understand it when I am working on it?

____ every wire will have some resistance and the resistance will lower the voltage from one end of the wire to the other. We're measuring how much the voltage drops from one end to the other. Too much drop isno bueno.



Then move the battery end to the other terminal. Meter and battery should be the same reading. Crank (again, bump or actual start the car?) and note reading.

____ at this point we're testing voltage drop through the starter and ground cable. There's going to be a bunch of moving test points and cranking. Note we don't need a full length crank until the engine fires but at least a couple seconds each time to get a solid reading.

Not sure if it matters, but since you mentioned them and I didn't think of it:

It has HEI and not points.

___ even easier, unplug the keyed power feed

It's an electric choke on the carb.

____ still would want to hold the choke open.

It's a side post battery, but use the charging adapters to be able to use top post cables. Couldn't find long enough 2GA battery cables for the Monte as it's like almost 2' longer than a Chevelle. Stock was 4GA, but when one cable terminal end broke I decided to go 2GA.

____ ugh. Lots of potential problems in that area. Multiple connections, each a potential failure point. And I've seen some really crappy aftermarket battery cables. No matter, try to get the meter probes on the actual battery contacts. I make my own cables from 00 , copper terminals crimped and soldered.


I did mess with some readings at the battery / engine compartment area yesterday. I'll post the numbers when I get a bit more time. Have to go to work and running late.

I do have this to test batteries and it has a "start" test. Maybe I'll try that just for fun to see what it says. I am not sure if it would hook to the battery or down on the starter as I haven't ever selected that option and the user manual isn't very helpful.
https://motopowers.com/products/mot...tool-digital-battery-alternator-analyzer

i always thought most neutral safety switches just completed a ground circuit ?
at least that's how i have always wired them up on most [if not all] makes when i have used a universal harness or wired from scratch.

This sure makes it sound a lot like the solenoid on the starter is dying. Years ago, you could buy replacement solenoids pretty cheap and they were not hard to change. If that starter has been on the car for many years, and a replacement solenoid is still available, I believe I would just go ahead ans replace the solenoid on the starter.

The purple wire is definitely the hot one and is what's broke. When I first made the post I was sure it was the NSS since it worked whey bypassed and thought it was either bad but tested good somehow or out of adjustment. Once it happened again with the NSS bypassed, it turned into a whole different beast.

I believe your best approach would be to try the light bulb brightness test. If it is dimmer than normal when the problem occurs you will then know it is a current/connection issue.
All you need is a nail, needle anything you can push into the connector housing. Attach one end of the test light to the nail pin needle and the other to a clean solid ground. Any metal object nearby should suffice.
place the bulb where you can watch it when trying to start to car. If it's noticeably dimmer when the problem occurs you can back track from there or move it forward following the wire all the way to the starter if necessary. Could be an internally broken wire right at the starter. keep us posted.

Forget about the taillight thing and just use your test light to check for power on each side of the NSS when you turn the key to start. If you have power in and out then the switch is working correctly. I think you are making this harder than it needs to be. Circuit is simply ignition switch to nss to starter.

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The problem is that the typical test light can't put enough load on the system. You'll get false good readings that way. Hence, my home brew test light with a real bulb to pull some juice.

12.2 volts at the signal wire at the starter but no starter installed?

You should be reading full battery voltage under those conditions. You don't have enough to reliably activate the solenoid.

Since it sounds like the NSS and the bypass are getting power from the fuse block, your problem is between the fuse block and battery.

I didn't have much time to mess with it tonight. I did check voltage to the grounding points and all are the same as the battery. I got 0 resistance from the negative terminal to all ground points and ground points to other ones. I used the starter support bracket hole in the block, alternator bracket, starter mounting pad, fender, and negative terminal.

I will hook the light up next and install the starter and see what happens.

The original ignition is getting 12.36V, bypass is getting 12.08V, and battery is 12.56V. This is with the starter out. I know it's not the same as a load on it, but figure check it while it's out. At least I'll see if it's getting voltage.

If it's from the battery to the fuse block, how would I check that?

I hate working on things I don't understand, but do appreciate all the advice and like to understand how things work. I don't have time to work on it for hours at a time most nights.

I didn't have much time to mess with it tonight. I did check voltage to the grounding points and all are the same as the battery. I got 0 resistance from the negative terminal to all ground points and ground points to other ones. I used the starter support bracket hole in the block, alternator bracket, starter mounting pad, fender, and negative terminal.

____ resistance tests are ok but can be misleading. Hence voltage drop testing.


I will hook the light up next and install the starter and see what happens.

____ I'd leave the starter out for right now. If your previous voltage readings are accurate, we've identified a problem in the circuit controlling the solenoid. We don't need the starter installed right now and leaving it out allows access. Wrap some tape on the wires to prevent shorts since we'll need the battery connected.



The original ignition is getting 12.36V, bypass is getting 12.08V, and battery is 12.56V. This is with the starter out. I know it's not the same as a load on it, but figure check it while it's out. At least I'll see if it's getting voltage.

____ congratulations, you've just successfully completed a voltage drop test! Well close anyway. I'm assuming you had the meter probes connected to the solenoid signal and bypass one 1 side and battery negative on the other. Just run the same test with the meter connected to the wires and battery positive. From the readings above, you're losing .2 to .5 volts on an unloaded circuit, that's a huge problem. You really want a voltage reading of zero under these conditions.



If it's from the battery to the fuse block, how would I check that?

____ same as above but testing in different places. Battery positive to wherever. A wiring diagram is going to be needed and you're going to have to get comfortable upside down under the dashboard. No fun.


I hate working on things I don't understand, but do appreciate all the advice and like to understand how things work. I don't have time to work on it for hours at a time most nights.

____ to try to simplify, I'm sure you're understanding that electrical systems work on a complete circuit. The testing you've done on your own indicates that. Voltage drop testing lets you test different sections of the circuit, that's why you hook the meter up in different places.

Going to test the voltage at the IGN tab in the fuse block and at the NSS in and out tonight if I get a chance. Then try to find the purple wire at the bulkhead and check that. That one may be tricky as it's not real clean under the hood and all wires look black from years of gunk and doing it solo is a challenge.

Would a larger wire make a difference in voltage drop? I put a 12ga wire next to the bypass set up and it appears to be slightly smaller, guessing 10ga? I know the original ignition wire is supposed to be 12ga from what I can find.

I am tempted to run a wire with clips from the IGN wire to the starter solenoid, starter battery wire hooked up, and jumper cable from starter mounting point to a good ground and try to read voltage there. I would have to secure the starter from rolling around. Then do it again with the bypass wire. Is that a good idea? I really can't get a test clip or multimeter on the solenoid when it's installed. Too darn tight of a space.

Did a couple things when I got home.

Took the multimeter from the + terminal and to grounds. All showed same voltage as battery and did continuity and all showed OL.Not sure if that means anything.

____ not sure what you're trying to accomplish here.


Tested continuity from NSS (wires hooked up to NSS as they should be) to starter wire, IGN wire from under dash to console NSS (console had an additional harness added to move it to console from column), Fuse block to bypass button, button to starter, fuse box to starter and all showed 0. Had to depress the button to get the fuse box to starter to show 0 since the button breaks the circuit.

Voltage from IGN tab in fuse box is 12.03V.


____ too low, find out why. There's a problem between the battery and fuse block.

NSS in and out both showed 12.0V. Under dash NSS wire before it gets to the NSS harness for the console showed 12.03V.

____ too low, there's a problem between battery and nss

Starter wire showed 12.14V from ignition, which is more than the NSS reading. Not sure why?

Battery was 12.45V


____ battery is weak, needs recharged

I did hook a wire to the output of the NSS for the light socket test. I got it to light up in park and neutral was no light at the top end of neutral, but light at the lower end of neutral before it hits drive if that makes sense. It lit up all the time testing in park. I'll monitor that and see what happens. Hopefully the wire stays on it. I'll try to remember to make sure it's good before each start.

Not sure what steps I can take from here. I am going through all the notes given and will see what I can do, but called it a day for now.

At this point, if the bypass has less voltage and works all the time, I would lean towards the NSS towards the starter, but it wouldn't start a few times when it was bypassed so I'm still confused but willing to trouble shoot what I can. One thought I had was to cut the output of the NSS and run a new 12ga wire to the starter and bypass the bulkhead. Don't know if that would cause any issues.

____ you have a power loss between the fuse block and battery. The only practical bypass would be directly from battery to the solenoid.

Unless you're sure of what you're doing, stay away from playing with the amp setting. At best you'll pop fuses in the meter.

Volts is all you need.

But you need to be able to monitor what the V is doing when the problem occurs, AND when it doesn't. This can easily be accomplished by running a separate (jumper) wire inside the car from the Start terminal on the solenoid to your voltmeter.
It does not have to be a large wire as it will not be carrying any current. Make sure your connections are at both ends of the jumper and the meter has a SOLID Ground.

Very simple and EASY to do. it's the same as the light bulb test except you are looking at the meter reading rather than the brightness of the bulb.

But you need to be able to monitor what the V is doing when the problem occurs, AND when it doesn't. This can easily be accomplished by running a separate (jumper) wire inside the car from the Start terminal on the solenoid to your voltmeter.
It does not have to be a large wire as it will not be carrying any current. Make sure your connections are at both ends of the jumper and the meter has a SOLID Ground.

Very simple and EASY to do. it's the same as the light bulb test except you are looking at the meter reading rather than the brightness of the bulb.

This is what I'm trying to lead him to. From the readings he's provided the fault is in the crank signal circuit. Or, more specifically the power supplied to that circuit. He's measuring a half volt less than battery on both the original and bypass, where's that half volt going?

At some point, he's going to have to get uncomfortable and start poking under the dash. Pro tip, remove the drivers seat!

Next step is to try to trace the wire from the junction block to see where it has the first connection and check voltage there. I found a wiring diagram, but trying to see what one goes to power the fuse block is like reading a foreign language. I figure see where it goes and find a spot to measure voltage at. If it's battery voltage at the first point I find, I'll keep going.

A fully charged battery should be 13.2 volts. Is your battery any good?

I installed the starter today and have a wire going from the solenoid start stud to the cabin of the car to check voltage. I started car and tester showed 10.4V min at the battery and inside was 9.64V at solenoid, the key worked. Ammeter was just above 10 before going for a 45 minute drive. Near 0 on positive side when got home, guessing it was due to the battery being charged while driving. 14.5V while driving on the cigarette plug in voltage meter, which is normal. Started with key after about 20 minutes of it sitting after the drive. Shut it off and tried it again in a couple minutes. Didn’t start 3 times and used bypass to get it started each time.


Voltage at solenoid was under 7V

____ no kidding. I think I told you that a week ago. No offense but, out of your last 3 posts, this is the only relevant information. And we already knew it. Now, seriously, find out where all that power is going before it burns the car down.




and test light on NSS out lit up when the no start happened. Started with key on 4th start. I am going to try to get to the bulkhead and see where the purple wire is and if it needs cleaned up.

Correct that voltage drop should be done while loaded but, based on previous readings, there's a load somewhere in the circuit even without the starter. I'm leaning towards burnt contacts in the ignition switch or the magic green at the bulkhead.

But, that's based on the OP measuring to ground vs an actual drop test. Drop testing is more tolerant of variation in system voltage vs testing to ground.

Still his .5 volt loss is concerning and needs investigation.

I really wish he'd do an actual voltage drop test from battery positive to crank signal. If we can confirm that drop exists (especially without the starter installed) then we know the problem is power supply related.

Note, I've literally spent more time in this thread asking for that specific test than it would take.

I can relate to that

Go into a holding pattern. I have to get back to work but can respond later.

Maybe start rereading the thread and take some notes.

And get colored pencils.

I can not physically get a multimeter probe end on the starter when it's installed.


_____ one reason why I said leave it out for now. But at this point you should have enough practice to do it in 5 minutes. It's in, so leave it alone.


Would this work: I have a wire from the starter to the inside of the car to check voltage at the solenoid. I can run a test wire with clips from the battery to the one end of the multimeter and the other end to the test wire in the car. That should be a battery to meter, meter to wire, wire to starter solenoid.


_____ yes, you absolutely can extend the meter leads and if this wire is on the same connection as the crank signal wire, that works fine. Yes, run an extension from battery positive. NOT NEGATIVE.


To avoid starting the car, can I just unhook the wire going to "BATT" on the HEI distributor cap?

____ yes, I mentioned that before

Would be easier than dropping the starter to avoid actual start up. But is it ok for the starter to run a few seconds and not start the car?


_____ won't hurt the starter as long as you don't grind away too long. 15 seconds is long enough. You just need it long enough to get a steady reading.


Then move it from positive post to negative post and try again correct?


_____ NO! Nowhere has anyone mentioned mentioned battery negative.


The test light set up on the NSS out is a tail light socket with 1157 bulb in it. It was bright when the no start with the key happened and low voltage at the starter. Bright as in seemed like the same as when it started.

_____ a light is merely a guide, a quick and dirty test tool. Not very accurate though.


I posted the headlights on results because nobody explained what "loading the circuit" meant and I thought maybe turning on other stuff would load it.

____ loading a circuit basically means operating it. Turning on the headlights loads the headlights circuit but has nothing to do with the starter.


I wasn't sure how to load the starter circuit without the starter in it. Is it basically just turning the key and sending signal to the starter? Holding it a few seconds?

_____ yes. But from previous readings you posted, there's a power loss even without the starter installed. Hence it might be possible to test the circuit without the starter. The starter is in, leave it alone.


Like I said, I'm not a mechanic or electrician so me not understanding how something works makes it difficult for me to get what results people are looking for. I compare it to Veterans talking military jargon and civilians looking at them like they have a third eye.

____ understood but, instructions were very simple and specific. More about this later.

A thought I had was to try this, but not sure if it would be a good test. The connector that goes on the NSS has a top and bottom female connector (one molded connector with 2 slots). Top is power (would have to verify it again) from the ignition and the other goes to the starter. Could I just move the connector down so the top female is on the bottom male and that leaves the top male tab open. Then hook the wire from the solenoid to that open tab? NSS should work if power is in top/out bottom or in bottom/out top from my understanding. That would be basically key to NSS, NSS right to starter. Bypassing bulkhead and original starter wire.


____ that's modifying the wiring and introducing more variables that will confuse the situation. Don't do it.


I get being frustrated with all kinds of extra info and going through it. I have to do that at work and it gets old fast. However, I look at it as the person is trying and they intend to do the right thing to avoid trouble and penalties. They don't understand the laws or get bad info, but we always try to work with them to make sure it's done right in the end. Same here.

____ sure but we've also tried to emphasize what should be done on not done.

What setting on multimeter would I use for battery + & - to starter?


____Posted earlier, use the lowest scale you have. We're looking for small voltages. And, it doesn't matter which meter lead goes where, we're concerned with the amount not the polarity. If you think about it, everything on this wire IS POSITIVE. Where would you hook up negative? There's nowhere to do so.

I understand checking voltage, but that’s a new one. What is it looking for since it’s not grounded?

____ a difference in the amount of voltage at 2 points on a wire.

Can I test NSS and wires to it same way to work from starter to bulkhead and ignition to bulkhead? Just asking so I understand it and can get the results for help.


_____ if I understand your question correctly, YES! That's the way it works. You want to test various points between the starter solenoid and battery positive. In this case you have an extension wire from the solenoid to inside the car so test that first.

Then test at the NSS which you have easy access to.

Then go to the next easiest place, whether it's the bulkhead or the ignition switch. Refer to the diagram.

At some point, your reading will drop to zero or very close to it. Your problem is between the zero point and the previous test point. This is where the diagram comes in as it's a map of where the electricity goes.

To get some clarity, I am going to do the following. I hope the red words show up as they are questions on the instructions. I just want to make sure I'm hooking things up to the right spots. I am kind of understanding it now and will try my best to get the info requested, but sure there will be questions for clarity along the way. Either testing procedures or understanding how it works so I kind of have more of an idea on what's going on.


I'd make a high draw test light (generic turn signal socket and 1157 bulb with long leads and alligator clips) and put the bulb where you can see it. Test for power at the solenoid and work your way back to the ignition switch. The semi permanent installation will be present when the problem occurs, not hours later after a tow call. Sometimes with intermittent problems you have to do things like this.


Currently have an 1157 socket at the NSS output to starter and wire from solenoid to car interior with a multimeter hooked to it.


____ understood. It may not be much use but leave it alone for now.

I will unplug the HEI BATT connector and leave the starter in. If I need to drop the starter, I will.

____ should be no need to.


For a starting point to test, I wouldn't use the questionable previous owner stuff. I'd connect to the stud on the starter that gets the crank signal. Other end connected to battery negative. As things progress, the connection points will change and at some point you'll need something to backprobe the bulkhead connection.

What would the wire to negative do and battery cable for crank signal or solenoid ignition wire?

____ this was for using the test light to try to catch an intermittent situation. Test lights work on higher voltage than what we're checking.

12.4 volts at the solenoid is a problem. You need battery voltage there.

1-Meter set to a low voltage scale , one end to battery positive, the other to starter battery connection. Voltage should read zero. Now crank, what does meter show?

____ you didn't ask but, this was to test the big battery cable for a voltage drop.


2-Move battery end of meter to negative, meter should read same as battery. Now crank, what does meter show?

Don’t understand what I’m looking for here, but will do it anyway. Helps if I have an idea of what’s happening to work on it. I do get the initial voltage since it’s positive to ground.

_____ this test would have been for the ground between the starter and battery.


We're looking for differences of tenths of a volt, if you have a 2 volt setting or millivolt setting that's what to use.
If you have 2000mv that's a 2 volt scale, use that. We'll be looking for readings between 0 and 700 mv. More than that indicates big problems.

3-If you're planning on getting a couple steps ahead, a voltage drop test from the starter signal stud ( small, on the solenoid) and battery positive would be my next step and then from the engine block to battery negative(isolates the ground cable).

Is this the same as step 1 and 2, but using the meter from the solenoid to the battery positive post, then negative post? And then the same for the block to the negative post, then positive post? I would use the bolt at the starter support bracket more than likely.


____ you're catching on. We're breaking the system down into smaller parts and testing them individually.

Since it sounds like the NSS and the bypass are getting power from the fuse block, your problem is between the fuse block and battery.

Meter hookup is simple. Battery positive on one test lead, the other lead at the starter.

Battery cable at the starter or solenoid?

____ battery terminal and crank signal. The purple (I think) wire.

You don't need to ground anything. You don't need to probe anything. Just need to know voltage between those two points.
Try to crank.
If you test with the starter installed it sounds like the meter will read around 5 volts.
If the starter is out the meter will show something like point 5 volts.
Both results are horrendously bad, but we need you to confirm at least one.

I get the game of battleship analogy. I got out in the garage and this is what I got today. I tried to follow the instructions given. If there is anything right, wrong, indifferent, let me know. I don't understand what exactly I'm looking for, but trying.

Unhooked HEI power. Used a test lead from starter battery cable end, test lead to engine ground (verified with test light as a good ground), test lead from battery terminals, test lead from solenoid to inside of car (hooked up to monitor solenoid voltage when installed the starter last time), input to NSS (output has 1157 bulb to monitor). Can not get the clips to stay on the solenoid purple ignition wire, so used the lead I have set up.

Starter:
Hooked multimeter to battery positive to starter positive cable and positive battery terminal. Battery was 12.71V. 20V setting showed 0 and 2000mV showed 0. Cranked engine over and got .23V (20V setting) and -236 (2000mV setting).

____ congratulations, you've done a proper voltage drop test. You measured about. 25 volts of drop between the battery terminal and the end of the starter cable. A bit high but acceptable.

Moved test lead to negative terminal and left other one on starter. Battery showed 12.56V. 20V setting showed 12.61V (20V setting) and OL (2000mV setting). Cranked engine over and got 10.61V (20V setting) and OL (2000mV setting).

____ would be nice to see what battery voltage reads at the same time but, seems typical. Starters put a heck of a draw on a battery.


Solenoid:
Hooked multimeter up to wire in car that goes to solenoid and positive battery terminal. Battery was 12.61V. 20V setting showed .12.61V and 2000mV showed OL . Cranked engine over and got .44V (20V setting) and 1418 (2000mV setting).

____ this is the same terminal as the wire to the NSS correct?

Moved test lead to negative terminal. 20V setting showed 0V (20V setting) and -.002 (2000mV setting). Cranked engine over and got -9.48V (20V setting) and OL (2000mV setting).

NSS input:
Hooked multimeter to ground in car and positive to NSS. Got 10.03V (20V setting) and for some reason OL (2000mV setting).

____ please retest between battery positive and both sides of the NSS.

Solenoid inside car:
Same set up as NSS. Got 9.45 V (20V setting) and OL-990 (2000mV setting).

Block to Negative:
Battery was 12.5V. 0V (20V setting) and 0V (2000mV setting). Cranked engine over and got .29V (20V setting) and 300 (2000mV setting).

____ battery cables both check out fine, another. 25 ish drop on the ground side.


Car cranked each time and 1157 test bulb on NSS output lit up each time.

____ so still intermittent. But when testing, your results seem ok. Going to need to catch it when it acts up. See following post

I'm guessing the negative are because of how the leads were set up. Battery showed -12.71V when they were on the wrong terminals just to see if I understood it correctly. I realize it would be better to test the actual ignition wire vs the test lead I have on it, but if that has to be done, I'll have to do it later. Getting close to putting the car up for the season and don't want to have it starting when not driving it.