Your DVM likely has an digital ammeter built into it. Assuming the draw is below 10A. Disconnect either cable and pu the meter in series between the battery and cable. You tube will help
A pic of your meter or make/model will help us guide you

A few from over the years:
an 55 t bird electric clock that didn't work but the points that activate the spring winding motor were stuck shut so the motor ran continuously> becuase the closck didn't work I ASSumed it wasn't the problem.
Mis-wired add on accessories like stereos etc.
Mis-wired relays.
low current relays stuck shut.
The t-bird was an --- kicker LOL

Using an ampmeter isn't easy. If you exceed that amperage setting you will blow the fuse. You will also need a jumper as I stated to get it to go to sleep. The test light is easier. You may find when pulling fuses it wakes up a module causing a draw. Normally they will go back to sleep in a minute or so. When pulling fuses take a picture of the fuse block so you can put them back in the correct spot. Leave each fuse out as you go. I found it was often easier to start with them all removed. then reinstallone ata time. If the lamp lights wait and see if it was just a module waking up. There may be 2-3 different fuse blocks as well. If the fuse block is inside the car make sure the RAP fuse stays out when the door is open.
Doug

that is why I mentioned not exceeding the 10A draw, most are rated for 10A It is also why I asked for pic's / make/model # of the meter

The jumper may also be needed depending on where the test light is connected. Usually it's in series at the battery cable as it would be with the digital meter.

Either will work but the meter will give you an actual number of amps or milliamps. A matter of choice or preference

I've had a few where the acceswsories kept adding up IE: stereo memory, Digital dash, alarm systems, door solenoids, and suddenly we can have a 400ma draw 😲

I can almost guarantee that you will have some residual draws for several minutes.

My method would be this..

1. Roll down the windows & open the hood. If it has an obvious switch along the perimeter of the hood clip the switch down.
2. If you have an underw hood light remove it.
3. Connect a light with a long lead between the battery terminal and the cable. Place the light in an obvious place to see.
4. Wait for the light to dim. As long as 5 or 10 minutes.
5. Start pulling fuses. You may have to crawl in and out the window so don't open the door and start the timer again.
6. When the light gets dim. Note the fuse and replace it.
7. Continue until you have pulled all the fuses inside and under the hood.

Look at the fuses and a good fuse chart to see if you can narrow it down to a circuit.

A couple tips. Take pictures of the fuse block before and after to be sure you did the fuses right.

My worst scenario was a radio draw integrated a 12 by 8 touch screen control panel.
It literally controlled all the AC, Radio, GPS, etc.

$1200 or no radio was the owners choice.

Sorry it took a while to answer, I have a craftsman #82141 multimeter. Reading the dial clockwise; Vac 600 200 Aac 2oom 10a (in gray) 200m 10a (in gray again) Adc 1.5v 9v ohms cat ll-600v 2000k 200k 20k 2000 200 Vdc200m 2000m 20 200 600. Dont know how to post a pic & being its probably the only time I'll need to do so, I'll pass on the lesson. I looked at relays, none were burnt & pulled fuses, cant find anything out of the ordinary. I have a sneaky suspicion the battery may have a few cells bad or going bad as the drainage is very fast. We're taking the car to have the battery load tested. I'll report the results after. Thx again any more suggestions always welcomed. Dave ss/ea #1355

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126490946532?

This one, right?

Update guys just got back from testing the battery & it failed the test. Unfortunately, auto zone didn't have his battery in stock, so tmrw's another day. so no shorts or open circuitsThx for the help Dave ss/ea #1355

I've heard Walmart's Everstart Maxx is the same as Duralast Gold. That's what I'm going with next when I need a battery.

just be prepared to spend a bunch of money on a new battery ! man, have those things gone up in price !
i lucked out this spring when i needed a new battery for my charger. i found out the [somewhat] local scrapyard has a pick-a-part section they park the cars they drag in for a few weeks before shredding them, and they remove the battery's before parking the vehicles in their respective brand sections.
they only keep the good battery's to sell, and scrap the rest of them.
i was real lucky to score a wally world super maxx top of the line battery that was almost new for only $20.00 !
well worth the trip over there !
i really need to go more often, as there is always a new selection every couple of weeks or so. meaning, if you see something when you are there, ya better grab it, 'cause it won't be there the next time you go !

He has a warranty from auto zone good for about another 2 years. We replaced the previous battery, against the original, now this'll be #3, that was replaced in January. Thx for all the help Dave ss/ea #1355

90 percent of the batteries i replace are Walmart and Autozone and most of those are still under warranty.

Terrible batteries. I need something I can depend on and they are not it.

The current best price and quality are NAPA. They sell the NAPA or AAA batteries and almost always have a 20& off if you buy online and pick up in person. Sometimes its a rebate but I have never had one fail in warranty so far and most lastn6 to 7 years.

Advance and O'REILLY'S also have good batteries buy NAPA beats them on price.

my experience with the wally world batteries is the complete opposite of yours !
of the three currently in use, excluding the $20.00 almost new one from the scrapyard in my charger, one is from 2014, one from 2011, and one from 2013.
all start instantly, hold the charge forever, [negative terminals disconnected if not being used longer than two weeks] and are made by johnson controls. if that even matters.
although not related to today's batteries, in my junkyard ownership days [1972-1984/85] there was never any "really good" batteries out there, and as long as any make battery we sold held a charge for a week, it was a "good" one.
we sold batteries for $10.00 [with exchange] and got $5.00 for each junk battery at the one scrap yard.
our "yard vehicles" were parked on an incline at the end of the day, so they were usually "coast started" and left running when we used them.