Still following the results of 51515R disclosure to see if quality declines. I, too, have been using them for years but am proactively concerned.

Jomar no-bypass filter - http://hughesengines.com/Index/prod...amp;level2=RmlsdGVycw==&partid=23365

I used to use those on my small block 10 or so years ago. I tried one on my Big Block and the filter barely grabs any threads on the filter adaptor. Not sure why, but i think it only grabs 1 or maybe 2 threads max. I did not like that, so went to the Moroso instead.

Race motor?


This, or some version of it, and don't look back

Total Seal did a test where they analysed the oil with two different types of filters, I'll never run a screen type filter after watching this.

https://youtu.be/bVEbHTNWxoQ?si=pEGUjxsZHeb-ofJ9

I always had bearing wear issues with the system 1 filters. Guy that does my machine work and builds circle track engines talked me into going back to a paper element filter years ago and the wear issues went away.

IMO the system 1 filters screen the oil instead of filtering it. The 61 micron Wix does a better job of filtering than a 45 micron system 1 did on my engine. My bearings were reused with the Wix, and we never could with the System 1. YMMV

I’m not running a filter, too much restriction -hp loss. Stick a bunch of magnets in the pan and valley to catch the iron particles. Aluminum and brass won’t hurt anything. If engine blows no filter will save you, it’s over so fast you can’t shut it down quick enough. Streets a different animal. Besides how can dirt get into a closed engine unless you’re racing in a plowed field or building it out under the oak tree. First start up use plain jane oil for 5-10 minutes then change out to the good stuff. Use the magnetic drain plug, if it’s got trash on it pull the pan and start checking.

I started using JoMar filters about five years ago. So far everything looks good. My reasoning for using the Jomar is a) non-bypass design for used with bushed lifters and b)quality control. I run Delo 400 or Shell Rotella 15-w40 in almost everything.

B2-HPG.

Seems like a good product. I’ve been using them for 25 years on my muscle cars with no complaints. But I’ve used just about every other brand on everything else. No Complaints on any of them.

I’ve been using Moroso filters since 1985. Blessed by Tesar, good enough for me. They have built hundreds of high profile engines.

Aluminum degrades into aluminum oxide, the grit used in sandpaper, and does so VERY fast.After grinding clearance in my new aluminum block, and missing some fine aluminum particles during cleanup, it took out my bearings (scratched) and the crank needed to be polished. So filters are vital. I firmly believe multiple filters that allow enough fine filtering and flow, along with a well designed magnetic filter to catch fine iron particles would be a good way to go.

All the stock Mopar/Ford oil filters can bypass up to 20% of the oil flow, the race filters can bypass 40%
The stock GM /Chevy type filters are non bypass, 100 % filtration
I do still run the stock type Mopar/Ford oil filters including the big NASCAR type remote mounted Wix race filters

Seems like you could find a safer way to squeeze out a bit more performance w/o sacrificing engine durability. And that's ASSuming you can verify that removing the filter does, in fact, show improved on-track performance.

Ok, why do we remove the air filter or run the drag car without one? Anything that restricts flow..

How much did your oil pressure change after bypassing the filter ?

Jomar 100% No-bypass filters are all I use. They flow a massive amount of oil and have a thicker shell. So far, they have protected my bearings from contamination keeping them clean in spite of my valve train suffering excessive wear and damage and the subsequent metal slurry going into the oil pan..

What's causing the valve train damages

The spring height was insufficiently set, resulting in less spring pressure than was required to control the hydraulic roller lifters. By the time I noticed it, the issue resulted in all the needle bearings in my exhaust-side T&D Rockers disintegrated. My intake pushrods were close enough to the outside of the intake ports to touch them when they began to flex from the harmonics caused by valve float.This was not the case with the exhaust pushrods. They were isolated from contact with anything other than the two ends. This allowed them to effectively turn into a roller bearing destroying harmonic resonance.

Dwayne Porter figured out what went wrong, and helped me switch over to solid rollers. I never looked back.

How much has this improved your ET and MPH?



Excellent question

Can’t find my notes yet