I was thinking about doing it by bumping the starter, what do you all think about this?... On a 72 Dart can I put my braker bar on the side part like this guy done in the video or should I put it on a block of wood on the ground? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lcubuco92_w&t=3s

Ok, when I get to Timing chain cover, the round seal, after you get the old one out, do just tap the new one in?.. & when I put the cover on I hear you got to have a buddy hold it down to get the bolts in, So douse somebody got to hold it down?

Timing seal should go in with a seal driver, but if you don't have one a socket or round piece of hardwood that is close to the outside diameter of the seal will work. On some the seal won't want to start so it may require a little light sandpaper action on the starting edge of the seal so it starts. They coat the seals and sometimes it creates too much interference with the hole. 50/50 if it's an issue or not.

Make sure you don't disturb the thin round spring on the rear of the seal either. Some like to put a little white grease on the backside to keep it from falling out. Not a common thing, but be aware of it.

Cover should go back on with a few bolts to get it suspended initially. There are different lengths and several go into the coolant passages if I recall so you'll need some paste on the ends of some of those bolts that go into the block or you'll have leaks to deal with. If you have the bolt orientation scrambled do a dry run test fit mock up to get them back in the proper order.

Permatex makes antifreeze specific sealers in little tubes for the water pump to timing cover seals. Worth the money vs standard rtv.

The bottom oil pan seal, how do you get it out, do you got to cut it?

The rubber U shaped one at the bottom of the timing cover? Likely siliconed into place so pull it off the timing cover and use some solvent to clean up the leftover residue. That surface and the oil pan lip need to be squeaky clean for the new seal to work. Silicone does not stick to old silicone that great so best to start from scratch.

every seal with a garter spring i install, i fill the cavity with either white grease or wheel bearing grease.
you sure don't want that spring to pop out.
another thing i do, is install the cover loosely, then install the damper 1/2 way. this centers the damper in the seal bore.
snug up the cover bolts you can get to so the cover does not move, then remove the damper [if necessary] to get to the rest of the cover bolts.
then install the damper fully.
this is an extra step, but it can be the difference between the new seal doing it's job, or not.
these days with the questionably quality of all parts in general, every [extra] step necessary to insure the part functions the way intended, is well worth the extra effort needed to do so.

That is a good idea!

I like to put a thin swipe of assembly lube on the metal surfaces that any type of seal goes over to keep the seal from getting burned up as some are a pretty tight fit - torque converters, slip yokes etc.

yes, the seal surface that contacts the moving part [as well as the part itself] always gets a swipe of grease on them as well. [just forgot to mention that in my previous post]

A few times working at the dealer, a impact wouldn't get it done. So we resorted to using the starter. Just a short hit on the key. Sometimes the socket/breaker bar will fall off the nut. So you may need to strap the handle to the K frame. Overall it's not near as scary as it sounds. Pretty much like the video shows. Except I didnt hold the breaker bar by hand doing it by myself.
Doug