https://www.arcamax.com/business/businessnews/s-3134952

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Additionally, gas-powered mid-priced cars and crossovers like the Chevrolet Equinox or Toyota Camry had an average fueling cost of $10.71 per 100 purposeful miles. Charging mostly at home, EVs like the Ford Mustang Mach-E and Tesla Model 3 had an estimated cost per 100 miles of $12.61. The cost while using mostly commercial charging was even higher at $16.11.

There was one exception to the higher costs for EVs. When charged mostly at home, luxury EVs like the Tesla Model S and Mercedes-Benz EQS came out at $13.50 per 100 purposeful miles, compared to $17.81 using mostly commercial charging. The cost was $17.30 for gas-powered luxury vehicles like the Cadillac CT5 and Lexus ES. Premium-gas users increased the difference.

For pickup trucks, fueling up an Ford F-Series truck, Chevrolet Silverado, Ram 1500 or other gas-powered options was estimated at $17 per 100 purposeful miles. It was $16.86 for diesel. Meanwhile, charging an F-150 Lightning or a Rivian R1T mostly at home came out to $17.75 and mostly using commercial chargers raised the cost to $26.39.

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Those numbers are pretty close for my '22 Silverado work truck. After almost 40k miles I average 17 mpg and gas was $2.79 last fill up.

Interesting but to me they seemed rather vague about the electricity costs they were using. Although it seemed like they were using Michigan's higher than average rates.

Do those home costs include the cost of the charge station?

Do they include expected maintenance on both vehicle?

Total cost to operate is a bit different i would think.

Not defending one or the other but lots of factors go into my car costs.

Insurance also
.

I have students who Uber to class because Uber 2 days a week is cheaper than a car note, insurance, gas etc.

Those numbers are way off for Oregon. Here in Oregon I can drive 100 miles in my Leaf for around $3. My Toyota 4Runner costs about $12 for 100 miles and my Dodge Ram is more like $15+ for 100 miles.

I keep track of all expenses for all of my vehicles for tax purposes since they are all used as business vehicles. The EV is dramatically cheaper to drive than either the 4Runner or the Dodge Ram.

The IRS has per mile driven amounts that vary by type of use,
which you can compare to above article after correcting for 100 mile versus 1 mile,
although it is not clear whether IRS includes an allowed labor charge for driving:


“Beginning on January 1, 2023, the standard mileage rates for the use of a car (also vans, pickups or panel trucks) will be:

65.5 cents per mile driven for business use, up 3 cents from the midyear increase setting the rate for the second half of 2022.

22 cents per mile driven for medical or moving purposes for qualified active-duty members of the Armed Forces, consistent with the increased midyear rate set for the second half of 2022.

14 cents per mile driven in service of charitable organizations; the rate is set by statute and remains unchanged from 2022.

These rates apply to electric and hybrid-electric automobiles, as well as gasoline and diesel-powered vehicles.”

from

https://www.irs.gov/newsroom/irs-is...-business-use-increases-3-cents-per-mile

Headline in WSJ:
Apple Abandons its Electric Car Project

body of article says “$ Billions spent”

To the EPA, CARB, Environmentalists and even the manufactures the costs to drive 100 miles means $#!t to all of them it's the amount of low emissions credit they get for making them. They could build one that only took a buck fifty ($1.50) to go 100 miles but if it produced twice as much of an emission penalty it would never make it to market. It's not about the cost to go 100 miles per customer (YOU) they could give a crap about your money savings, it's about them and their money savings. So go and buy into all of the lying hype about how economical an EV is and I'll keep buying an ICE. THEY ARE NOT BUILDING EV's FOR YOU, THEY ARE BUILDING THEM FOR THEM AND TO MAKE MONEY FOR THEM and one of the reasons to meet emissions numbers for THEM NOT YOU! If it were for "Cost to travel 100 miles" they would totally forget about the amount of emissions the vehicle produces and make a dirty ICE or dirty hybrid that got 200 miles per gallon. We're being scammed........again.

The 65.5 cents per mile is really close to what my actual expenses are. I use actual numbers rather than the IRS number and I ended up with $6900 of car related expenses last year. That is gas, tires, repairs, registration, etc. for the vehicles that I use for my business. I think the total miles driven was a little over 10,000.

But the EV was almost zero. No maintenance costs just a few hundred for tags.

Some states are getting wise to the heavy evs busting up the roads and not paying any highway tax at the pumps. They anre putting a fee on them. Even hybrids are getting an extra fee assessed too.

Latest budget from province of Alberta, they are going to ADD $200 to EV registration . . . to cover the loss of fuel tax revenue for road maintenance. I believe Saskatchewan to east of us in Alberta does this too !

For me it is less about the cost to go 100 miles than it is about usefulness. We do have a high mpg sedan (Hyundai Elantra ECO - over 40 mpg on the highway), but there are some things it cannot do. Like tow a trailer. We bought a diesel pusher RV in part so that we can stay at my son's place for a couple of nights. Fuel to get there will be expensive, but we won't have a motel bill.

Way past time to do this. A free ride can only go on so long. Our roads could definitely use more work/maintenance, but the money will probably go somewhere else.

At 14 mpg, and $6.00 a gallon for diesel I spend about $42 to travel 100 miles. Electricity is .28 cents a kw. It would be a lot cheaper to drive a Lighting. Purchasing, insuring, and registering is another story

How do you average the cost of a home charging station into this, My friend had the power company pull in a larger service also.

To be fair I would think look at the service life if the vehicle and divide installation costs over that time.

I.e. if you expect the ev to last 10 years and the cost to install charger is 10,000 then the cost per year would be 1,000.
I made the numbers up but the concept is valid. I would be interested in what actual numbers are to install a station.


Doesn't the ev use tires too?
To be accurate you should look at tire wear per mile on each car then factor in costs over the miles driven.

You didn't say, but if you replaced tires on 2 gas vehicles that already had 2 years of wear or driven 10 times as much as the ev that had brand new tires when you got it, the numbers may be off.
No doubt the ev is cheaper for the short term but long term will be less rosey. Still better I think but not as pretty as right now.

Like redoing what they just did! There are two roads near me that where repaved about a year ago. Well they cut sections of the surface to access something under it. Leaving the road surface with patches/bumps! So now it's not much better than the was it was before. Our brain dead politicians at their best! Maybe fix/access what's under the road first then repave it. They had a sign saying your tax dollars at work, But they didn't say how much money they wasted doing the job twice!

LOL. Its the same everywhere. Here by me they repaved one of the main roads. The paving company must have had something wrong with their machine that created 'waves' in the pavement. Literally when you drive on it, it vibrates the whole car. Everyone complained to the road commission about how crappy of a job they had done. We got told that "it will smooth out over time"....LOL. Yea...No. Its been 2+ years and it will still vibrate your teeth. I'm sure someone got a kickback for the terrible job done.

and over and over, rinse and repeat.................

The staggeringly high cost is the national one to upgrade all the 19,200 volt to 750,000 volt powerlines.

On top of the cost is the vast time involved in lawsuits because of NIMBY where no one wants powerlines and towers crossing their property.

If every gas furnace and stove in homes, and gas fired peaking turbine is shut down, the needed added Kilowatts of just the HV grid staggers the engineers who would have to erect it - even if every roof gets solar cells with a Tesla Powerwall-like battery pack and inverter.

Every freshman engineering student, and each college Physics student, should be assigned homework problems to calculate out the needed Kilowatts, added capital costs, and yearly interest to be paid on the new debt. That assignment will not happen at today’s universities.

There isn't a "charger station", just a 240 volt outlet in the garage. My house is new construction so the outlet was prewired. On an older house it can cost a few hundred dollars to pull an additional 50 amp circuit for the outlet.
My EV is a 2020 Leaf that I bought used. The tires are original and only have 10,000 miles on them. They'll last another 5 or 6 years or so since the car doesn't get driven a lot. I do cash based accounting so I don't amortize stuff like tire wear into the mileage. I just report actual costs. Actual maintenance costs for my Leaf have been zero since I bought it.

Is a Leaf a full electric vehicle, or it is a hybrid?

My 49 Dodge pickup (EFI V8, auto, 4x4) gets driven 100 + miles every week. Depending on the cost of the gas at the pump, (it ranged between 3.15/gal and 3.59/gal in Feb) my fuel only cost is $25-$30 every 100 miles or so, around town. Most of the summer it sees a lot more highway miles and that costs around $5 - $6 less per 100 miles (fuel only). We put 9,000 miles on the 49 in 2023. My truck, during the worst winter conditions has a 150 mile range on the fuel usage before I feel a need to fill up (which takes about 10 minutes at most).

Then is comes down to personal choice. I would much rather drive my 49 that I have about $10,000 invested in, then your Leaf. I have a friend that bought a new Leaf (maybe its the one you have). After 6 months, the traded it in and got an IC car.

I think this shows how EVs can be efficient but also come with hidden expenses, particularly for people who rely on public chargers.

I’ve been considering renting an EV for short trips to test out the real-world costs before fully committing. If anyone else is in the same boat, it’s worth checking out rental options like https://realcar.miami/ where you can try different models without a long-term commitment.

My 2011 Toyota Corolla that I bought for $1500 last November gets 35 mpg. Average price of gas in my area was $3 so a little less than $9 per 100 miles (total costs no car payments) I changed oil once for $30 oil and filter. It has 249,000 miles on it. When figuring cost for any vehicle add in the car payment and insurance, I think this car sold new for right at 10 grand. An old beater that’s paid for will beat the heck out of any EV on ‘fuel’ cost, one can buy A LOT of gas for that $1000 or more a month car payment.! You’re not saving a dime buying an EV

my "bus" [1999 "shorty" caravan] was bought 19 years ago for $400.00 with a broken transaxle, where the differential "death pin" exited the case in spectacular fashion.
it had 125k on the clock, and as it came from arizona, it had zero rust, with the exception of the boogers on the bottoms of the front fenders where the foam traps dirt and dust, and with any moisture added, the rust boogers always appear.
a local junk caravan was bought for $75.00 for the transaxle, a trans-go shift kit was installed, as well as the "factory fix" for the "death pin", [just two tin tabs on each side of the pin, retained by the ring gear bolts above and below the pin] new seals where the axles plug in, and it now has almost 200k on the clock. however, i don't drive like i used to when i was still working, which was routinely 6-7 days a week.
as it was rust free, every year since, it has been oiled up underneath, in all body panels, [which included drilling a ton of 1/2" holes in the doors, dog legs, and gate] plus removing the tail lights and all the body plugs, including the ones that are on the inner rocker panels, as well as any other removable item that will allow oil to be blasted into any crevasse and cavity, especially those where that rotten foam is present. it leaks like a sieve forever afterwards, and when the outside temperature is remotely warm.
other than oil changes, a water pump [3.3 engine], hoses, tires, basic maintenance items, and a set of brakes, this thing has been trouble free.
the ac still blows 39 degrees, as it has since day one, with not an ounce of R134 added. [it's possible the ac was worked on before i got it, because of where it came from.]
it has hauled everything from engines and transmissions, to complete rear end housings, plus tires and wheels, and anything and everything one can conjure up to haul.
it gets 26-27mpg loaded or empty, city or interstate, winter or summer, it doesn't seem to matter.
a cheap, well rounded vehicle that is economical to operate, and unless something catastrophic happens to it, will be the last one i'll be buying in what lifetime i have left.

The cost of oil and a filter divided by my oil change interval and multiplied by 100 miles comes out to $1.18 on my '11 Dodge. That cost would need added to the per 100miles of a gas vs electric comparison. Cost of the labor would need added too since your average consumer isn't doing oil changes themselves.

Some of the suppliers for my business are 30 to 40 miles away from my shop. When I make a parts run I visit a few suppliers and the round trip is usually around 100 to 120 miles. I drive this parts route at least once a month, sometimes twice a month.
My Leaf goes about 130 miles on a full charge and it costs me roughly $4 to charge it up at home. $4 for 130 miles is roughly the same as $3 for 100 miles.
My 2004 Dodge Ram 5.7 gets about 15 mpg around town and gas is $3.50 here at the moment so it costs me roughly $23 to drive 100 miles with the truck. Given that, I can save $20 per trip by taking the Leaf rather than the truck.
I drive the Leaf and pocket the $20 unless I have to pick up something really big or heavy.

That is true. My truck costs a lot more to maintain than my Leaf. Oil changes are getting close to $80 around here and I usually change the oil twice a year even though I don't drive the truck more than about 4,000 miles a year. My Leaf is five years old and maintenance costs so far has just been some wiper blades.

Does your charger record how much electricity the charge consumed?

Just wondering how you arrived at the $4 figure.

Kevin

Is anybody factoring in the cost of a new battery in a EV when it dies in 15 years? This is going to interesting when they get to that age and see what happens. How many will be stuck on the side of the road because the battery won't hold a charge and the owner don't have the $$$ to buy a new one.

I also "had" an early Leaf. Virtually zero maintenance and I plugged it in during the day to charge. I live in the desert and have solar panels so I don't get an electric bill, so very cheap to run. Over the years the battery range dropped significantly until it was nearly useless. I contacted Nissan about battery replacement and was quoted $22,000 for a new battery for my $3,500 Leaf. While it was cheap to run, the battery cost made it financially impractical for a long term vehicle. It was always a 4th car and I would not voluntarily take a EV on long trips as range anxiety is real. I read China makes a good EV for $10K with range over 200 miles. If such a creature was made here instead and sold for $10K, I'd consider it as a 4th car to save some money. Although with today's high insurance prices, I'm not sure the math would work and I'm not getting rid of my gas cars and CTD.

First gen Leaf batteries did not hold up well in the heat. I owned my first gen for 5 years here in Oregon and the battery capacity never dropped. But the car was always garaged and we don't get really hot or really cold weather here.

The Leaf has a 40 KWH battery and electricity here is roughly 10 cents per KWH when you add up the cost plus taxes and service charges. The cost of electricity is only 6 cents a KWH but there are other charges on the bill. Some states like CA charge a lot more for electricity so you have to look at your bill before you buy an electric car. Here in Oregon we have really low electric rates. Plus, our weather is perfect for driving an EV. Other parts of the country are not good for EVs. SoCal is one of them even though EVs are popular there.

If you're worried about battery life then it is best to lease an EV. In fact, leasing an EV is probably the smartest thing to do these days since the prices on them are dropping as new technology comes out. If you lease one then you just turn it in after 3 years and upgrade to the next technology. If you buy you can get stuck with a car that isn't worth much after 5 years.

Other good idea is to just buy a lease return EV. Let the leasing company take the big depreciation hit. If you buy one that is 3 years old and drive it until it is 10 years old you'll do okay. It won't be worth much at the end, but you'll only have to pay half price for it after 3 years. If you find a super low miles car you should do okay. My second Leaf was a lease return that only had 6,000 miles on it. It was 3 years old but only 6,000 miles so it was basically in brand new shape.

Electric would be great for me… 16 to 20 miles a day commute. But initial purchase cost kinda blows that out of the water. I’ll just keep driving my 96 Jeep 4.0 XJ. You talk about battery cost?? You’re Eco Diesel takes a dirt nap (we’re up to 26 of them where I work) that’ll set you back $30k!

I can tell you that Hybrid customers (Prius owners in particular) always seem surprised when they get the news their battery is kaput. We have very few Toyota EVs on the road here in Ohio but I service tons of Hybrids every week at the dealership. We had one Rav4 EV come in with a failed battery and the customer declined the $17,000 battery repair and decided to store it in the hopes battery prices would go down. Most people that buy Hybrids or EVs do it to be "green" not because it will save them money. I know there are a few exceptions to that statement but I have been with Toyota since we started the hybrid revolution if you could call it that. I need to go to HV school in January and I was going to take a pass because I'm going to retire from the wrenching here in a few years and I think it would be a waste of time but my boss insisted to keep my master diag tech status.
So most owners don't ever put away money for their eventual battery failure. Oddly enough I have replaced about a dozen Prius batteries but not one Camry or Highlander battery. Oh well this Hybrid and EV thing isn't going away so I guess I better get trained while they will still pay me to get smarter.

Gus

Used ones are cheap. I sold my first gen Leaf for $5000. It was a super nice little car. Very dependable, charged on a 110v circuit, very low maintenance costs. But the max range was around 60 miles. Worked great for running around town or a short commute but you wouldn't want to take a trip in it. Great car for a high school kid or a second car or for short commutes.

I use about 350 WH/mile. Charging at home (120v, 12A) I pay $0.15 / KWH under a time of use plan (higher m-f, 5-9pm). For fuel, that pencils out to 5.25 cents per mile. A good big sedan might get 28 mpg. At $5/gal (premium, california) they will be paying 17.86 cents per mile, again, for fuel only.

Maintenance, repairs, depreciation, insurance, etc., will affect the overall cost per mile, but for fuel only, the electric car is doing well for me. Now, if I had to use superchargers at $0.50/KWH, my fuel cost would be almost exactly the same as the gas sedan. So the cost has a lot to do with where you do your charging. I know there are some people who are paying as little as 11-12 cents per KWH for electricity which is awesome. Not here, though.

Electricity is $0.06 per KWH here in Oregon, but they add fees to it. I pay a fee of $15 per month so my rate varies depending on how much I use.

Like i said my paid for Corolla gets 38 mpg, 100 miles @ 2.95 a gallon comes out to $7.75 per 100 miles or .077 cents per mile, roughly 8 pennys per mile, if my figures are right. Ill check again.
Hard to believe it could be better than that.
Extra figuring, cost of vehicle. $65,000 EV for 72 months est monthly payment $902. Average yearly driving distance is 7,500 miles @ 5 days driving, 29 miles a day average, = $1.44 PER MILE DRIVEN just for the EV. So 100 miles = $144 on top of the electricity charge. Of course the cheaper the car the less per mile. Even if you paid cash up front that fee still has to be added to the bottom line.
So the old clunker will beat the heck out of any new car or EV.

Only “concern” is the gawd awful insane summer temps I choose to live in. I read the Vegas residents comments above. We go to Vegas to cool off