Most of what you are doing is way beyond my knowledge and skill level, but it is still worth watching. Maybe I'll learn something.

Another cool build thread by Mad Max.

i too, enjoy this build progress.
as with most things being modified, i like to watch, because i never know what kind of method i might be able to "steal" for use in the future.
please keep this going.

ok - just didn't need to clog up the forum if not really required - thanks for the responses

So in the spirit of making things easier to maintain, over the weekend I made three strategically-placed holes in the floor to give me full access to the gas tank, including removing the sending unit to replace the fuel pump - all without having to drop the tank (and cover, and armor, and and and), and I'll make three matching bolt-on trap door panels to cover things up -



First - sending unit. There's two braces that meet up under the floor, and I cut away as much panel as I could without cutting into the braces, just to have something to start with, and lucked out because I can juuuust squeeze out the sending unit as-is :thumbsup: - and I highly recommend the sending unit ring clamp tool - like $30 on Amazon and WELL worth the $ -





Next - the OE fuel level system uses whateverthehell ohms range (still don't know for certain), so I'm using a stand-alone 8" float assembly from ISSPRO that matches my gauges, with the respective 240-33 ohms rating; drilled the hole, and I can reach inside the tank and I'll use a nice ring clamp to secure the 5 bolts from the bottom -



here's a look inside the tank - there's about...I dunno...1/4" between the bottom of the float and the bottom of the tank...so I'll have a bit 'more' after the gauge reads empty



other side -



Next - return line. My Holley Sniper EFI needs a return line, and I got this nice return line kit from EFI Systems Pro - same place I got the Sniper from - great place and great tech support -



Float and return line installed - little heat and the OE plastic return line tubing slid right over the new fitting, and used an EFI clamp to make sure it stay's put -



Next - the main vent. Wanted to be able to access the main vent and fuel full/vent tubes, so out came the deathwheel and another hole in the floor is made -

throttle, brake, and e-brake pedals, hydrobooster/m-cylinder, and inner fender liner all fitted in place. Brake and fuel lines can now be installed. Also have a mind's eye of my dash. Progress (y)

This big hole had to be filled in - it's a cowl vent that I don't want, so I covered it with 3/16 plate which also serves as the brake pedal mount - works great. The Jeep had a throttle 'sensor' pedal so I'm using the Dakota's throttle pedal, and e-brake mechanism, but using the Jeep's brake pedal, all three of which were altered for better placement -









and with the brake pedal located, so then can be the hydrobooster and m-cylinder, and brake lines to the frame -



trimmed the inner liner to clear the brakes -



fits great -



and one of my favorite parts, the dash - this is a basic minds' eye of how it's gonna look -

fan shroud is essentially done. Chopped out the entire electric fan section and...using the same good ole' water tank as before...fabbed a steel shroud which bolts to the plastic so it fits like OE, and then separated it into upper/lower sections that bolt together for easy access to the clutch fan. Working on my favorite part now - the dash...

I have a radiator that I remember it coming out of a 70's truck but am unsure of its application. Part number is 3736949. Any idea what it is out of, I did a search but couldn't find anything. Thanks

in a M38 or M35 deuce...and this is what I came up with -



this is what an actual M35 and M38 dash looks like -

M35


M38


This is the actual dash 'frame', which will bolt to the interior -



add a set of simple 2" heater vents -







I'm finishing up some of the details and should have it bolted in place soon. After that...I crack open the box with the Painless wiring harness and then things'll really get sporty

It appears you have moved the instrument cluster over in line with the steering column, I'm sure you have already considered the following questions, but I feel the need to ask them anyway.

Will the moved cluster clear the steering column?
And, will the steering wheel block the view of some of the gauges?

yep considered the column, and no there won't be any physical or visual interference issues...at least none that'll be any issue. I'll still be cutting a channel into the bottom of the panel(s) for the column (the two lower/inner gauges (oil press and oil temp) are 2" apart to accommodate the 1.5" column - this is just the initial glean on how it is going to all fit together.

...woot! - the dash frame now officially bolts in 👍

Used duck tape to 'locate' the main panel in mid air, then fabbed the sides to fit just inside the a-pillar tubing and have it all bolt to the firewall, and here's how it all turned out. I'm diggin' it

...one of the nicer perks of making my own dash is I can locate in the a-pillar cage cross bar under the dash instead of over top of it ...


...and with the cross bar in place...and thanks to an extra 1.75" clamp from my Rogue Fab tubing bender...the column now has something to mount to ...






...and now...I've cracked the seal on the next major part of the build (emotions are TBD on this one)...

one thing that kind of bothers me on your build, is the "splice" [for lack of a better description] on the A-pillar down bars of your cage.
did you insert any kind of sleeve inside the tubes before this splice was done ? i can't see any evidence of plug welds a sleeve would require.

yep it was fully sleeved and welded - the joints are likely stronger than they were before being cut - I thought about plug welding it too but it didn't seem necessary. If after a few years of wheeling I find I want something stronger I'll do a full 'moly cage, but I'm not there yet - unlikely I'll ever need it.

that makes me feel better !

...working on mounting the center console and Atlas shifter levers, and made another access hatch to get to the t-case side of things -

...Atlas triple sticks, center console, Winters shifter, and heater all figured out -

Used Allstar suspension links (#64305) to thread onto the Atlas shift rods (1/2-20, 3/8 pin), heims, and homemade rods, then 3/8 yoke ends at the bottom of the shifters, then 1/4 heims for the doubler box - works awesome - SO much better than using Morse cables etc. Mounting the fuse block is next...







Generic Summit Racing heater, #991108 - should work great -

did you use the nylon bushed heims ?

...no I don't think so (honestly not entirely sure) - they're just heims I had in a bin

found a fun way to mount the fuse block - made a hinged panel that tucks up to the roll bar, then just loosen a thumb screw to release it to swing down and towards the driver for easy access/mnx -