...connected to that awful sounding door ajar buzzer that most have unplugged. That'll get your attention.

👍👍🤣🤣🤣🤣

i had a good friend that always said, The door is not A JAR, its a door Why couldn't they say, the door is OPEN

those awful sounding door is [not] a jar buzzers work great for use in diagnosing/trouble shooting/installing [new] wiring components as a means to see or find which wires are hot or shorted to ground.
i have several in my box with different clips and/or terminals i have used for many years.
they work great, especially when working by yourself, as i most often do.

I think I got it, bought an A-body safety latch off Ebay, only $30.
Much cheaper than an E-body part, and was hoping it's shorter, but not the case.
My hood already had holes for the latch, but the header panel is much lower for some reason, so the latch contacted the catch opening before fully closing.
I relocated my trans cooler down 1", cut down the latch by 1", and trimmed the latch hook radius so it doesn't interfere.
But this things works! Hood comes up 4-5" and catches.
It's not pretty, I wish I could weld, but it will do for now.

Now if I just had the balls to try it without the pins in...........

Not to be negitive but If the hood is lifted up with a bit of force that fiberglass holding the saftey latch is a goner.

Looks good.
You did the hard part.

Should be someone in your circle that can weld. If not then mail it to someone here who can do it and send it back to you.

That is a small weld job. Wouldn't take much.

Do NOTE "My hood already had holes for the latch,"

that would depend on the strength of the fiberglass and how it's attached. I'm thinking the glass is pretty thick /strong in that area. Looking at the nearby holes seems to confirm that
If not it can be reinforced several ways.

Why would you want to try it without the pins , why?
NOT ME

easy-peasy job for sure.
could be taken apart at the rivets, a piece added for the correct length, a filler piece added in the front, then weld the piece[s] together, making it appear as a single piece.

That's a good point, hadn't thought of that.
The fiberglass header portion is pretty thick, but I'm pretty sure it would be be good for <50mph.
Up at highway speed, 70-80mph, probably gonna be a problem.
So you got me thinking, I might need that pressure switch to trigger a buzzer deal to really idiot proof this thing.
Buzzer will go off immediately, and the latch will give me enough time to slow down.

I'm getting trained to look for that pink ribbon, so all this may be unnecessary, but then again, never thought it would have happened in the first place.

I appreciate all the replies, wealth of knowledge here is awesome!

I'll say if one doesn't notice the hood lifting at lower speeds then there is not much force being generated or they're not paying attention. I'd run it as you have it unless you want to finish it with welds etc.

I would suggest 2 TWO as in 2 rubber tarp straps.... I can attest if you only use one it will let you down at some point.