Hello,

I plan to go to Mopars at the park in Fox Lake on the 25th. You?

I'll have my fury at the C body show at Volo the day before, probably not going back up on sunday unfortunately

I'll try to stop by Volo, it's only 20 min away from me.

you'll be a hit! I've had to take my 68 Charger to it twice while the Fury was down.

A work in progress but my next thought was, make a shroud for the radiator inlet. So, any lower air intake either goes through the radiator or is blocked off rather than turning the front end into a parachute.

I did somthing similar, but I did it the Dirty white Boy way LOL, I used plastic sheets, blocked the sides from the grill to the core support similar to how the Z brackets are on a Daytona between the headlight buckets & sealed the top , it works great, but not near as SEXXY as what you built. you have great skills !!!!!!

i did something similar to my charger.
however, i built a cover that attaches to the factory tray above the headlights, and runs the full length of the tray to the core support. it will be removable in one piece.
these shots are during construction. it is completed, however final metal work is not done, and i don't have any recent pics.

AWESOME !!!!!!, IF & when I do a Daytona nose I will do something like Y'all both did, love it !!!!!!

I guess this kinda falls under aero mods.

Engine temp is cool as can be but noticed when logging on the street that the intake air temps were really toasty. (of course worse on some of the 90deg days). 50-60deg above ambient.

No big surprise considering the chrome dome pulls all the air from the bottom edge and all radiator air blows directly at it.

I struggled with making a decision on how to approach this. Pulling air from the grille was too tight and a rather torturous air path. Pulling from the corners of the cowl plenum was easy but I didn't like the look. Made some templates and the thing looked huge while covering up much of the engine.

Decided on cowl plenum. A bid tedious/difficult to make the duct from the firewall to the cowl plenum (not to mention cutting the cowl plenum with a mirror) but all turning out nice so far.

Cut hole in firewall, installed perimeter nutserts-



Made flange for the piece I cut out of the cowl plenum, then made a duct from the firewall to the flange. (this was a bit difficult, did it with poster board templates)



Duct built. The inlet is larger than the outlet so had to make a removable plate to get it through the firewall-




Finish welded, painted and installed-




The stamped base I've been using didn't seem like it would flow very well. Big step at the bottom perimeter and no radius into the throttle bodies-



I got a couple of drop bases, sheet aluminum and started cutting, welding and bead rolling.

Cut the chrome dome and cut out the top plate. More to come

Nice

Very impressive!

nice fabrication.

Cool stuff!

Nice but how are going to deal with the engine movements/vibrations? You definitely need a flex duct between the air box and your cowl...
Didn't NASCAR use some leather joints for that?

Craftsmanship on this thread is very nice.
On Op's? solution with that ducted, internal air flow, it would concern me. I'd love to see an IR camera record heat distribution across the radiator at speed.
I have never been a big fan of Nascar style cowl inlet, felt it was compromise by Nascar to maintain a stock look.
This is my solution to this issue, not shown I believe is an under hood horizontal CF panel that separates intake air flow from rad air.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/2730519/Searchpage/1/Main/137322/Words/%2B62+%2BPolara+%2B500+%2BCruiser+%2B55/Search/true/re-62-polara-500-cruiser.html#Post2730519

Thanks guys. Nice work on the Polara. I have less than 1/2" from the radiator support to under the hood. No good path for airflow there (for me).

This seemed to be the best solution for maintaining a stock look. (and I was always impressed by the amount of airflow from the interior vent ducts when open)


The radiator duct concerns you? Pretty similar to what a lot of newer cars have from the factory and it sits right at thermostat temp in any weather.

I would think an inner wind vane would lower my concern here. I can't see the upper half of the rad, which has the hottest inlet water, and cooling efficiency is all about the temp delta, that top half would get the air flow it needs with the steep upward curve in the air path.
I'll repeat it is very nice execution.
On the polara, I lowered the rad 2" and moved Rad back 2.5" to get the height sufficient that I could move enough? intake air over top of the radiator, and deepened the upper now removeable Rad crossmember before flanging the 5 air intake holes that feed the underscoop?
I'm also a student of anything that can be lowered should be, and anything to equal F/R weight distribution is also a good thing, especially anything in front of the front axle.

Oh heck, let me pontificate here why I frown on cowl intakes on high-speed cars.
Let me first point out, it has widely been confirmed in most PU's aero drag is less when an empty bed is driven with the tail gate up. Reason being seems to be there is a built-up air bubble in the bed that guides the over the cab air somewhat gently relatively in a downward slope, but over the tailgate, leading to less drag.

On the front of the car there are two areas of highest drag/disruption, grille area, and the windshield. Modifying windshield slope/rake is very difficult. The air flowing over the grill is in initially an upward trajectory (low pressure area, unsettled air flow) and as it then begins over the hood and it then turns back slightly downward as it moves rearward. the windshield is a large obstruction to this now downward flowing air, it makes I suspect a bit of a "bow" wave, forms a high-pressure bubble and that starts to turn this air back upward were it flows over the top edge of the roof line (like the PU bed example above). The steeper that air attacks the windshield the larger the next bubble (low pressure) forms over the roof, before it starts to curve downward again before it reaches the rear window.

My concern is the cowl engine air intake can only decrease the windshield high pressure bubble in the cowl area mentioned above, making more air strike the windshield at a steeper angle and therefore a larger low pressure area form above the roof.

I am not addressing the benefits of cold air intake, which can also be found in numerous other places, nor why Nascar sticks to this location from the early 60's today, other than their windshields are now highly raked, and it's a great place to insert starting fluid into a hard starting car during a race before EFI, without lifting the hood.

This pic, red high pressure, blue low is informative here IMO, but does show the typical low pressure at the front of the hood most larger less aero grilles that sedans usually have.

Understood what you're thinking on the vane for the radiator but not really concerned since it literally could not run cooler. (and that doesn't exist on any oem bottom feeder shrouds that I've seen)

As for the cowl induction I'm thinking if the base of the windshield is a high pressure area, allowing the engine to ingest that pressure lowers vehicle drag.

Polara induction looks like it would work great and I considered pulling from the grill as well but ultimately wanted to keep the aesthetics more stock (ish)