Re: Starting a rebuilt engine out of the car
[Re: 1970RT]
#3162672
07/24/23 11:15 AM
07/24/23 11:15 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,801 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Master of nothing...
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Master of nothing...
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,801
Benton, IL.
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I have ALWAYS pre-run my engines before final installation. It doesn't take anything elaborate. I used to start engines sitting on an old truck tire. The only precaution is to make sure it doesn't roll over. Done it many times without any issues. Your proposed set-up will work okay too, given a few precautions.
I think it is important to run the engine up to temp a few times before that final install. I check for any leaks, break the cam in, catch any mechanical issues, etc. And I wait until after the pre-run to paint the thing in case something needs unbuttoned.
There is plenty of time to 'seat' the rings after it's up and running in the car. I have never had an issue after install doing it this way.
Of course, this is not the only way to do it. But has ALWAYS worked for me.
Master, again and still
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Re: Starting a rebuilt engine out of the car
[Re: DaveRS23]
#3162677
07/24/23 11:28 AM
07/24/23 11:28 AM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,497 nowhere
Sniper
master
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master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,497
nowhere
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I have ALWAYS pre-run my engines before final installation. It doesn't take anything elaborate.
Except how to use the starter. All my cars are manuals, so not an issue, for an automatic though.
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Re: Starting a rebuilt engine out of the car
[Re: Sniper]
#3162893
07/24/23 08:28 PM
07/24/23 08:28 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,801 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Master of nothing...
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Master of nothing...
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,801
Benton, IL.
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I have ALWAYS pre-run my engines before final installation. It doesn't take anything elaborate.
Except how to use the starter. All my cars are manuals, so not an issue, for an automatic though. Just buckle up the tranny with the cooler lines looped. No biggy. Besides, it helps to steady the engine.
Master, again and still
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Re: Starting a rebuilt engine out of the car
[Re: 1970RT]
#3163111
07/25/23 03:09 PM
07/25/23 03:09 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,235 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,235
north of coder
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O.K. I will set-up a radiator and loop the trans. coolant lines. Still have to fill the trans. with fluid. What electrical things do I need to connect to fire it up (besides the obvious like the starter, distributor, ecu and coil)? Do I need a complete engine harness hooked up to fire it up? you could add an alternator and voltage regulator, thereby insuring the battery used would continuously supply a 12 volt supply to the ignition system used. when some systems get below 10-11 volts, they can misfire, causing issues with the break in, unless you plan on doing the break in using 10 minutes or so segments. [recharging the battery between segments] the only other engine harness items that i can think of that are factory supplied, [other than AC] are the electrical oil pressure and water temperature indicators. i'm assuming [and we all know what THAT means ] you will be monitoring those items with a set of gauges of your choice. mechanical gauges need nothing more than hooking to the appropriate supply outlets on the engine, while electrical gauges will require a 12v source, a ground, and a sending unit wiring harness for each gauge being in use.
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Re: Starting a rebuilt engine out of the car
[Re: stumpy]
#3163183
07/25/23 07:55 PM
07/25/23 07:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,801 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Master of nothing...
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Master of nothing...
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,801
Benton, IL.
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Why do you need to loop the trans lines if the trans doesn't pump in park? Just curious. But if you fill the trans you will need to plug the tail shaft. It can still move enough fluid to make a mess. Looping the cooler inlet and outlet is just a good precaution.
Master, again and still
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Re: Starting a rebuilt engine out of the car
[Re: 1970RT]
#3163187
07/25/23 08:12 PM
07/25/23 08:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,801 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Master of nothing...
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Master of nothing...
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,801
Benton, IL.
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O.K. I will set-up a radiator and loop the trans. coolant lines. Still have to fill the trans. with fluid. What electrical things do I need to connect to fire it up (besides the obvious like the starter, distributor, ecu and coil)? Do I need a complete engine harness hooked up to fire it up? You really only need the ignition powered to run it along with the starter wiring. And that hook up will depend on what ignition you are running. But no matter what ignition you have, it is a simple wire or two. I use the black lead on some jumper cables for the heavy ground for the starter. You will likely need the alternator on it to drive the water pump. But you don't have to hook it up if you don't want to. Running the engine will draw very little juice. The only real draw will be the starter when cranking. Personally, I do not power up the alternator during pre runs. Just more wiring to mess with and the outside chance of something going to ground when you don't want it to. If you are concerned about battery voltage when running dead loss, just hook up a battery charger while it's running. That's what I do. I just want the bare necessities during pre runs. I usually just use jumper wires for the ignition hook up and the starter wires for the starter. And I just hook and unhook the power jumper wire to the ignition for the on/off switch. Simple and fool proof. A mechanical oil gauge is a must. I just have one on a short brass tube or hose. No need to mount it anywhere. A temp gauge is optional IF you have a temp gun which I like to have there anyway. Do you have a priming rod?
Master, again and still
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Re: Starting a rebuilt engine out of the car
[Re: 1970RT]
#3163253
07/26/23 01:25 AM
07/26/23 01:25 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,719 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,719
Bend,OR USA
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I've ran and broke in several new cams in Mopar SB that I had rebuilt by using 4x4 under the front of the oil pan and under the front of the 4 speed tranny, I would hook up a complete stock exhaust system to the mufflers with no tail pipe and run them until they got up to a little over 200F on a mechanical water temp gauge and then shut them off and let them sit to cool down until they were below 160 F and then run them again until I got 30 minutes total run time at or above 1500 RPM, sometimes, depending on the time of the year, I would have to run them 2 or sometimes up to four times to get the 30 minutes total run time. I would use a stock 1970 SB radiator without a fan and no alternator, one short belt that I could force onto both pulleys that would slip a little but would spin the water pump pulley fast enough to circulate the water with no thermostat i did 4 or 5 different motors that way I wouldn't try that on BB or Hemi motors, I would break them in the cars they went into or on the engine dyno testing and tuning them
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 07/26/23 01:26 AM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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