Hemi
#3141184
04/28/23 11:35 AM
04/28/23 11:35 AM
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dart4forte
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Finally, the 241 is ready
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: poorboy]
#3141298
04/28/23 11:07 PM
04/28/23 11:07 PM
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Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
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I’m looking for something. Needs to be a project that someone started but didn’t finish. I’d like to do a Bobber.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3169206
08/20/23 01:39 PM
08/20/23 01:39 PM
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dart4forte
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Been out for awhile, finally got it back home in June
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: poorboy]
#3170764
08/27/23 10:09 AM
08/27/23 10:09 AM
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dart4forte
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I’ve had it for two years. The hemi is for a future project. Not sure what. I’d like to do a Bonneville style 34 Ford with all Mopar drivetrain.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3170998
08/28/23 09:26 AM
08/28/23 09:26 AM
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dart4forte
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Just got my valve covers back from the pin striper. Now, trying to decide what color I should paint the motor
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3171183
08/28/23 07:27 PM
08/28/23 07:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,798 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
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Just got my valve covers back from the pin striper. Now, trying to decide what color I should paint the motor I like that. The rest of the motor has to be red to match the intake, it will make the valve covers stand out even more, and blend everything together.
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Re: Hemi
[Re: poorboy]
#3171581
08/30/23 10:03 AM
08/30/23 10:03 AM
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dart4forte
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Just got my valve covers back from the pin striper. Now, trying to decide what color I should paint the motor I like that. The rest of the motor has to be red to match the intake, it will make the valve covers stand out even more, and blend everything together. Some of the nostalgia guys are telling me to go black.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#3183752
10/13/23 07:29 PM
10/13/23 07:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,078 Central Florida
larrymopar360
Stud Muffin
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I think red or black will look really good. What a cool engine!
Black is better than red in that it doesn't show every little seep of oil around gaskets.
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: Hemi
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#3184355
10/16/23 12:03 PM
10/16/23 12:03 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Mike P
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I'm not going to recommend a color........although I do have a personal preference ![whistle whistle](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/whistle.gif) CVC by M Patterson, on Flickr Depending on the vehicle, in most cases (with the exception of something with a tilt front end) you actually see very little of the engine except intake, air cleaner, valve covers and a bit of the front end. hood latch 1 by M Patterson, on Flickr 57 354 by M Patterson, on Flickr Just an old mans . .
Last edited by Mike P; 10/16/23 12:05 PM.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3185655
10/22/23 10:03 AM
10/22/23 10:03 AM
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dart4forte
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I'm not going to recommend a color........although I do have a personal preference ![whistle whistle](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/whistle.gif) CVC by M Patterson, on Flickr Depending on the vehicle, in most cases (with the exception of something with a tilt front end) you actually see very little of the engine except intake, air cleaner, valve covers and a bit of the front end. hood latch 1 by M Patterson, on Flickr 57 354 by M Patterson, on Flickr Just an old mans Is that a 241? . .
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3186453
10/25/23 03:12 PM
10/25/23 03:12 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Mike P
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".....Is that a 241?......" Nope. First one is a 55 331 Bored to 354. Second one is a 55 331 bored to 341. Third is a 56 354 bored to 364. They do run. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnleOpDyuJ8.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Moparite]
#3190585
11/13/23 10:26 AM
11/13/23 10:26 AM
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dart4forte
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Thanks guys, I think the red is the winner. Now I’m gathering the nit noy parts. I have the engine, fresh trans and a rear end. Now I need a car. I’m kinda doing this basackwards.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: poorboy]
#3191349
11/16/23 12:55 PM
11/16/23 12:55 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Mike P
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“……..I have the engine, fresh trans and a rear end. Now I need a car. I’m kinda doing this basackwards…..”
Yeah, kind of the boat I put myself in. I rebuilt the 354 that’s on the stand and went thru a 46RH and had started looking for a body (was kind of looking at 55-56 Dodges or Plymouths) but had held up on the rear end till I picked up a body. Probably a good thing I didn’t find one as the direction for the project kind of changed and I decided I wanted something a little less conspicuous to serve daily driver duties. I ended up with 68 Valiant 2dr Sedan (X big block drag car) that should do nicely.
“……Lots of pretty good deals are starting to show up on those older Mopar (and other brand) bodies & projects…….”
I agree with poorboy, the bottom seems to be starting to drop out on older cars again. It actually kind of surprised me the prices stayed as high as they did for as long as they did.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3191964
11/19/23 09:43 AM
11/19/23 09:43 AM
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dart4forte
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“……..I have the engine, fresh trans and a rear end. Now I need a car. I’m kinda doing this basackwards…..”
Yeah, kind of the boat I put myself in. I rebuilt the 354 that’s on the stand and went thru a 46RH and had started looking for a body (was kind of looking at 55-56 Dodges or Plymouths) but had held up on the rear end till I picked up a body. Probably a good thing I didn’t find one as the direction for the project kind of changed and I decided I wanted something a little less conspicuous to serve daily driver duties. I ended up with 68 Valiant 2dr Sedan (X big block drag car) that should do nicely.
“……Lots of pretty good deals are starting to show up on those older Mopar (and other brand) bodies & projects…….”
I agree with poorboy, the bottom seems to be starting to drop out on older cars again. It actually kind of surprised me the prices stayed as high as they did for as long as they did. Yeah, I was at Goodguys yesterday. There were a couple of car for sale but as usual high priced. My twisted mind started to get the best of me when I was looking at a 57 Chevy roller. This Stude struck my fancy, kinda like the Bobber type pickups and being an orphan would make a good candidate.
![Name: 6B2F2EDE-81D2-4094-AA77-457A3384CC77.jpeg
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Last edited by dart4forte; 11/19/23 09:46 AM.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3192136
11/20/23 08:16 AM
11/20/23 08:16 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,349 Oregon
earlymopar
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Looks like an International...
Last edited by earlymopar; 11/20/23 08:17 AM.
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Re: Hemi
[Re: earlymopar]
#3192142
11/20/23 09:34 AM
11/20/23 09:34 AM
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dart4forte
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Looks like an International...
Yep, International a bit stretched. It’s a little bit of this and a little bit of that. Never could pin down the owner.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Ply36]
#3195062
12/03/23 10:21 AM
12/03/23 10:21 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
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Excellent!! Another 241 in our midst. A couple of things i've used on my 241 that you might consider, if you haven't already done so; Sanderson block-hugger headers and Mallory ignition. The stock exhaust manifolds are the most hideous, god-awful creations on the planet. There were no clearance problems with the headers going into my '36 Plymouth.
Good luck! Already on it. Picked up a set of Sanderson headers at Good Guys swapmeet several years ago. Never used. I have several distributors but not a Mallory. The guy who sets my distributors up also does carbs. He’s doing a WCFB to bolt on that early Offy manifold.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3195962
12/07/23 07:57 PM
12/07/23 07:57 PM
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dart4forte
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I’m looking for something. Needs to be a project that someone started but didn’t finish. I’d like to do a Bobber. Found a guy today that has a 51 Ford sedan. It’s a running car. Currently has a 351 Windsor. Never seen an early Hemi in one of those.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3196725
12/11/23 03:37 PM
12/11/23 03:37 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Mike P
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I think that would be an interesting build. The physically smaller Dodge Hemi (compared to Chrysler) might be a good fit for it. Not sure what style pan would be needed to clear the suspension but as I recall there were some different options that would fit the 241.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3197024
12/12/23 06:29 PM
12/12/23 06:29 PM
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dart4forte
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Theresa front sump on the motor right now. We had to modify the pan for the 340 oil pump will fit. I’ll start looking for another pan soon. I have a modified pickup that will work with the rear sump as well as a Dodge truck pan to act as a doner.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3198744
12/19/23 09:38 PM
12/19/23 09:38 PM
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dart4forte
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Finally got the water crossover sorted out. Took a stock water pump and wacked off the crossover. Ended up with a small “D” shaped hole where the pump mated to the crossover. Finally found a shop that woul work with cast iron. Ended up brazing a plate over the hole. I figure the crossover is not under pressure should be fine. Put some water in to see if I have any leaks.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3199171
12/21/23 04:29 PM
12/21/23 04:29 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,167 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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the crossover should have the same pressure as the rest of the cooling system, 12-18lbs. you could test the crossover by bolting plates to the ends, then using a chunk of bicycle tube with the valve stem, clamp one end to the inlet of the crossover, with the other end of the tube chunk clamped to a solid piece of plastic, metal, wood, whatever. use lots of clamps on the tube chunk so that the tube doesn't just blow up because it isn't contained. [that sounds way more complicated than i described] then fill the tube with 20-25lbs of air and check for leaks. i have used this method for over 40 years, and it works great ! ![beer beer](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/beer.gif)
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Re: Hemi
[Re: moparx]
#3199408
12/22/23 01:28 PM
12/22/23 01:28 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
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dart4forte
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the crossover should have the same pressure as the rest of the cooling system, 12-18lbs. you could test the crossover by bolting plates to the ends, then using a chunk of bicycle tube with the valve stem, clamp one end to the inlet of the crossover, with the other end of the tube chunk clamped to a solid piece of plastic, metal, wood, whatever. use lots of clamps on the tube chunk so that the tube doesn't just blow up because it isn't contained. [that sounds way more complicated than i described] then fill the tube with 20-25lbs of air and check for leaks. i have used this method for over 40 years, and it works great ! I should be good to go.Didn’t gat and drips so looks like it’s fine. Need to get a water pimp on order. I decided to run a more modern carb so I got an Offy adapter to run an AFB. When I get it all sorted out and running I may run a WCFB but for now bigger fish to fry. I need to buy the adapter for the fresh 46RE I’m going to run.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: poorboy]
#3200728
12/29/23 04:29 PM
12/29/23 04:29 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Mike P
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Nice work on the water crossover. I did the same thing on a 331 Hemi water pump years ago. The hole in the bottom of the crossover wasn't too big so I just brazed it closed. Worked out great until I converted to a thin timing cover and short water pump, The 331 water pump came to a point in the center of the crossover and it interfered with the WP pulley. FWIW I used a Hot Heads for the 331/46RH combination on my 37, and have bought another one for the 354/46RH I'm trying to stuff in a 68 Valiant. It's the same one that will work on your Dodge. Not cheap but it's a good unit. I think you'll like the 46RH. The .69 OD ratio lets you run a lot deeper gear than you would suspect. I was running 4.56s in the 37 Dodge pickup. In OD the effective ratio was 3.15 which allowed it to comfortably cruise at 75-80 MPH. For the 354/46RH going into the Valiant I'm looking at a 4.30 gear which will put put the final ratio in OD at 2.96. Deep gears make small engines a LOT of fun ![up up](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/thumbs_up.gif)
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3200873
12/30/23 11:28 AM
12/30/23 11:28 AM
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dart4forte
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Pretty happy so far. Going to modify front timing cover bolts to 3/8” next week. This should give we plenty of strength for that front cradle mount. Not sure on the final gear ratio as of yet. I’m pretty much ass backwards on this project. Assembled the drivetrain before settling on the car. Looked at couple of potential cars yesterday. One was a 1929 Stude PU. Pretty cool but it was all original right down to the wire wheels. Way too much fabbing for me. I’m looking for more of a stab and go setup.
On the 46RE I haven’t settled on the adapter but it will most likely be the HH setup. Yes, they are real proud of their stuff but I know it works.
Last edited by dart4forte; 12/30/23 11:33 AM.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3200893
12/30/23 12:29 PM
12/30/23 12:29 PM
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dart4forte
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Anyway, still on the March to find a home for the drivetrain. Not many Dodges out there with most being utter junk with no hope of resurrection to really nice rods. Haven’t given up looking for a roller however I’m open to more options. One is the do a Walter/Henry rod or maybe piss off the Chevy crowd with a Mopar powered Chev rod adorned with Mopar related parts. The whole plan is to be different.
Anyway, I was at our Friday afternoon gathering. I ran into this guy with the old Ford Hotrod. What caught my attention was the 348 he was running. Proportionally that motor is pretty close to that of the baby Hemi with the Hemi weighing close to what the SBC weighs. The guy invited me over to his place next week where he has some rollers that are available. The guy is in his mid 80s and is totally old skool
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3201431
01/01/24 02:26 PM
01/01/24 02:26 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Mike P
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I mis-read your answer about the transmission you're going to run. I thought it was an RH instead of an RE. Just wondering what kind of controller you are planning on for the transmission?
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3201527
01/01/24 11:36 PM
01/01/24 11:36 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
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Last edited by dart4forte; 01/01/24 11:39 PM.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3202343
01/05/24 12:35 AM
01/05/24 12:35 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,620 Motor City
6PKRTSE
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master
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Motor City
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My street rod dream is a 41' Willys with a 2nd Gen Hemi.
1963 Belvedere 440 Max Wedge Tribute 1970 Charger R/T S.E. 440 Six Pack 1970 Challenger R/T, 528 Hemi 1970 Charger 500 S.E. 440 4 BBL 1970 Plymouth Road Runner 383 1974 Chrysler New Yorker 440 1996 2500 RAM 488 V-10 4X4 2004 3500 Dually Cummins 4x4 2012 Challenger R/T Classic.
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Re: Hemi
[Re: moparx]
#3202883
01/07/24 01:59 AM
01/07/24 01:59 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
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6PKRTSE
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My street rod dream is a 41' Willys with a 2nd Gen Hemi. with 8-71 blower of course ! Of course, forget to add that as well.
1963 Belvedere 440 Max Wedge Tribute 1970 Charger R/T S.E. 440 Six Pack 1970 Challenger R/T, 528 Hemi 1970 Charger 500 S.E. 440 4 BBL 1970 Plymouth Road Runner 383 1974 Chrysler New Yorker 440 1996 2500 RAM 488 V-10 4X4 2004 3500 Dually Cummins 4x4 2012 Challenger R/T Classic.
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Re: Hemi
[Re: 6PKRTSE]
#3202897
01/07/24 09:14 AM
01/07/24 09:14 AM
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dart4forte
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Saw this yesterday while on a rod run. More ideas
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3202951
01/07/24 12:06 PM
01/07/24 12:06 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
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moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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a 392 with a blower would be cool as well. in fact, i have two 392's on the shelf i had planned to combine into one to install into my 33 dodge panel truck, however, the cost to build these things is almost out of my price range, and i don't think i have enough birthdays left to save up enough to build one like i would want to. i am now pondering whether to sell them or not. i have seen a couple of complete examples with blowers installed at carlisle over the years for less than 10k, but while that looks like a good price, i wonder what one would find upon tear down for a check and refresh ? that might reveal a "not so good a deal after all.........." ![beer beer](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/beer.gif)
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Re: Hemi
[Re: earlymopar]
#3203208
01/08/24 02:44 PM
01/08/24 02:44 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185
Mesa, Arizona
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Those are very rare, true magnesium "Lemans" wheels made by American..... I was admiring those wheels
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3219697
03/11/24 10:54 AM
03/11/24 10:54 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185
Mesa, Arizona
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Went to the HEMI show here in Phoenix, good show. Anyway, walking through the swap and came across this. Greg from SS/AFX has it at his swap spot. He knew it was early Hemi but didn’t know which Hemi. He’s a GenII Hemi guy. I took one look at it and seeing it was small, had to be a small Red Ram. Did some checking and it was. So, after trying to dig up the money I took it off his hands. Got it home and fitted it right up, fits like a glove. Ole Greg gave me a good deal on it.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3219832
03/11/24 09:02 PM
03/11/24 09:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,620 Motor City
6PKRTSE
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,620
Motor City
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Very cool intake. I love multi-carbs on anything. Even my Hemi in my car and for my next build.
1963 Belvedere 440 Max Wedge Tribute 1970 Charger R/T S.E. 440 Six Pack 1970 Challenger R/T, 528 Hemi 1970 Charger 500 S.E. 440 4 BBL 1970 Plymouth Road Runner 383 1974 Chrysler New Yorker 440 1996 2500 RAM 488 V-10 4X4 2004 3500 Dually Cummins 4x4 2012 Challenger R/T Classic.
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Re: Hemi
[Re: 6PKRTSE]
#3219895
03/12/24 08:24 AM
03/12/24 08:24 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530 AZ
Mike P
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530
AZ
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That intake looks right at home on the HEMI. A little time in a bead blast cabinet and it will look brand new. Carbs may be a bit pricey but at least they are available.
Nice score.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3219984
03/12/24 02:20 PM
03/12/24 02:20 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185
Mesa, Arizona
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That intake looks right at home on the HEMI. A little time in a bead blast cabinet and it will look brand new. Carbs may be a bit pricey but at least they are available.
Nice score.
Yeah, no kidding on being pricey. $1500 pricey and that doesn’t include all the things need to set up like linkage, return springs, gaskets etc. But hay, it’s just money.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3220166
03/13/24 12:45 PM
03/13/24 12:45 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,167 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,167
north of coder
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That intake looks right at home on the HEMI. A little time in a bead blast cabinet and it will look brand new. Carbs may be a bit pricey but at least they are available.
Nice score.
Yeah, no kidding on being pricey. $1500 pricey and that doesn’t include all the things need to set up like linkage, return springs, gaskets etc. But hay, it’s just money. well, "ya can't take it with ya".............. ![biggrin biggrin](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/biggrin.gif) cool intake score regardless ! ![beer beer](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/beer.gif)
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3220571
03/15/24 10:40 AM
03/15/24 10:40 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185
Mesa, Arizona
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That intake looks right at home on the HEMI. A little time in a bead blast cabinet and it will look brand new. Carbs may be a bit pricey but at least they are available.
Nice score.
Yeah, no kidding on being pricey. $1500 pricey and that doesn’t include all the things need to set up like linkage, return springs, gaskets etc. But hay, it’s just money. Continued my research. Looks like there’s adapters available to run Rochesters.
Last edited by dart4forte; 03/15/24 10:44 AM.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: poorboy]
#3220582
03/15/24 11:18 AM
03/15/24 11:18 AM
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,887 South Bend
John Brown
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,887
South Bend
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Yeah, they didn't just call Strombergs 'leakers' for no reason.
July 19th should be "Drive Like Rockford Day". R.I.P. Jimmie.
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Re: Hemi
[Re: poorboy]
#3220797
03/16/24 12:38 PM
03/16/24 12:38 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530 AZ
Mike P
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530
AZ
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Rochesters definitely have advantages over the old Stromberg’s. One of the biggest problems on the Strombergs was using too much fuel pressure, they can only take 2 ½ - 3 PSI without blowing thru the needle and seat. After looking at the prices for people are asking for 2G Rochesters (especially outboard carbs) I’m not sure you will be saving much over the Strombergs. There may be some cheaper options with the Rochesters however. Often times rebuildable units can be found for a few bucks at swap meets etc. They’re a simple carb to rebuild and even modify for outboard use. I’ve played with Rochester Tri-Powers since the 70s, you may already know all this stuff, but just in case: The first thing I’d look at is the carb spacing on the manifold to make sure the Rochesters will physically fit. The Dodge motor is shorter than their Fire Power cousins so that might be an issue. The Rochesters 2 Gs come in 2 basic flavors, the small base and the large base. You will want the small base version based on you engine displacement (and it’s what the adapters are set up for). This is the Tri-Power I built and ran on my 354 Hemi for several years. It’s set up with a large base 2G center carb and small base outboard carbs. If you look closely you can tell the center carb (the large base) is physically larger than the outboard carbs. The intake is set up with progressive linkage and the larger center carb is the one the engine runs on the majority of the time. The larger carb was used on this car to improve drivability when only running on the center carb. The linkage is set up so that the outboard carbs don’t open till about 80 MPH when cruising on level ground. T2 by M Patterson, on Flickr Generally speaking the majority of small base carbs have the fuel inlets on the side (although there were a few made with front inlets) and the large base units feed from the front. The large base unit shown here has had the original inlet capped and was drill and tapped on the side of the filter housing for a new inlet. I normally don’t run filters in the carburetors, but rather rely on a good in-line filter. If you go with Rochesters I would recommend 3 small base carbs with side inlets and progressive linkage. If you use Strombergs you could probably get by using stock units with synchronized linkage due to the small CFM of the Strombergs. T1 by M Patterson, on Flickr On true Rochester Tri-Power outboard carbs there are no idle or transition circuits nor are there any idle adjustment screws. There is also normally no power enrichment circuit or valve. The lack of idle and transition circuits make it much easier to get a good idle out of the engine (idle adjustments are all handled with the center carb). The idle and transition circuits are in the base plate of the carburetor. Back when I started playing with Tri-Power setups factory outboard carbs were almost impossible to find so I ended up modifying base plates from standard 2G carbs myself. I modify the base plates by soldering the idle and transition passages and idle adjustment screw hole closed. I generally leave the stock power valve operational. The last step is to insure the throttle plates completely close. From the factory many of the throttle plates are not properly centered in the bore. This is solved by loosening the throttle plate screw and centering the plates. On a side note, some of the small base Rochester 2G carbs stopped using screws and went to rivets to secure the plates to the throttle shaft…..I usually stay away from those. If you want to avoid the hassle of messing with the base plates they still sell outboard 2G base plates separately. One of the down sides of the Rochester 2Gs is the lack of jets available for them. My experience is that the majority of them came with 48s in them and that actually seems to be a good all around size (although you might want to try 46s if you can find them). I’ve taken this car from 4500 feet where I live to 200 feet back in Illinois and the jetting seems about right…….although I do usually retard the timing a bit when I get back to Illinois. As far as air filters based on your engine size you can probably get by with the round 4 5/8” units that are popular. I’ve personally found on anything above 325 CI, those air filters seem to choke the engine (with progressive linkage that filter has to handle all the air going to the engine until the outboard carbs open. Years ago I found larger air cleaners for VW powered sand rails. You had a choice of a centered or offset base so I picked some up. They fit well on this setup. AC 1 by M Patterson, on Flickr Although my normal go to air cleaner are the repop Ford dual quad/tri-power units. T3 by M Patterson, on Flickr One last thought on running a Rochester setup with progressive linkage and the bases without idle circuits. You will have to nail the throttle every once in a while (never been a problem for me LOL). Especially with the crap gas we currently get the gas in the outboard carburetors can get stale and varnish up……opening the end carbs once in a while will ensure they are filled with fresh gas.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3221017
03/17/24 12:54 PM
03/17/24 12:54 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185
Mesa, Arizona
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Rochesters definitely have advantages over the old Stromberg’s. One of the biggest problems on the Strombergs was using too much fuel pressure, they can only take 2 ½ - 3 PSI without blowing thru the needle and seat. After looking at the prices for people are asking for 2G Rochesters (especially outboard carbs) I’m not sure you will be saving much over the Strombergs. There may be some cheaper options with the Rochesters however. Often times rebuildable units can be found for a few bucks at swap meets etc. They’re a simple carb to rebuild and even modify for outboard use. I’ve played with Rochester Tri-Powers since the 70s, you may already know all this stuff, but just in case: The first thing I’d look at is the carb spacing on the manifold to make sure the Rochesters will physically fit. The Dodge motor is shorter than their Fire Power cousins so that might be an issue. The Rochesters 2 Gs come in 2 basic flavors, the small base and the large base. You will want the small base version based on you engine displacement (and it’s what the adapters are set up for). This is the Tri-Power I built and ran on my 354 Hemi for several years. It’s set up with a large base 2G center carb and small base outboard carbs. If you look closely you can tell the center carb (the large base) is physically larger than the outboard carbs. The intake is set up with progressive linkage and the larger center carb is the one the engine runs on the majority of the time. The larger carb was used on this car to improve drivability when only running on the center carb. The linkage is set up so that the outboard carbs don’t open till about 80 MPH when cruising on level ground. T2 by M Patterson, on Flickr Generally speaking the majority of small base carbs have the fuel inlets on the side (although there were a few made with front inlets) and the large base units feed from the front. The large base unit shown here has had the original inlet capped and was drill and tapped on the side of the filter housing for a new inlet. I normally don’t run filters in the carburetors, but rather rely on a good in-line filter. If you go with Rochesters I would recommend 3 small base carbs with side inlets and progressive linkage. If you use Strombergs you could probably get by using stock units with synchronized linkage due to the small CFM of the Strombergs. T1 by M Patterson, on Flickr On true Rochester Tri-Power outboard carbs there are no idle or transition circuits nor are there any idle adjustment screws. There is also normally no power enrichment circuit or valve. The lack of idle and transition circuits make it much easier to get a good idle out of the engine (idle adjustments are all handled with the center carb). The idle and transition circuits are in the base plate of the carburetor. Back when I started playing with Tri-Power setups factory outboard carbs were almost impossible to find so I ended up modifying base plates from standard 2G carbs myself. I modify the base plates by soldering the idle and transition passages and idle adjustment screw hole closed. I generally leave the stock power valve operational. The last step is to insure the throttle plates completely close. From the factory many of the throttle plates are not properly centered in the bore. This is solved by loosening the throttle plate screw and centering the plates. On a side note, some of the small base Rochester 2G carbs stopped using screws and went to rivets to secure the plates to the throttle shaft…..I usually stay away from those. If you want to avoid the hassle of messing with the base plates they still sell outboard 2G base plates separately. One of the down sides of the Rochester 2Gs is the lack of jets available for them. My experience is that the majority of them came with 48s in them and that actually seems to be a good all around size (although you might want to try 46s if you can find them). I’ve taken this car from 4500 feet where I live to 200 feet back in Illinois and the jetting seems about right…….although I do usually retard the timing a bit when I get back to Illinois. As far as air filters based on your engine size you can probably get by with the round 4 5/8” units that are popular. I’ve personally found on anything above 325 CI, those air filters seem to choke the engine (with progressive linkage that filter has to handle all the air going to the engine until the outboard carbs open. Years ago I found larger air cleaners for VW powered sand rails. You had a choice of a centered or offset base so I picked some up. They fit well on this setup. AC 1 by M Patterson, on Flickr Although my normal go to air cleaner are the repop Ford dual quad/tri-power units. T3 by M Patterson, on Flickr One last thought on running a Rochester setup with progressive linkage and the bases without idle circuits. You will have to nail the throttle every once in a while (never been a problem for me LOL). Especially with the crap gas we currently get the gas in the outboard carburetors can get stale and varnish up……opening the end carbs once in a while will ensure they are filled with fresh gas. Thanks Mike, what you have provided has been helpful. I’m going to start collecting up all the necessary things I’ll need to convert to the Tri power. In the meantime I have the 4 barrel setup on the motor I’ll use for initial fire up and breakin. I can get by using the 4 barrel for awhile while collecting up everything I need for the Tri power. Hell, I still need to find a car to put this motor in.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3221197
03/18/24 10:43 AM
03/18/24 10:43 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185
Mesa, Arizona
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Just wondering if there’s an all in one kit available for someone wanting to run a Rochester setup. With all the cars I’ve seen running triple carbs, GTOS, SBCs, streetrods I would think there’s someone out there offering such a kit.
Oh, haven’t seen your PU lately, still have it?
Last edited by dart4forte; 03/18/24 10:44 AM.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3221232
03/18/24 01:53 PM
03/18/24 01:53 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530 AZ
Mike P
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530
AZ
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It used to be the Barry Grant (six shooter) was the guy/system that was the Tri-Power go to for a lot of people. I believe he was bought out years ago however. When I do a search for Tri-Power, what mostly comes up is E bay and that’s always a crap shoot. I did come across this site, but know nothing about them. http://hotrodcarbs.com/store/rochester-tri-power-carburetors.htmlI ended up selling the little 37 Dodge truck a while back, in part to finance the HEMI/68 Valiant project and to free up shop space for that project. .
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3221436
03/19/24 01:36 PM
03/19/24 01:36 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185
Mesa, Arizona
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It used to be the Barry Grant (six shooter) was the guy/system that was the Tri-Power go to for a lot of people. I believe he was bought out years ago however. When I do a search for Tri-Power, what mostly comes up is E bay and that’s always a crap shoot. I did come across this site, but know nothing about them. http://hotrodcarbs.com/store/rochester-tri-power-carburetors.htmlI ended up selling the little 37 Dodge truck a while back, in part to finance the HEMI/68 Valiant project and to free up shop space for that project. Wow, I liked that little truck. Did it stay local? .
Last edited by dart4forte; 03/19/24 01:53 PM.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: dart4forte]
#3221479
03/19/24 04:42 PM
03/19/24 04:42 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530 AZ
Mike P
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530
AZ
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".....Wow, I liked that little truck. Did it stay local?....." No, the last time I saw the little truck, it was on a trailer headed for the east coast. Moving on by M Patterson, on Flickr It looks like the 57 Plymouth may be leaving this weekend. My current project is too new for this sub-forum (the 68...hell it's only 56 years old) you guys may not let me hang out here any more LOL.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3221489
03/19/24 05:27 PM
03/19/24 05:27 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185
Mesa, Arizona
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Oh no Mike, you are always welcome at least by me
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: moparx]
#3222038
03/22/24 05:31 AM
03/22/24 05:31 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530 AZ
Mike P
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530
AZ
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I was really just joking about not being allowed to hangout on this sub-forum……ya ain’t getting rid of me that easy LOL. I do appreciate the kind words though. Dart4forte, I’m not sure how comfortable you are with rebuilding a carburetor, but the Rochester 2Gs are about the simplest ones to go thru. You’d asked about a complete kit and I came across this one today. s-l960 by M Patterson, on Flickr It’s sold by speedway thru their E bay store. Type in “Universal Rochester 2-Jet 2G Tri-Power 3x2 Carb Kit” on E Bay. Don’t know if there is any price difference between E Bay or their store so I’d check both places. They sell it with and without linkage. The kits are about 450 and 350 respectively. This kit includes the correct base plates for the end carbs and the shafts are extended to move the progressive linkage to the passenger side, along with an extended shaft for the center carb. You still have to provide the 3 rebuildable carbs. Since almost all of the old mom and pop junk yards are long gone, there are only about 3 sources left for carburetors. The easiest and most expensive would be to order 3 rebuilt carburetors. You can always go E Bay shopping but my experience is the 2Gs you find there are usually way over priced. My favorite source was the swap meets. You always run into the guy who thinks every junk 2G is a tri-power carb and will try to get $50 and up for them…..in most cases you can find the guy who is just trying to clean their shelf off and are a lot more reasonable. Back when I was setting up tri-powers (and the 6X2 on the 37 Dodge) I’d snatch every small base 2G I could find that was $10 or under, and there were a lot of them. The nice thing about the 2Gs (both large and small base) is now days it’s pretty easy to find the original application for the Carb. Unless it’s a really early carb with a metal number tag, the carburetor number is stamped on the passenger side of the fuel bowl. You can see the numbers on the picture of the Chevy tri-power that shows the fuel lines. Type number into a search engine and usually one of the first results will be the application (division, year and engine displacement). Most of the Rochester small base carbs you come across will probably be Chevrolet. In most cases the choke on these will be external (a heat stove cast into the intake with a rod running up to the choke plate). These work great for the end carbs but can be problematic to get an automatic choke on. If you’re real lucky you may come across one of these. They were normally found on Pontiac and Oldsmobiles (and even a few Jeeps). On the small base carbs equipped with integral choke they are normally mounted on the top cover (unlike the large base carbs where the choke is normally mounted on the base). Don’t worry if the choke isn’t electric, all it takes to convert it is the correct electric choke which can be bought separately (which I did on the 2 tri-powers shown below). SB EC by M Patterson, on Flickr Personally I prefer to run my linkage on the drivers side, that way I don’t have to worry about building it around the fuel lines or choke but that’s me. As I mentioned the linkage on my HEMI tri-power is based on the 60s Ford tri-power. The front slide pulls front carb open and the real slide pulls the back carb open. The turnbuckles came from the local hardware store and the ends were just flat stock with a slot cut and welded to the threaded end of the turnbuckles. AC 1 by M Patterson, on Flickr This is my Small block Chevy tri-power that I’ve run on several engines, from 283 to 383 stroker (I also converted it a large base center carb way back when it was on the 383). I took a different approach for the progressive linkage on this one. 2 by M Patterson, on Flickr You’ll notice the linkage is mounted high up on the center carb and low on the outboards. This causes the outboard carbs to open quicker and ideally all three carbs reach wide open throttle t the same time. The linkage is completely adjustable so that both end carbs start opening at the same time. On the Chevy setup the top rod is adjustable to set the tip-in point on the end carbs. The bottom rod is adjustable so that it can be set to drop in the holes when both carbs are closed (too short or long and one or both of the carbs will be slightly open at idle). I could have made it non –adjustable but I found that if the end carbs are removed and put back on there is just enough slop in the carb mounting hole that they might shift from where they had previously been and the rod will need to be adjusted slightly. This linkage was just build out of some old linkage pieces I had laying around and an eye bolt from the hardware store that was the right size for the top rod to slide thru. For fuel lines the simplest is probably just a fuel block and lengths of fuel line. If you’re trying to replicate an engine built in the 50s this is probably the way to go and they look kind of neat looking with the colored translucent fuel line that was popular back then. One caution on the clear or colored lines though…..most are not rated for ethanol fuel (E10/E15). You can swear up and down you’ll never run anything but not ethanol gas in it, but what are you going to do if our on empty and ethanol is all the station has. The picture was taken the day I swapped over to dual quads so the intake was pretty nasty after a decade of being on the car. T2 by M Patterson, on Flickr Personally I do prefer hard-lines, they’re simple to make if you have a good tubing bender and double flare kit. The tubing and fittings are pretty inexpensive. A variety of fuel blocks can be found on E Bay and the price isn’t usually too bad. T1 by M Patterson, on Flickr Or you could go the route that Mopar took with dual quads (and as I recall the six pack setup)……a hand full of brass fittings and some pieces of tubing. 3 by M Patterson, on Flickr You might notice on both setups that between the fuel lines and electric choke it would start getting real crowded on that side if you add the progressive linkage. A quick word on carburetor kits. I’d stay away from the cheap Amazon rebuild kits. They are absolute junk. Spend the extra money for a good kit from NAPA or similar. Doing your own work on the carburetors bases, building your own fuel lines and linkage you could probably set up a set of tri-power carbs for under $500. That would include the core carbs, rebuild kits, air cleaner(s) and electric choke. Anyway this was just a few more thoughts. .
Last edited by Mike P; 03/22/24 05:36 AM.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: Mike P]
#3222080
03/22/24 10:31 AM
03/22/24 10:31 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185
Mesa, Arizona
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I was really just joking about not being allowed to hangout on this sub-forum……ya ain’t getting rid of me that easy LOL. I do appreciate the kind words though. Dart4forte, I’m not sure how comfortable you are with rebuilding a carburetor, but the Rochester 2Gs are about the simplest ones to go thru. You’d asked about a complete kit and I came across this one today. s-l960 by M Patterson, on Flickr It’s sold by speedway thru their E bay store. Type in “Universal Rochester 2-Jet 2G Tri-Power 3x2 Carb Kit” on E Bay. Don’t know if there is any price difference between E Bay or their store so I’d check both places. They sell it with and without linkage. The kits are about 450 and 350 respectively. This kit includes the correct base plates for the end carbs and the shafts are extended to move the progressive linkage to the passenger side, along with an extended shaft for the center carb. You still have to provide the 3 rebuildable carbs. Since almost all of the old mom and pop junk yards are long gone, there are only about 3 sources left for carburetors. The easiest and most expensive would be to order 3 rebuilt carburetors. You can always go E Bay shopping but my experience is the 2Gs you find there are usually way over priced. My favorite source was the swap meets. You always run into the guy who thinks every junk 2G is a tri-power carb and will try to get $50 and up for them…..in most cases you can find the guy who is just trying to clean their shelf off and are a lot more reasonable. Back when I was setting up tri-powers (and the 6X2 on the 37 Dodge) I’d snatch every small base 2G I could find that was $10 or under, and there were a lot of them. The nice thing about the 2Gs (both large and small base) is now days it’s pretty easy to find the original application for the Carb. Unless it’s a really early carb with a metal number tag, the carburetor number is stamped on the passenger side of the fuel bowl. You can see the numbers on the picture of the Chevy tri-power that shows the fuel lines. Type number into a search engine and usually one of the first results will be the application (division, year and engine displacement). Most of the Rochester small base carbs you come across will probably be Chevrolet. In most cases the choke on these will be external (a heat stove cast into the intake with a rod running up to the choke plate). These work great for the end carbs but can be problematic to get an automatic choke on. If you’re real lucky you may come across one of these. They were normally found on Pontiac and Oldsmobiles (and even a few Jeeps). On the small base carbs equipped with integral choke they are normally mounted on the top cover (unlike the large base carbs where the choke is normally mounted on the base). Don’t worry if the choke isn’t electric, all it takes to convert it is the correct electric choke which can be bought separately (which I did on the 2 tri-powers shown below). SB EC by M Patterson, on Flickr Personally I prefer to run my linkage on the drivers side, that way I don’t have to worry about building it around the fuel lines or choke but that’s me. As I mentioned the linkage on my HEMI tri-power is based on the 60s Ford tri-power. The front slide pulls front carb open and the real slide pulls the back carb open. The turnbuckles came from the local hardware store and the ends were just flat stock with a slot cut and welded to the threaded end of the turnbuckles. AC 1 by M Patterson, on Flickr This is my Small block Chevy tri-power that I’ve run on several engines, from 283 to 383 stroker (I also converted it a large base center carb way back when it was on the 383). I took a different approach for the progressive linkage on this one. 2 by M Patterson, on Flickr You’ll notice the linkage is mounted high up on the center carb and low on the outboards. This causes the outboard carbs to open quicker and ideally all three carbs reach wide open throttle t the same time. The linkage is completely adjustable so that both end carbs start opening at the same time. On the Chevy setup the top rod is adjustable to set the tip-in point on the end carbs. The bottom rod is adjustable so that it can be set to drop in the holes when both carbs are closed (too short or long and one or both of the carbs will be slightly open at idle). I could have made it non –adjustable but I found that if the end carbs are removed and put back on there is just enough slop in the carb mounting hole that they might shift from where they had previously been and the rod will need to be adjusted slightly. This linkage was just build out of some old linkage pieces I had laying around and an eye bolt from the hardware store that was the right size for the top rod to slide thru. For fuel lines the simplest is probably just a fuel block and lengths of fuel line. If you’re trying to replicate an engine built in the 50s this is probably the way to go and they look kind of neat looking with the colored translucent fuel line that was popular back then. One caution on the clear or colored lines though…..most are not rated for ethanol fuel (E10/E15). You can swear up and down you’ll never run anything but not ethanol gas in it, but what are you going to do if our on empty and ethanol is all the station has. The picture was taken the day I swapped over to dual quads so the intake was pretty nasty after a decade of being on the car. T2 by M Patterson, on Flickr Personally I do prefer hard-lines, they’re simple to make if you have a good tubing bender and double flare kit. The tubing and fittings are pretty inexpensive. A variety of fuel blocks can be found on E Bay and the price isn’t usually too bad. T1 by M Patterson, on Flickr Or you could go the route that Mopar took with dual quads (and as I recall the six pack setup)……a hand full of brass fittings and some pieces of tubing. 3 by M Patterson, on Flickr You might notice on both setups that between the fuel lines and electric choke it would start getting real crowded on that side if you add the progressive linkage. A quick word on carburetor kits. I’d stay away from the cheap Amazon rebuild kits. They are absolute junk. Spend the extra money for a good kit from NAPA or similar. Doing your own work on the carburetors bases, building your own fuel lines and linkage you could probably set up a set of tri-power carbs for under $500. That would include the core carbs, rebuild kits, air cleaner(s) and electric choke. Anyway this was just a few more thoughts. . Thanks for all the info, really helpful. I’ve got to get down your way, maybe in the fall when the temps start backing off. Just a matter of getting off my [censored].
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Hemi
[Re: BDW]
#3222136
03/22/24 01:55 PM
03/22/24 01:55 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530 AZ
Mike P
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,530
AZ
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dart4forte can probably give a more definitive answer, but I would guess VSS is probably handled by a transducer connected at the speedometer output on the transmission and TPS is likely a separate unit connected to the gas pedal.
At least that's how it worked on the Compushift mini I used on a 46RH I had in my 37 Dodge.......naturally neither were included in the basic kit price and had to be purchased separately.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Hemi
[Re: BDW]
#3222490
03/24/24 10:43 AM
03/24/24 10:43 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,185
Mesa, Arizona
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Looks interesting, but how do you get VSS and TPS on a retrofit? I haven’t given it much thought lately. Originally I thought I was Getting a 518 when I ordered the trans. The RE is what I got. I’ve given it some thought lately about selling what I have and just going Gear Vendor. Another option is to finding a core 518 and having Huges which is local R&R it. I favor the 518 in that it’s much more simpler being it runs off the fluid pressure vs electronic controls. Priority is finding a roller project to start. The Monster people steered me to the vendor people back when I received the trans. I probable need to contact the vendor and get info on the installation.
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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