Issue 1-machining
Called a couple of machine shops going to be a couple months out to get it in. The machine shops in my area are far and few between, and only a few with really good reputations. This will likely push me to try my hand at honing.

Issue 2-rings
With the piston cut for Dyke, what are my options for rings?
Basically, is there a plug and play option I can call and order?
Or will the piston need to be machined in order to accept a “normal” ring package?

Thanks for the help.

Where in KY are you?

If you are going to hand hone the cylinders use a hone like this. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-15000-...;hvtargid=pla-4583520395219740&psc=1

And you need a dial bore gauge to check your work. https://www.amazon.com/Dial-Indicator-Bore-Gage-Industrial/dp/B0B84QSCYF/ref=sr_1_51?crid=2Z81L1WUGC13H&keywords=dial+bore+gauge&qid=1678971333&sprefix=dial+bore+gauge%2Caps%2C242&sr=8-51&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc

And can you reuse those rings? Depends, but the rings are designed to wear into the cylinders, the cross hatch pattern is there to hold oil so this process happens without developing too much heat in the bores. I have done what you described and got away with it in a pinch. And don't worry about getting all the minor pits and scratches out of the bores. I always leak test a new engine on the stand as a base line. You most likely will lose a few percent of leak, and maybe a few HP as well. But it will run. On my race car I don't really see a big loss in ET until the leakage gets to 30% or worse. When new cold on the stand I want 10% or better. Of course if you gap the rings for nitrous you will get more leak.

cross hatch is wayyyyyyy off
This ^^^

Rings see a shallow cross-hatch angle (less than 10 degrees) as a series of speed bumps. Caused by not moving the hone up & down fast enough.

I'm in Bowling Green.

Like I said above when I did a leakdown with it cold on the shop floor I was at 90-92, which I thought I would be good to go. The only reason I took it down as far as I did was to check bearings. When I rolled it over I noticed almost all the piston skirts were scuffed so I went ahead and took the pistons out. Then when I saw the corrosion in the cylinders and the low degree on the crosshatch I begin to rethink putting it back together without touching anything. This is not an all out racing effort, I run a low key Saturday night program at Beech Bend, hit most of the test and tunes and go get ice cream on occasion, last year I put a 100 passes on it.

I have the Lisle 1500 and a couple of dial bore gauges (.0005 and .0001).

Again, I really appreciate all the input.

Lot of things going on here that aren't optimal. The other part of the equation is low budget. Dykes rings dont grow on trees. Macining the piston for different rings is a very precise machining operation. Cylinder walls aren't great and probably aren't straight. My take? Hit it with a ball hone and put it back together. It is what it is. It'll run fine. Make optimal power, no.
I'll bet there are thousands of bracket race engines that aren't any better.
Doug

I measured the pistons tonight, and the rings are 031 Dykes (which are nearly impossible to find) The top groove measures .075, if I have them cut to accept a 1/16 ring, how tall does the groove need to be? .0645? That should leave a little undercut above the ring which I’ve read can still help the ring seal.

What are the recommendations for rings and where to get them?

I made a couple of practice hits with the hone on my old block. I bought a variable speed controller but it doesn’t go down far enough as I am having a hard time controlling my speed. If I can get it slowed downed at a consistent speed the 45 angle is much easier to get otherwise your stroke rate has to be very aggressive. I’m probably in the 25-30 degree range now.

Machining the piston groove depth depends on ring radial thickness. This is a very precision machine operation. In my opinion unless you spend big bucks with area o Diamond,or someone similar you’ll have a mess. Better off just using your current top ring. The 2nd ring is basically an oil scraper. You could always just buy a set of 2nd rings since they look pretty worn. Your leak down didn’t look that bad. I’d run it.
Doug

I use a variable speed 1/2 drill it has a threaded button to control how far you can pull the trigger. If I remember right about 300 rpm's is the right speed or as you said you have to plunge the drill very fast up and down if it spins faster. From experience be careful if you hit the main bearing web with the hone the drill will wrap you up. I taught engine rebuilding at a technical college for 26 years the students tore up so many hones I bought this travel limiter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/225482665263 It was also a safety thing I was worried they might break some fingers.

Maybe I'm paranoid but any time you have something that laps, wears in, whatever, with another component, I don't believe in re-using it. I have never used Dykes rings but the rings I've used have a pattern on the face that pretty much disappears when they seat themselves.

What's the largest bore size you can use that stop on? I can't find any listing on the web other than the eBay one.

I’m 90% with you at this point but I do want to quickly explore cutting the piston. I have access to machinist just not an automotive machinists, which means I have to tell them exactly what I want - width and depth. I sent pictures and talked with one of them and he indicated that what I was asking appeared straight forward and that he would need to make the tool to do the cut. I am actually taking him a piston Monday just to confirm. I have had them do quite a few parts for me over the years and thus far everything has worked great. I do see where this one has a much larger window for error. After he looks at them in person, I will have a better feel for whether or not I want to venture down this road.

I think I am going to go ahead and order a set of rings, worst case I return them. So if you guys could point me in a good direction for rings (both a full set and a 2nd ring set) that would be helpful, plus having the ring in hand may help with the machining decisions. If If I order today, I can more than likely have them by Tuesday next week. My goal is to start assembly next weekend be it a new 2nd ring on an untouched cylinder or all new rings in a honed cylinder or something in between is still up in the air.

Will something like this my best bet?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-cr919060

I surely wouldn't touch those pistons and I see no reason to touch rings with leakdown under 10%. Put the thing back together and have some fun. Don't make this expensive and time consuming.

Pretty much agree. Either fix it correctly or don't mess with it. But ME... i'd send the pistons to Rebco have a convo. He'll answer all the concerns you have aired here. Depending on where the bore cleaned-up, i might coat the skirts. Rebco can gas port cheap too...maybe put a napier second and fix the ring pack however he recommended. how is P-2-V? all these things I'd consider MYSELF but it sounds like your after a budget build. Odd because it looks like there may be some good pieces there.

I am going to follow the path of least resistance and just put it back together. The only thing I catch myself debating is whether or not to lightly hit it with a ball hone.

If you are determined to re-use the rings, kiss the bores with a ball hone. You need some profile on either the rings or the bore to get them to re-seat.