So I are saying an engine doesn’t need a timing curve as long as the RPM is 5000-9000k? I don’t see it that way.

Why would it?

Why not baseline it at max timing and control any desired retard from there electronically according to when and why it is desired? That's what most people are doing.

Pulling power out of it is the only reason to pull timing on a race situation. Taking the ignition trigger out of the distributor and putting it on the crank is always better. If you can't do that, a locked distributor is the next best option. Although, you will still have timing chain slack, cam twist, gear clearance, oil pump load, etc., causing some degree of scatter to deal with.

Ok. I won’t lock one out. The OP is NA, and he didn’t say he’s running 9k. Lock out whatever you want. But the laws of Physics that govern combustion chamber dynamics doesn’t change.

I have heard of the circle track guys running a curve. They say the cars pull harder out of the corners, but i dont think we are talking circle track stuff here.

The only reason for a curve in a race car is to start it. If you can start it with it locked have at it.

I've never had a trans brake and have always foot-breaked and always prefered locked out for the above reasons. But the current combo in the car has a curve in it because at anything over 28 it won't start.And running it at 27 was burning the coating off my headers. Otherwise I would have left it there.

I use a programmed curve as I have a crank trigger - for starting it starts at 25 then it goes all in at 32 at 1200 RPM - I also use a curve at the top end to slow it down for the index - when it hits third gear it pulls the timing back over a prescribed time - works great at scrubbing 2 tenths !

If I wanted to get creative I could use it for traction control off the launch - but I have not yet..........

Mine uses a crank trigger. Fixed timing@35. 15-1, 580". It cranks with no retard, the ignition on, with one single16volt. Ran it with two 12volt in the pastas well. Tough the single 16volt is way better.
Doug

Some ECU won't fire the coil until the starting of the third crankshaft revolution I've been told
Any motor I have had that had 19 BTDC timing or more at idle or start up would kick back against the starter, even broke the nose off of one starter when it kick back against it

Buddy of mine has an engine shop, does a lot of late model dirt stuff, as well as drag and resto. Good stuff. I'm going to have to call him tomorrow and see what he does now.

That would be awesome. I’d love to hear what he does.

William Baldwin at Baldwin carbs is who i'm speaking of. He has a distributor machine for dialing the curve in.

He’s the guy that called me out for locking out distributors on this very forum.

I was so wrong (and he was so right) I went and bought a distributor machine so I can test this stuff and set up a proper curve.

Talked to my engine guy this AM. Legit shop. Do a lot of engines.

Everything he does gets a crank trigger. If the rules don't allow it, distributor is locked. None of "that springs and weights stuff" for many years.

Drag race uses ignition, Grid, whatever for retard, if needed for tire management, nitrous, etc..

Dirt uses crank trigger locked with no gadgets. Some of them will also use a locked distributor with a pickup to run a separate system (box, coil) set up at 4 or 5 degrees retarded they can switch to for when the track slicks up. Or they will slip a restrictor under the carb to take some power out of it before they go out.

That's all I'm saying.

Locked is a safe position: fewer variables.
However: consider coming off the trailer, pit driving, and return road.
If you have a high stall converter, you're (probably) safe.
With tall ratio MT cars, forgetting to slip the clutch that one time, followed by low RPM part-throttle acceleration, will rattle badly.