The thermostat serves another purpose, and that is to regulate the flow rate. Removing it will cause overheating but can help compensate for a crudded up radiator. Pushing the coolant through a good radiator too fast can also cause O/ heating as the coolant may not have enough time to exchange the heat. So I would say yes. remeber you are dealing with several variables. Flow rate, pressure driving the flow, pressure in the system, size of the radiator, air flow through the core, Ambient temps, BTU's being generated, and the the infamous core debate itself. Probably a few others as well but that's a kwik list

interesting on the flow and scale

The "coolant too fast" theory has been debunked dozens of times. Increased flow rate leads to turbulence, and turbulence within a pipe/tube encourages mixing (better contact with the walls to remove heat) and enhances heat transfer performance all the way to the point of physical tube erosion from the fluid velocity being too fast for the material. There have been some potential claimed issues with pumps cavitating, but that has nothing to do with coolant moving too fast in the radiator.

still wondering about those flow cooler pumps, are they the ones with the "circular" vanes about 1/4" tall on a cast round base ?

OK 💨

The originals had a flat plate on the engine side of the vanes. there were "KITS" with a plate and pop rivets available for awhile.

I consider them to be right up the with Slick 50. I was taught to ask if and idea is so good, are the major MFR's adopting it? Think of the warranty savings

This is the one I use

I'm assuming the OP is looking for a "new" radiator. Not sure if the old one needs replaced or just not doing the job. I once had an issue with overheating myself, but it was narrowed down to timing. One the timing issue was corrected, the overheating went away. I should add that the overheating was only at idle or very low RPM

thanks.
the one i'm thinking about might be the milodon pump. [i have not used the google to look, so i guess i need to]

I bought a Milodon HV water pump at Summit and opened it up at the counter and there was a GMB pump in the box Gave it back and they brought me the FlowKooler pump

Gus

This is a completely accurate and more detailed response than mine... there is more than just adding the inches....like dimpled tubes and these things mentioned. Somebody else mentioned air flow, which is also important. You need coolant flow and air flow to cool the engine

I have a 22" 3 core champion on my 600hp hemi and it cools great.

[size:11pt][/size] Well this will not be the first time, and absolutely not the last, that I over think something. About half of the cars we run around with, can go for hour and a half to two hour cruises to a show, but won't last 20 minutes in a parade.

A 4th of July parade will certainly test a cooling system, especially if your behind the HS band with the AC running, and the car was running with the AC cranked up, while you were waiting for them to set up the parade to get started.

That sir is not a radiator problem, but rather a lack of air flow through the radiator . A bigger radiator may help a bit, but the root cause is air flow,

Again

Somewhat related to this overall subject, when using an electric fan (puller, 1 or 2 fans), some fan shrouds are solid, while others have small venting slots or flappers around the otherwise solid shroud areas. I'm considering to get an electric fan (1 or 2), that would have a fan shroud. Any preference/suggestion on the design of the shroud? This would be for my aluminum triple-flow US Radiator, 22" wide (fitting my core opening)... runs hot while road racing/autocrossing, but cool in regular street or hwy driving. I've tried different thermostats... no difference when racing.

A shroud with the flappers would be the better option. When the air flow is low, it will still let the fan pull the air through the entire radiator, and at any point the air flow is higher, the flaps open so the fan can't block any air flow. The best of both worlds.

The OEM fan shroud on my 90 Dakota V6 5 speed had a belt driven fan and the shroud had the flappers. That one was the 1st OEM shroud with the flappers I'd ever seen (not that it was the 1st ever, but just the 1st I'd seen).

IMO, You have either an inefficient core for the BTU's being generated or an air flow issue. My bet is on the 1st .