Re: 1 wire alternator
[Re: Rallye_Boy]
#311540
05/08/09 05:36 PM
05/08/09 05:36 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,884 Tracy CA
rabid scott
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"You're Where?"
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Tracy CA
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The one wire alternator is expensive and usually not in stock at your random parts house. Unless you have to have a one wire, I'd use a GM 10si or 12si. I prefer the GM 10si or 12si when I need to use a GM alternator. They are affordable and available in stock everywhere in case you ever need to do a roadside repair, easy to hook up, and come in a variety of amperages. On an off-note, I have an early Chrysler alternator on the '62 Chevy 283 in my Model A. Not many people do that, I bet!
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Re: 1 wire alternator
[Re: Rallye_Boy]
#311542
05/11/09 01:27 PM
05/11/09 01:27 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,884 Tracy CA
rabid scott
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One wire alternators are GM alternators. In fact, I think the single wire alternator is based off the 10si or 12si alternator. Everything you ever wanted to know about 10si/12si alternators is right here: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtmlPart numbers, applications, everything is in this link. If you need any help, let me know. I've wired these up a few times. I've got a 90 amp one in my '57 Chevy truck, and I've even thought about wiring up a 90 amp one in my Challenger just to get rid of the "Chrysler alternator flicker". Heck, if Sam Posey's race T/A Challenger had a 12si, it's got to be good, right?
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Re: 1 wire alternator
[Re: Rallye_Boy]
#311545
05/11/09 02:38 PM
05/11/09 02:38 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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I'm against "one wire" lashups for street use, and you'll find that there are no vehicles (that I know of) that routinely use a so called "one wire" alternator.
The 10/12 SI siries work just fine. If you don't want to run a separate sense wire, they ae easy to hook up. There's "no1" and "no2" on the regulator plug. Just jumper no2 to the battery stud on the alternator, then hook no1 to a keyed ignitions source through a diode.
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Re: 1 wire alternator
[Re: Rallye_Boy]
#311546
05/11/09 05:39 PM
05/11/09 05:39 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,884 Tracy CA
rabid scott
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"You're Where?"
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Quote:
I suppose I will have to customize a mounting bracket too.
What engine are we working with?
Quote:
hook no1 to a keyed ignitions source through a diode.
The diode is important, otherwise you will have a "run on" condition after you turn the key off.
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Re: 1 wire alternator
[Re: Mopar Ron]
#311549
05/12/09 02:00 AM
05/12/09 02:00 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Quote:
hook no1 to a keyed ignitions source through a diode.
The diode is important, otherwise you will have a "run on" condition after you turn the key off.
I found the way around that problem.... you just have to hook the #1 wire to the ACC side of the ing switch instead of the run side Ron...
You don't want to do that. I'll guarantee you --unless these units have been changed electrically by GM--that if you do that long enough you'll blow up a diode trio. I don't remember all the "ins and outs" but there are situations where the diode trio can "try" to become the source (charge, or supply source) and they won't handle much amperage. The original cars had a resistor / lamp combo, so you either need that or the diode.
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Re: 1 wire alternator
#311550
05/12/09 02:24 AM
05/12/09 02:24 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,992 Escondido, CA. Ron Podsiadly,...
Mopar Ron
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Escondido, CA. Ron Podsiadly,...
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
hook no1 to a keyed ignitions source through a diode.
The diode is important, otherwise you will have a "run on" condition after you turn the key off.
I found the way around that problem.... you just have to hook the #1 wire to the ACC side of the ing switch instead of the run side Ron...
You don't want to do that. I'll guarantee you --unless these units have been changed electrically by GM--that if you do that long enough you'll blow up a diode trio. I don't remember all the "ins and outs" but there are situations where the diode trio can "try" to become the source (charge, or supply source) and they won't handle much amperage. The original cars had a resistor / lamp combo, so you either need that or the diode.
I don't know what you mean by "long enough" but last year I had a charging problem and the run on issue and with my 40 dodge PU with the gm alt and I was tring different things with the # 1 wire and the #2 wire and after talking with a bunch of streetrod guys we figured out that the reason it was running when the key was turned off was because it was being feed from the #1 wire to the Ing run side and I needed to either put a lite in line like GM does or just get the power to the #1 wire from the ACC side. so that is what I did and for 8 month now it works just fine Ron..
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Re: 1 wire alternator
[Re: Rallye_Boy]
#311552
05/12/09 11:46 AM
05/12/09 11:46 AM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,884 Tracy CA
rabid scott
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"You're Where?"
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Quote:
what engine are we working with?
360
Make life simple on yourself, get an alternator from a '69 and earlier Mopar. You can use the factory brackets, they only require two wires, a big fat one to the battery positive and one to an external voltage regulator, which hooks up to a 12v power source.
Super, super easy. Like I said above, I adapted one to the '62 283 Chevy engine in my Model A. Early Chrysler alternators look way cooler than any GM piece.
I'll post a picture when I get home.
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Re: 1 wire alternator
[Re: Mopar Ron]
#311553
05/12/09 02:39 PM
05/12/09 02:39 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
hook no1 to a keyed ignitions source through a diode.
The diode is important, otherwise you will have a "run on" condition after you turn the key off.
I found the way around that problem.... you just have to hook the #1 wire to the ACC side of the ing switch instead of the run side Ron...
You don't want to do that. I'll guarantee you --unless these units have been changed electrically by GM--that if you do that long enough you'll blow up a diode trio. I don't remember all the "ins and outs" but there are situations where the diode trio can "try" to become the source (charge, or supply source) and they won't handle much amperage. The original cars had a resistor / lamp combo, so you either need that or the diode.
I don't know what you mean by "long enough" but last year I had a charging problem and the run on issue and with my 40 dodge PU with the gm alt and I was tring different things with the # 1 wire and the #2 wire and after talking with a bunch of streetrod guys we figured out that the reason it was running when the key was turned off was because it was being feed from the #1 wire to the Ing run side and I needed to either put a lite in line like GM does or just get the power to the #1 wire from the ACC side. so that is what I did and for 8 month now it works just fine Ron..
I think you misunderstood. It WILL work "just fine" for ahwile, but you need the diode/ or resistor/ light in there to protect the diode trio in the regulator. By "long enough" I mean "some period of time." Might be a week. Might be a year. I don't remember the mechanics of this failure, but there are/ is a certain condition which can cause the trio to become a source of power and the small trio diodes won't handle the load. This is a well documented failure, and is why the no1 is hooked up this way
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Re: 1 wire alternator
[Re: rabid scott]
#311554
05/12/09 08:44 PM
05/12/09 08:44 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,399 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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north of coder
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Make life simple on yourself, get an alternator from a '69 and earlier Mopar. You can use the factory brackets, they only require two wires, a big fat one to the battery positive and one to an external voltage regulator, which hooks up to a 12v power source.
Super, super easy. Like I said above, I adapted one to the '62 283 Chevy engine in my Model A. Early Chrysler alternators look way cooler than any GM piece.
I'll post a picture when I get home.
and there is an electronic voltage regulator available to replace the original points type. it also is a direct install to replace the original.
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Re: 1 wire alternator
[Re: Rallye_Boy]
#311558
05/19/09 07:18 AM
05/19/09 07:18 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,325 Truckville, the capital of NY
85_Ram_4speed
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Posts: 3,325
Truckville, the capital of NY
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I used a 1 wire 10si before in my old race car, in my opinion,, its just not worth it for dependability/easy to fix if rosadside issues. I never had a problem with mine, but the thought was always in my head. They way to go is the stock system or a regular 10si GM alt in my opinion. I also agree with an above post, the chrysler alternators look sooo much better cleaned and painted up.
Outcast Dodge guy.
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