Found this when searching for issues with plating failing on hydraulic hose ends exposed to the common salt brines used these days to control ice on snow belt roads. I plan to eventually use my 56 Dodge/2001 Dakota as my daily driver up here in east central Wisconsin. So after the cab/box/Dakota cab floor/firwall is done on the 56 I'll need some form of undercoating to make sure the truck lasts for many years to come. I'll install full fender liners and other methods to minimize snow/ice/salt buildiup in the critical areas underneath, but an undercoating will still be needed. I found this product:
If its as good as claimed it could be my choice. Anyone else have experience with really good DIY undercoating to protect our vintage rides from the modern salt brines?
Decades ago Ziebart was the go-to. Not so sure that applies anymore. Ziebart was/is a hard coating that can age, flex, crack. As soon as a crack appears it becomes a salt/moisture trap.
Last edited by Andyvh1959; 01/17/2301:56 PM.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3113014 01/17/2308:27 PM01/17/2308:27 PM
I just bought and tried the NHOU product this past fall, I haven't had it on there yet long enough to tell if it will live up to the hype. I bought a 5 gallon bucket of their black stuff and their estimate was 6 quarts for a 1st time application, I used 10. (1/2 of the 5 gallon bucket) and I didn't get to pull the door panels or the tailgate access panel and get inside those like I wanted to. Luckily we here In the Chicago area have had a mild winter, not as much salt used to this point as A typical winter. And every time I thought they "might" I have left it parked (outside on a concrete driveway) and took my beater Dakota that's already beyond hope anyway.... But I hope it does as they say. The truck I put it in, is a 12 ram 1500 reg cab long bed, former Fastenal truck. I still owe 3 years in a 4 year loan and as expensive as trucks are I sure hope it does as they claim I removed the plastic fender liners, the tail lights and blew out all the leaves and such that I found hiding beneath all that and all the dirt up high into the rear bedsides and blew NHOU as far up into the bedsides as I could reach while I had the truck up on my 2 post lift.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3114137 01/18/2310:28 AM01/18/2310:28 AM
For what it's worth - I have some experience with the Krown rustproofing product. I take my Ram and Durango to a location near me on a yearly basis and they apply it throughout the vehicle. It's a slightly viscous, oily liquid that clings to metal and creeps into crevices well. That's why I think it has held up so well for me and protects areas like pinch welds, fender lips and cavities like rocker panels and cab corners. Those are the areas that I was mostly concerned about.
In my opinion, areas like the bottom of the floorboards which are subjected to water splash and abrasion would do better with something thicker than the Krown product. Even though I haven't seen any rusting on those areas yet, I feel that they need a thicker barrier coating that prevents chips or scratches.
One more thing to mention - if you use the Krown product on interior cavities (like rocker panels), expect some to seep out of the drain holes. That's not a bad thing, it means that the liquid is creeping into all of the crevices. Any product that drains out is easily wiped off and doesn't stain paint. The only thing you need to be careful around is if the product soaks into rubber. It can cause some types of rubber to swell.
Hope this helps.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: mrob]
#3114616 01/19/2306:13 PM01/19/2306:13 PM
Thanks for the detailed responses. When I do my 56 Dodge pickup onto my 2001 Dakota donor frame/floorpan/firewall I may clean and repaint the bottom side of the floorpan, then coat it with pickup bed liner product. Then use some of the products mentioned above to do all the seams, corners, crevices etc to let it creep/seep into those areas. Do either products give off any kind ot smell? I am very tolerant to the usual automotive smells, bodywork smells, fiberglass, etc. My wife, err not much at all.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3114822 01/20/2311:03 AM01/20/2311:03 AM
Hi, The Krown product has a mild smell sort of like vegetable oil. Not pungent or overly strong. Your wife may initially smell it when it drips out of weep holes, but after that you should be fine.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: mrob]
#3115369 01/22/2310:31 AM01/22/2310:31 AM
I use corrosion free, that far north you should be able to find it (its Canadian). Its clear, has no smell, does not drip and is durable. It will still be there in the spring unlike many of the other product I have used.
A quality oil spray is the best thing you can use. Dont use any rubberized product that traps moisture and causes it to rust from the inside out. I have also used Krown, its a thinner product that CF and half of it dripped onto my driveway because it was a new car (painted bottom). Krown may work better on a pre rusted surface?
Last edited by Dart 500; 01/22/2310:55 AM.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Dart 500]
#3115453 01/22/2302:19 PM01/22/2302:19 PM
All great info. Thanks for the perspective on the Corrosion Free versus the Krown and and other products.
I got my 2001 Dakota used from a friend who had bought it new. So it survived ten Wisconsin winters before I took ownership. It had the usual snow belt rust, rockers, bed fender openings, door bottoms. I did my driveway rust repairs the down and dirty way, spray foam, fiberglass, pickup bed liner and paint where exposed. It did ok, looked solid/decent from a distance, but eventually the ravages of rust move on. One thing that did make a difference; I flushed out the areas around the front fenders, around the door hinges areas, other similar areas, let it dry and then sprayed WD40 liberally into those areas. Been doing that since spring of 2011 and it has slowed the further progression of rust.
Once I get my vintage 56 cab/box on my Dakota chassis, I can apply the products above in like manner, and should be able to hold off most of the snow-belt/salt-belt attack. If i were buying a new pickup I would certainly do likewise on a yearly basis and I bet it would survive MUCH better than just being exposed as is from the factory.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3115629 01/23/2310:39 AM01/23/2310:39 AM
I discovered Krown when stationed in North Dakota--it is good stuff in the right application. I still use it on my daily drivers.
It excels inside body panels in tight pinch-weld type of areas that tend to collect water and debris--on top of pickup truck rear wheel wells, inside doors especially on the bottom pinch weld where the skin meets the frame, rocker panels, trunk floor extensions and inner fenders where they meet the quarter panel.
It is not as good in large, open areas like the bottom of floor pans.
It does need re-applied occasionally.
As said above, an oily product that does not dry or harden is your bet bet IMO.
Glad I don't have to work on stuff covered in oily residue.
Can't argue with that, but dealing with oily residue is easier then dealing with crusty rusty residue.
I had a truck that I bought cheap ($1200) that was fairly clean underneath. I mostly drove it through the winter in the salt and slush, then to make matters worse, through most of the summers when it wasn't being used as a truck to haul stuff, it got parked on the grass along my driveway. In a matter of 4 years, the entire bottom of the truck was a dark brown rust color. The rust was bad enough in those 4 short years that nothing bolted together under the truck came apart with out breaking the bolts. I felt fortunate that nothing serious under the truck needed done before the frame rotted out bad enough (at about 6 years) that I junked the truck. From up above the truck looked pretty good, but it wasn't. Not sure an annual oiling would have help that one much, but I could see where it might be helpful with my 49.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: poorboy]
#3115792 01/23/2307:11 PM01/23/2307:11 PM
I used Krown for a couple years then swithched to Rust Check which is the same idea but has been around longer. Maybe 10-12 years ago they started using a different formula for under body that is thicker and lasts longer. No matter what gets used you can definitely see what cars have had some sort of treatment and which ones haven't.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: wingman]
#3184981 10/19/2307:39 AM10/19/2307:39 AM
Glad I don't have to work on stuff covered in oily residue.
A little annoying, yes. But it wipes right off.
I'll take a little oil over working on rust any day.
I've found a side effect of the Krown is that it keeps suspension nuts and bolts and components from seizing.
I guess the corollary is that I am glad I don't live were the state is actively trying to destroy my stuff with salt. Just redid the suspension on my 51 Plymouth, zero rust, zero seized nuts or components.
I can't imagine how y'all put up with that.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Sniper]
#3185493 10/21/2312:23 PM10/21/2312:23 PM
i live in good old putzelvania, and they just LUV to use salt and salt brine to slather over everything. my trusty "bus" [99 caravan] gets a real good "oiling" every year, done by my buddy's shop. it then leaks oil like an old harley until it gets done the following year. i drilled a ton of extra holes in the doors and the hatch, plus above the foam in the dog legs and rockers. i pick a day when it's not raining to get this done. i show up early, then remove all the plugs, plus the tail lights, so the inner 1/4's get a good dousing as well. the hood gets blasted into the forward edge through the crush zone holes. the bottoms of the front fenders have had most of the foam removed, so that area gets hosed good as well. cost is roughly a little over $100.00, depending on his cost of materials. i have WAY more money in oil than i paid for this thing 10-12 years ago ! but it still ain't rusty !
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: moparx]
#3189608 11/08/2311:38 AM11/08/2311:38 AM
I used Por 15 on my rusted framerails on my 69 roadrunner messy but worked pretty well.
OWNER OF EVERYTHING FROM 1956 300 B,IMPERIAL,NEW YORKER HEMIS,AND NEW HEMI TRUCKS.....5TH GENRAMS.COM... 1969/70 ROADRUNNERS ,DARTS/CORONETS, NORTHEAST HEMI OWNERS ASSOCIATION.....WWW.PHANTASMCUDAS.COM....MOPAR FAMILY FOR 50 YEARS AND STILL GOING!MOPAR OWNER COAST TO COAST!!!!
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: rdrnr6970]
#3189904 11/09/2305:26 PM11/09/2305:26 PM
I use a lot of that, I haven't seen a lot of what I've used it for long term (that's been exposed to the elements anyway) but on our Durango I replaced a fender about 10 years ago from a deer strike and I slathered POR15 on the inside of the replacement fender to (obviously) protect it as long as possible and recently I was in there and was looking around, it seems to have peeled on the inner reinforcements behind the battery and I see a good bit of (hopefully only) surface rust on the back side of the fender
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: volaredon]
#3189927 11/09/2306:49 PM11/09/2306:49 PM
Was at the Brown County fair this weekend (grandkids always show their chickens and goats, many blue ribbons again) and in the Commercial Products building I met the originator of PROFleetCare, a rust preventive/containment coating service provider. I mentioned I had planned to use Krown products on my vehicles and eventually on my 56 pickup. He said he worked for Krown and helped them develop the oil/parafin wax spray, and eventually branched off himself to develop the PROFleetCare franchise. What make his service different is they come on site to your vehicle to apply the system. I'll be calling their local franchiser to apply the service on my Kia Sorento, it's only $185 which I think is well less than Krown. Although, I think Krown also puts the vehicle on a lift and sprays/coats the entire chassis.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3252549 08/19/2408:15 PM08/19/2408:15 PM
Yea...I don't have a lift either. I really don't want his over spray, or the dripping of his excess application on my cement driveway either. I don't fit under my truck without lifting it up, don't see how anyone would be spraying or applying anything under my truck, or above my tires and wheels can do so if its sitting on the ground. I believe I would want them to coat the inner fenders, would seem pretty important if they are going to protect my truck. I sure wouldn't think it would be a very good job if they don't at least take the wheels off the truck. If the truck has the suspension hanging on a frame lift hoist, maybe you wouldn't need to take the wheels off.
I wonder how all that will work out?
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: poorboy]
#3252626 08/20/2408:57 AM08/20/2408:57 AM
I'll be finding out. Perhaps he has a heavy tarp to put on the surface and then put the vehicle over it to catch overspray/drips etc. I assume most of what he does with his mobile service for cars and pickups would be to spray inside body panels, fenders. But services like Krown actually put the vehicle on a lift and spray the entire chassis, suspension, chassis components. I've read that cars or pickups treated underneath with Krown look new underneath years and miles later.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3252676 08/20/2412:50 PM08/20/2412:50 PM
as for garage floor protection when spraying the underside, the guys that spray my "bus" [minivan] with their "secret sauce" oil mix every year, just roll out your basic cheap clear plastic sheeting that come on those big, four foot wide rolls that unfold to 8 feet wide after you cut it to the length you need. after spraying, they just roll up the sheeting and toss it in the trash. if more than one vehicle is scheduled for the day, all attempts are made to do them all at the end of the day, so they only need to roll out the plastic one time. when done, they walk out on the grass at the side of the driveway and "wipe their shoes" before going in the office, or getting in the vehicle to move it out of the garage, even though they put down a clean piece of plastic in the vehicle to keep the floor "clean" of what little oil residue remains on their shoes.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: moparx]
#3252867 08/21/2412:21 PM08/21/2412:21 PM
So have you experienced good results on vehicles getting this type of treatment? Worth it? I'm thinking spending about $200 every three years for a treatment program that keeps the WI road salt rot from taking my vehicle bit by bit is worth it. That, or just replace your vehicle every five years. But I can't justify the money spent/lost with every vehicle change. If I like a vehicle I stay with it for well over 100,000 miles at least.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3253051 08/22/2409:37 AM08/22/2409:37 AM
i bought the "bus" back in 2014. it came from arizona to this area [Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania, home of "Punxsutawney Phill the Groundhog, the Prognosticator of Prognosticators"] in december of 2013, and the only rust was was a couple of brown paint blisters where that damn foam is on the bottom of the front fenders. that rotten stuff traps dirt and moisture, and therefor, rust will show up no matter where the vehicle comes from. since it arrived here, it was driven until sometime in january 2014, when the "death pin" holding the spider gears decided to exit the transaxle while the lady i bought it from was leaving a stop sign. this was due to the tiny bolt holding the "death pin" coming loose and falling out, thus causing the damage. this was a recognized design defect, so when i bought a 2002 "bus" to rob the transaxle out of, i purchased a kit from trans-go from the local transmission shop, that contained two little stamped steel brackets that were designed to hold the "death pin" in place, retained by opposing ring gear to carrier bolts. i also bought a shift kit to install in the replacement at the same time. when i tore the replacement down to install the shift kit, i discovered the "death pin" retainers had already been factory installed, so i just removed the tiny retainer bolt and blue loctited it back in place.
anyway, i then had the "bus" oiled up every year since, paying attention to every place the factory [in their "infinite wisdome"] installed foam, and although i have yet to repair the front fender rust paint blisters, they have not gotten any bigger than when i first bought the vehicle. although now oily and cruddy underneath, one can wipe the oily mess from the brake lines and see newish lines under the slime, so i would definitely say oiling the thing every year has been well worth the $100.00 my buddy charges !
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: moparx]
#3253092 08/22/2411:12 AM08/22/2411:12 AM
Good enough testimony for me. I'd rather deal with an oily protectiove coating on everything than with parts rusting permanently together, or made unremovable because of corrosion. Everything I have had to deal with on my 2001 Dakota (bought used from a friend, its enitre life from new in WI) is corrosion related: oil pan, brake lines, steering shaft, caliper slide mounts, trailer hitch, body panels, gas tank mount straps (currently a cheapo ratchet strap redneck repair), bumpers, etc, etc, etc. Oh, and eventually the frame itself.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3253160 08/22/2405:59 PM08/22/2405:59 PM
Just for your information,a couple of weeks ago I bought replacement gas tank straps from Orielly's for my 90 Dakota chassis under my 48 Plymouth coupe (probably the same straps under the Dakotas from 88-03.) They fit and looked like the original straps, except they were brand new. I ordered them at 10 am, and they were in the store by 4pm, cost was in the mid $30 range. The bolts were not available, but I bought a couple of the 3/8" "U" nuts (fit over the holes in the frame like the factory did it) and a piece of 12" long threaded rod and cut it to length for both bolts (3 1/4" studs originally). Add a couple nuts and a couple flat washers, and the entire gas tank strap system was new for under $40.
Pic are what they call U nuts.The first picture is of both sides the U nuts, the 2nd picture is with a bolt through the U nut. These pictures are 1/4" versions, but 5/16" & 3/8" versions are pretty common, and pretty cheap (@ 69 cents each) as well.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: poorboy]
#3253341 08/23/2412:38 PM08/23/2412:38 PM
another option is a nutsert. i have used them in a bunch of sizes up to 1/2-13, and 12 amd 13mm. however, you need a special tool to install them, [think giant rivet gun] plus room to maneuver the tool into position to use and then remove it. if there is access to be able to use the "U" nuts, go with them. they also have the advantage of some slight "adjustability" in the hole they are installed in, being able to wobble around in the front/rear, side to side positioning of them, [or a combination of all] whereas a nutsert is where you drill the hole for installation, and if your retention device [strap or bracket] is off just a little, your only recourse for fit is to drill the retaining hole oversize or slot it. with that said, nutserts [in my opinion] are way ahead in the visual appearance category. quality items of each are very strong and long lasting methods of installing threads where welding in a "backing nut" is impossible or impractical. just my life experience in using large amounts of each over close to 60 years playing with "biggy size" toys, and repairing an infinitesimal amount of screwed up female threads in all kinds of items from automotive to industrial to home. your mileage and results will vary.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: moparx]
#3253424 08/23/2408:51 PM08/23/2408:51 PM
i used the U nuts for the fuel tank straps because that was what Dodge used when they built the truck. I simply replaced what was there already with new pieces.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: poorboy]
#3253494 08/24/2410:22 AM08/24/2410:22 AM
Zero Rust® Primer is a high solids phenolic-modified alkyd coating which controls rust and corrosion by putting down an impermeable barrier at the steel level. Zero Rust® Primer provides maximum adhesion to steel, starving the surface of oxygen stopping the process which converts steel to rust. Zero Rust® Primer is free from lead and isocyanates and is easy to apply over fully or marginally prepared surfaces. Zero Rust® Primer is a single package air dry coating which exceeds 2000 hours in the ASTM-B117 salt spray test.
Zero Rust® Primer is designed for use on new and old steel, rusty surfaces and partially rusted and partially painted surfaces such as decorative metal fixtures, metal railings, barns and metal furniture. This product is not recommended for submersion applications.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Moparite]
#3253946 08/26/2408:09 PM08/26/2408:09 PM
So, according to the directions, "Apply to bare metal, rusty bare metal or to apply it to partially painted surfaces, remove the old finish to bare metal".
You want me to remove the paint from my truck, to put this stuff on to the bare metal?
I'm way past that point, and I'm not going back.
What they are talking about here something you do with an already street driven vehicle to make it last longer, in its assembled form.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: poorboy]
#3254920 08/31/2412:26 PM08/31/2412:26 PM
Last Friday I had my 2019 Kia Sorento treated by ProFleet Care. He came to my home and applied the process (basically the same formulation as Krown) right on my driveway, $180. Of course the proof in the protection will only be obvious when my Sorento, ten years from now through multiple Wisconsin snowy/salty winters, looks as good as it does now when other similar cars are showing the ravages of winter driving. But I do plan to use their services when I have my 56 pickup on the road.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3258839 09/19/2401:59 PM09/19/2401:59 PM
You need to have it applied every fall, its not a one and done. Ive had mine done each fall since 2020 and the best product is corrosion free, its like fluid film but clear, doesnt drip or stink. It still gets on your fingers the next spring. I also did Krown as its thinner and can make the rust thats already there fall off. But it'll be going for another dose of corrosion free soon.
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Dart 500]
#3259175 09/21/2411:00 AM09/21/2411:00 AM
Correct, once per year, maybe every other year at most. Even at $180 per year (assuming he holds pricing for a repeat customer), and if I keep the vehicle for ten years, yes, I'll spend $1800. But if that money means no rust through, no corrosion damage, no ugly vehicle looks with age, and if it holds better market resale value, its money well spent rather than repairs or just accepting a crappy looking vehicle over time.
Once I have my 56 on the road as my daily driver, an application like this makes all the more sense. I can understand a vehicle you only drive on perfect dry days. But really, if I own a vehicle I want to use it regularly, and that may mean some not perfect days too. So to that spending up to $200 per year for this type of protection is actually cost effective.
Last edited by Andyvh1959; 09/21/2411:04 AM.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
Re: Rust protection, is this the stuff?
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3259332 09/22/2410:46 AM09/22/2410:46 AM
i believe i stated earlier, i get my "bus" [1999 caravan] oiled up by my one buddy every year. it has kept the rust monster away, and i'm a firm believer in this stuff, even though it's pretty messy when i need to look at things or do work. i'm not doing this to make my ride worth more, just doing this because it is a strong runner, and will last me [hopefully] for the rest of my driving days, as some years from now, i [again, hopefully] will be looking at 80.