What do you do as far as motor mounts are concerned???


Thanks, Kevin

Holley makes swap motor mounts. But they are soposed to move your engine forward 3 inches to clear the SRV valve on the back of the 6.4 intake.

I made some flat plates to bolt to the block and spaced the factory motor mounts. The Holley stuff moves the engine forward, likely needed for their headers. Header clearance is extremely tight. I have a 87 so there is no room going forward. I also had to notch the cross member quite a bit for truck pan clearance. Only thing I want to do something about is the upper rad hose. The longer front should fix that issue. It has air conditioning and I moved the air filter to the bottom of the fender.

Thanks for the information on Holley. I need to set the engine back, so the holley set-up wouldn't help.

Appreciate it! Kevin

Glen440, the pics are a huge help! Thanks!. I'm dropping a 5.7 into a 55 dodge truck that has a 91 Dakota front half and the 55 back half of frame. I had been told about doing it somewhat along the same method as yours, but the pics make it clear for me.

Have a great day! Kevin

If you are going farther back then you will have better oil pan clearance. I went the cheapest route by getting a factory truck pan and notching the crossmember. The exhaust ports are close to the upper control arm on the passenger side. The lower control arm mount also makes it tight for the header.

I was thinking about keeping the factory exhaust manifolds instead of headers. This is just a driver. Hopefully the wife will drive it. Doing it for her.

At first glance, it looks like the factory exhaust will lay closer to the head than a header would?

The engine came out of a truck, with sump at rear.

What did you use to get the steel plate away from the block? Do I see nuts in the pic?

Did you move the oil filter?

I tried stock 5.7 manifolds from the cars. Not even close. It's 3 inches from head to the control arm. Truck manifold may be better. I used nuts that were bigger than the bolts. I started with washers to get them even. Just happened to be the right length stacking nuts. The oil filter is directly on the block pointing down. I'm using the car front. AC compressor is down low on driver side.

I know i'm asking a bit much, but would you happen to remember the length of the bolts that attach the plate to the block? You werent able to use the factory bolts, right? I think they are aluminum?

I took a measurement of the one spot I can reach. Spacer is just under an inch. Plate is 1/4 inch. So it's a tiny bit under 1 1/4" total. I'm guessing bolts would be around 1 3/4". They are metric from memory, maybe 10mm. No aluminum bolts. Only standard bolts I came across are transmission bellhouse. Was a little tricky bolting the mount to the plate.

The way I came up with the height was I matched the v6. I left the 904 in and kept the Trans at the same height. I think some people raise the engine to get more clearance.

Thanks! I got the plates made and temp installed using the 4 bolts that came out of the 07 truck. They attached the motor mount to the block. I could only use the top two holes and the rear bottom hole in the block. The 4th hole was blocked by the stock dakota mount. I think the three will be enough.....

Appreciate the pics and the measurements. I'll pick up some longer bolts.

Thanks for the info and build pics. I have a 5.7 stroker engine i am going to build and put in my 91 dakota. I was told the holley swap motor mounts were made to move the engine forward to clear the SRV valve on the 6.4 intake. Also the cooler lines on the back of the hell cat engine. On the oil pan have you looked into one for a 5.7 hemi jeep? I don't know if it would fit but it looks like they are a rear sump pan.