[quote=bee1971]Torque to spec on a Transmission pan , why ?/quote]

So you don't strip out the aluminum threads

When I converted my 64 300 to automatic, don't ask, about half the pan bolts were stripped or on the verge of being so. I helicoiled all of them. Lot's of ham fisted goons out there, you can tell who they are because they don't use a torque wrench.

That’s why I said SNUG

What is the torque specs on a transmission pan , I don’t even know ?

I do know if torque to spec on a oil pan , you will squish out or destroy the two cork / rubber gaskets for windage tray

my ACE [only 3 houses away ! ] has heli-coils and ez-loc inserts. the other ACE has those as well, plus time-serts and keen-serts. both stores have inserts for small 6/32 threads up to 3/8 in both fine and course threads, plus metric threads. the other store goes up to 3/4" thread in fine and course thread pitch, plus the big size metric thread pitches.
as said above, you have to go to the store to get the part numbers of the different type of inserts. [both stores also carry riv-nut inserts as well ! ]
they both have cheapo installation tools that will last for a few installations, maybe more if you are very careful with it's use.
at one time, i had a helicoil drill chart on my PC. however, i will have to look to see if it was transferred over to this new one. if it was, i will post it. if not, i will have to figure out how to work my new scanner before i can post the chart. that may take a bit. i don't have any kids around to help me figure out this new wind-hose 11 operating system.

Transmission Pan

150 Inch Pounds

12.5 Foot Pounds

Would like to see what a cork gasket looks like after Torque specs - That’s why I said snug

Maybe most are trying Torque to 150 Foot Pounds

LOL

any time i have tightened up a factory tin pan, using a cork gasket, to 150inlb, the gasket squeezed out bad !
using a cork gasket, i use a 1/4" drive ratchet and snug the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, going around the pan several times until i feel comfortable with the bolts being tight enough to seal with out bending the pan or squeezing the gasket out.
fill the transmission with oil, then get it to operating temperature. [very warm to the touch of my hand on the bottom of the pan]
if it looks like it is seeping, i snug it a little more until it stops. all the while making sure the cork gasket doesn't squeeze out. this may take several attempts to achieve a leek free seal, but it works for me.
i have a cast pan for my charger, and i use the reusable factory gasket for it.
i still just tighten it enough to keep it from leaking.
or, just tighten the bolts up until they strip or break, then back 'em off 1/2 a turn.

heli-coil charts.
enjoy...........

Heli Coil (I think) makes Time-Sert "style" thread repair inserts named Sav-A-Thread that are available at more stores than Time-Sert as an option. But Time-Sert brand is still the best IMO.

Ahh yes the McM bible, if it's not in there it's likely not made

also found the web site for the Ace hardware ones by Ez loc. if any one else is interested

LINKY

Cool idea and they have several styles to choose from. My only concern is a 5/16-18 Thin Wall insert requires a 7/16 -14 tapped hole which is getting up there depending on how much material is surrounding the hole. great idea and one I'll have to keep in mind

If you used a modern reuseable gasket with a steel core you wouldn't have issues like this.

I don’t have issues

My cork gaskets don’t leak

And 99% of 727 transmission pan gasket leaks are not the transmission pan gasket

Thanx

as TJP mentioned, one has to be careful of the surrounding area of the casting or item when deciding what repair insert to use.
if i remember correctly, [there is that "remember" thing again ] the airplane spec for a bolt hole to edge ratio is 2 to 1.
in other words, if you are using a 1/4" fastener, the hole edge "should" be 1/2" away from the edge of the item.
we all know that there is a lot of things on a vehicle that are fastened not following that spec.
just look close and decide for yourself if you have enough meat to drill the required oversized hole necessary for the [chosen] repair insert to work without compromising the item at hand.

and Sniper is right. use the new reusable factory gasket for the [904]A500/A518[727] to help with gasket leaks.
however, it was also mentioned by bee1971 : "And 99% of 727 transmission pan gasket leaks are not the transmission pan gasket"

look at cooler lines and fittings for cracks, as well as the reverse band servo lever pin area. [where the pin is visible where the tailshaft housing bolts to the rear of the case. the o-ring[s] used there can wear out, causing a leak.

Nothing was said about leaks. You complained about cork gaskets squishing out.

I don't have that problem, nor do I have pan leaks. Nor do I have to scrape stuck on cork off the pan or rails.

Those reusable gaskets are real nice.

i complained about the cork gaskets squishing out when torqued to 155inlb.
i don't have that problem [or leaks] using cork gaskets when snugging them up in multiple steps. and i am no where near 155inlbs when the gasket seals using my method.
the reusable factory gaskets are "real nice" as you said.
they are VERY nice in my opinion, and i use them every time i have to purchase a gasket for the pan. the only time i use a cork gasket is when someone supplies it with the filter.

Cork gasket issues led me to using Hylomar. The stuff is awesome since it never hardens and makes most gasket types reuseable.
I even saved a pure RTV gasket with it once.