Thanks for all the things to look for, one other thing though , when i remove the middle bulk head connector and insert only the fusible link in it wont smoke if i connect the battery so this means it something under the hood right?

Snoopy's turn please.

Its all good

Not nec, could require the total load, maybe, notice that the wire is discounected to the alternator when you remove the second plug.

So it is possible it is alternator. Reconnect everything but remove the connection to the alternator.

After you figure everything put a new end onto the fusible link. it will hold better with the correct terminal.

you might grab an inline fuse holder at your parts house for a buck or 2 ,the kind w a pigtail on each end & add 2 alligator clips a large one & a small one & disconnect either batt cable at the battery & put this in series with a 20 or 30 amp glass fuse to protect your baby until you get this sorted out & it might take a 5 pack(or more) but smoking wires is a no no. A circuit breaker would be even better(dont know which type).

Hey guys well i took your advice and checked the alternator before doing anything else and it turns out that the fuel line was actually touching the main bolt on alternator and causing it to short out so i bent it back a little and she works fine. But now i am not getting any spark . I checked the volts to the + side of the coil and its a steady 6.2 but i read it should have 8 ? When this shorted out could it have damaged the coil or ecu?
(btw i did the coil spark test and i am not seeing the spark jump across the gap like it should and the ballast has already been replaced)

Make sure you haven't unplugged the distributor.

um nope, didn't unplug the distributor. Should i be looking at my ecu/coil now? or would they not have been damaged from that short?

• What kind of ignition do you have?
  
• Is the battery fully charged with 12+ volts? many electronic ignition systems will not work below a certain voltage.
• Actually check the voltage (reading) you get on the brown wire at the fuse block when cranking .
• You may have to check the wire harness to make sure no wires melted together, or causing high resistance.
• make sure that fusible link is connected well in the bulkhead as this will surely cause problems too.

Okay i got out to the car today because its been raining non stop here. I have a normal Chrysler electronic ignition with the orange box, yes the battery has been fully charged when i took the readings,there is no visable melting or anything different from before this happend and the fusible link is definitely in its place. I did try the spark test with the coil wire and didnt see any spark so could my ecu or coil been damaged when the wires shorted out?

take the coil negative primary wire off the coil terminal & set it aside(dont let it touch anything). key on, eng off. With a jumper w 2 alligator clips jump from this(coil pri) terminal to ground like morse code & see if you have spark from the coil secondary wire held 1/4" from ground. that's the coil check.In this case not likely dist pickup but if you have a spare dist plug it in(key on,eng off) & spin it by hand & see if you have sparks. this checks the dist pickup. the ECU, you can have your parts house check it but it really needs to be hot for a valid test so If you have another you could sub it in the check the ECU.

Okay i tried both grounding the coil and trying it with a new ignition box and nothing worked, still no spark from the center plug wire. This is really weird that this just happend all of a sudden, should i try a new coil? or should i be looking into my dist?

did you make it with key in RUN ? Ballast good ? Is ECU getting 12 volts at blue traced yellow wire ?

Yes the key was in the run position when i tried it, the ballast is good (i have tried it with 2 different new ones)and the ecu is brand new but how can i check if its getting 12volts? (its hard because the previous owner painted the engine bay with the wires still in it so its hard to tell the original colors of them) Thanks

On the ECU conector the "point" of the pentastar is the 12V feed. On the coil jump 12V to the positive pri terminal(from the batt) & jump the neg pri terminal to ground repeatedly as previously described & see if the coil wire(1/4" from ground sparks). Only have full 12V jumped to it(the coil positive pri) just long enough to do this test(a few seconds).

Ok tried that just now and still nothing. It failed so then its my coil right?

If you disconnected the orig coil neg pri wire for the test before you added the jumper then yes the coil is deceased. the ECU is supposed to default the above circuit in the "open" position but we cannot assume anything.

Corey- I'm not ignoring you. I want you to listen to one person at a time. Hopefully by doing this it will not confuse you anymore than you are.

Yea thanks man i know it can be a little hard to keep track. I tested it with the primary wire on and off and neither one worked so i guess iell try it with a new coil and see what happens. when i turn the key to the run position where should the needle on the ammeter be at? because it looks like it dips below where it normally does but i cant be certain.

When you turn the key on the amp gauge will go to discharge because you are using power and not charging the system.