Looking at picking up a Challenger 1320. What kind of times are you running stock? Do they really run 11.7s stock? And what are some of the best mods? Are you happy with your 1320. And any info you would share to a person about to order one? Thanks

Go to the race section and look at Brad_Haack. He has a new 1320 he has been racing on the regular.

From what I have seen here locally in decent air they go 11.80s or so.

They are right at the 11.80's to low 12's depending on the air density - mine off the show room floor ran 11.97 as a best so far

In good air, with the standard clothe interior w/o passenger seat or rear seat, I'd expect I could see 11.7s in good air where I am (Mid-Atlantic). Bone stock, with the full leather interior upgrade and my 200 lbs in it, my car's squeaked into the 11.8s on one pass and 11.9s on a couple early in the year. Basically, it's a 12.0 car with potential to go a bit quicker or a bit slower depending on the weather / track location / etc.

The only mods I've done are a drop-in K&N filter (which I haven't proved to be an improvement or not) and I picked up some discontinued Race Star Recluse wheels so I can run Mickey Thompson ET Street Front 28-6.00x18 and ET Street S/S 305/40R18 tires the days I drive to the track. The standard Nexen 275/40R20 drag radials worked OK when new and on a well-prepped track. However, they'll get sketchy well before the tread's worn out and any short-sidewall tire is going to have trouble hooking consistently on less-than-perfect starting lines.

The car isn't necessarily faster w/ the MT tires & wheels combo, but it's much more predictable getting off the line. The OEM Nexens would either stick, or they'd hop & spin. My last track day was Saturday and the purpose was to see where I need to set the rear tire pressure w/ the MTs to get a more consistent 60-ft. The lighter front tires & wheels may add a touch of MPH, but the rear tire & wheel setup is also heavier than stock. I'm running less air pressure in the rears now, which may scrub off some MPH. However, if the car won't hook consistently, it doesn't matter to me if it's faster on the passes that it does hook.

I don't know of any cheap "bolt-on" mods for these cars to increase engine performance. And that's not really my intent, either. This is my daily driver that allows me to go have fun at the track while I'm still trying to pull a miracle outta my a$$ and get my '73 Challenger back to the track. Here's a snapshot of all my full 1/4 mile passes, meaning it doesn't include any pass where it simply blew off the tires or the 1/8th mile bracket event I raced a couple weeks ago.

To run 11.70 with the advertised curb weight of 4150 would take 512 HP according to walleracing HP calculator and that don't include a driver or any optional stuff. If you can still run 11.7 with 200 LBS of driver that takes 536 HP, pretty impressive for a "485" HP engine I would say!

Horsepower calculations based on ET never made sense to me. You can improve ET with changes that have nothing to do with HP or weight. The calculations based on weight and MPH are a better approach to estimating horsepower.

I scaled my 1320 with the aftermarket wheels & tires and fuel level well under 1/4 full: the car by itself was 4097. With me and and some extra fuel, it's definitely 4300+. HP calc'd for 4300 lbs at 113 MPH is right about 485, which is the factory rated net HP. That's very close to my baseline for "at sea level" corrected MPH with ETs in the 12.0 range.

Thanks, I like the real world info.

I should also mention that I really like this car. . Pics shortly after purchase and from a recent day at the track w/ the other wheels & tires.

Very Nice!!! I'm kind of hoping Plum Crazy will be back in 2023 models. Haven't heard a thing about color options yet

What am I missing on the 11.8@115.6MPH run? Was it also around 4300 LBS? Is it wrong to pick the best run? Even plugging the 115.6 MPH and 4300 LBS into wallerracing calculator is still over 510HP. I don't see a drop in K&N giving you 25 HP and it is my understanding the calculator is based on wheel HP not flywheel HP. All I'm saying is that in my opinion the 6.4 is very underrated not just in stock form but how easy it is to get more HP when truly un-corked with things like good long tube headers and a better intake and proper tuning that's not compromised for warranty, MPG and emissions considerations.

Best mod for the 392 is a tune from a reputable professional, I've seen as much 30-50hp increases and they can also remove the torque management between shifts (ECU pulls timing when shifting to be easier on the trans), which helps even more than the power increase. They can e-mail you a tune but you'll need a Diablo to install it https://shop.ostdyno.com/shop/

What am I missing on the 11.8@115.6MPH run? Was it also around 4300 LBS? Is it wrong to pick the best run? Even plugging the 115.6 MPH and 4300 LBS into wallerracing calculator is still over 510HP. I don't see a drop in K&N giving you 25 HP and it is my understanding the calculator is based on wheel HP not flywheel HP. All I'm saying is that in my opinion the 6.4 is very underrated not just in stock form but how easy it is to get more HP when truly un-corked with things like good long tube headers and a better intake and proper tuning that's not compromised for warranty, MPG and emissions considerations. [/quote]



Not missing anything these cars are underrated in the HP as advertised - the on-board dyno screen on mine shows HP going over 500 often - the electronics package on the 1320 are pretty impressive - you have a simple tune put in for 93 octane that will get you around 520HP - only issue is an aftermarket tune kills your warranty - supposedly there will be a tune coming from Dodge that can be installed by only a Power Broker Dealer that will up the HP a little and be supposedly maintain the warranty - but I have not heard of the release date yet. The Power Broker thing is real as the dealer has to go through training and qualify staff - hence the reason only a select few were named

There are cars out there that have had mods installed like cams headers, porting etc and are already breaking into the tens - so there is a lot in these cars to unlock

Best "raw data" run bone stock was 11.89 at 113.75 w/ 3/4 tank of fuel. Corrected to sea level that's a 11.94 at 113.41. To be honest, that's something of a "unicorn" run for this car.

Best run to date is w/ K&N drop-in, aftermarket wheels & tires, and about 1/4 fuel level was 11.83 at 115.80, which is 11.87 at 115.6 corrected to sea level. That's by far the quickest & fastest pass to date.

The front wheel assemblies are definitely lighter and reduce rolling resistance; the rear wheel assemblies are heavier than OEM, but the car can hook up more consistently at lower tire pressures. Something in that combination of filter + wheels & tires helps it pull a little more MPH, but it doesn't always show up every run.

Look at the last three runs at Capitol on 3.25, which is the last event I ran "bone stock" w/ OEM Nexen drag radials... the corrected numbers are:
12.08 @ 113.30
12.15 @ 112.73
12.07 @ 112.90

Look at the last four runs from Mason-Dixon on 4.30, which was the aftermarket tire & wheels + K&N filter, where the corrected numbers are:
11.94 @ 113.53
11.99 @ 113.35
11.97 @ 113.50
11.99 @ 114.41

Only the first pass was actually in the 11s that day, and it clicked off consistent 12.0s the other three. FWIW, the fuel level was 3/4+ that day, which is about a half tank more than I run usually on track days.

When you take the differences in track conditions out and standardize them to the same atmospheric baseline, there's maybe a tenth and 1 MPH found w/ the tires & wheels and filter. But you don't see any "unicorn" runs here cuz the good air is taken out of the equation.

Can my full-interior 1320 run 11.8s "bone stock"? Yeah, but it's not a guaranteed thing. I'm still of the opinion -- based strongly on my own data which I don't make any effort to hide -- than a stock "full weight" 1320 is basically a 12.0 car. Pull my front passenger and rear seats and there's maybe 120 to 130 less lbs to haul around, so possibly 11.8s at 114+ w/ me under more typical conditions. Throw my son behind the wheel who weighs 70 lbs less than I do and maybe it's a 11.7 "stock" car w/o needing killer air.

However, having the best ET with this car doesn't matter much to me. Some 1320s seem to go faster, others are comparable to mine. I like the car and it's cool that I can take it to the track, as well as use it as my daily car.

I agree these cars are just fun as a driver and with the MDS getting close to the 24 MPG on the freeway to the track - a race car with a warranty is pretty hard to beat!

for what its worth. I have a 2020 1320. on a nice Saturday evening last summer i was out making a few hot laps on the main road by my house. with the data log going and the HP graph displayed on the dash i saw as High as 525hp on the graph with it holding thru 4th gear. the cars are very underrated. still super fun to drive, on the street or track.

i am still learning this data log thing with its computer, super cool car is worth every penny. in my opinion

There are some 1320s going below 11.7s. It shows their potential.

This one uses the single seat, drag front tires, stock drag radials, engine stock - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csrN-PVWbNg&t=391s

Second one, came with only one drivers seat, drags wheels, light weight battery, stock engine - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8486oNenUE (2:35 counter)

This event will show a wide variety of 1320s - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jafKV_tmsQA

That one guy claims 3960LBS and ran 120 MPH with drag radials, comes out to 527 HP while an 11.20 at that weight comes to over 550 HP.

Any car with the 392 will be the street-race car from now on. My 15 SRT amazes me every time I drive it (23,000 miles) 24-5 mpg at 70. Rear tires are the only thing holding these engines back (I think mine were made with grease) lol

Thats why put these on

Specs on your rear wheel and tire combo????
Brand and backspacing on the wheels especially.