Hello
I need some good input from you all that know more than I do.
So I know a little about my combo but Not everything.
I owned the car years ago and now have it back with a complete new setup.
It’s a 69 RR full steel, dash mini tub small tire.
mega block 528 built by muscle motors.
Indy -1
Comp cam roller 682 intake 663 exhaust
Diamond pistons dished part 52424 4.350 bore 24cc
R&R Billet Alum rods

7al2 and grid
8261 Pro Power HVC-2 Coil
Crank trigger
Locked out at 36degrees
Fresh Gary Williams dom just back from his bench
NOS Proshot Fogger with a Edelbrock controller and a leash board.

Andy Mayes built the tranny
No info on convertor

Dyno at 798hp

Nobody can tell me what compression it is unfortunately the guy is not able to
Provide details past the paperwork they provided at last freshen.

The car went 9:03 @ 148 with 300 shot and 116 octane (got the video) just before I got it back.

I’m concerned about:
They ran NGK R5671-10 gapped at 20 the driver/Mech
Said he threw them in there because it’s what they had for their blown alky car.
People have said way cold…?

Fires up quick, idles great, no missing, popping or anything.
I’ve drove it last weekend on the street just to get a feel on 110 octane
Seemed “ok” but got a little warm 215 after a couple of
Romps and about a 7 or 8 mile round trip
so I don’t know if all is up to snuff with cooling.
Got a Meziere pump and a aluminum rad with a pusher and a puller.
It was 80 here in SWFL.

I want to get it on the dyno or do some short track pulls but where do I start with plugs and gap
For non spray. I don’t just want to go in blind to spraying it off the bat.
I’m not the best at this and new to the big boy stuff.
I used to race this car years ago as a 451 but had a good tuning buddy but now on my own.
So any foresight, suggestions or help I’d appreciate it.

Anything else I can share to help let me know
I’m an slightly informed newbie so all helpful comments welcome
Thanks I’m advance

We've never seen any power gain on N/A or turbo stuff with a big gap. I doubt if the 10s are cold on spray. My N/A 572 , 15-1 runs 5671-9.
Doug

So shouldn’t worry about the 20 gap then?
And if I’m not spraying will the heat range be a big deal?
Thanks Doug for the reply

The most important thing with your combination is what was the timing ? Especially when using nitrous. 440-1 are not nitrous friendly , at least not at the 300 up level , so they may have taken more timing out than usual.
Lots of variables here as far as quench , cam specs , chamber shape , to give recommendations on tuning . At least as far as your nitrous goes .
On motor alone you can probably run a hotter plug .
As with most nitrous engines being
Conservative on timing will go a long ways , also don’t let it get too fat or too lean as both can hurt parts .

Yes you can certainly run the -9 plug for motor pulls . Yes it can be .025 -.030 gap . When I use nitrous I run the -10 plug at .025 and I use a lot more than 300hp

Not meaning to jack the op's thread, but what can of HP can he expect by going to a hotter plug in his (natural aspirated ) -1 heads?

Ok great thanks, I see in the grid he was dropping the timing out from 36 to 27 on nitrous runs.

Your way safer using 34 degrees BTDC total timing on race gas is what I have learn doing max tuning in the 1/4 mile on ET or MPH
if the race gas is more than 30 days old after opening the can use it in some other vehicle with less compression, all gasoline starts losing octane when expose to our atmosphere, all of them
E85 and straight methanol don't devil scope: : up:
They are both way safer to use when racing also: up:
Without knowing the compression ratio and quality of the gas being used it is impossible to give you the correct heat range to use, sorry
If those #10 NGK stay clean and don't foul out at light part throttle driving use them: up:: two cents:
If they do get real black and ugly looking, try a NGK #7 or #8 next The # 8 would be safer than the #7 but both may work better on the street than the #10 NGK

What are the nitrous and fuel jets?

So on the “safer using 34” comment….is this for street and motor only pulls?
I’ve ran it on 93 pump for 5 gallons then bought a new sealed 5 gal pale of Sunoco 110 motor only for a few mile cruise around last week at this point but have not done any plug reading pulls. When I got back after that plugs were ugly black…
Plan is to go do some backroad pulls - warm it up on street plugs, put in new set of -8 plugs, start up, do burn out, run a 330’ or 660’ and shut off tow back to my trailer and read plugs.
I have cam card, piston card but no nothing past this paperwork regarding deck height etc… Muscle Motors ain’t around to tell
help with build specs and the previous owner can’t help.
Thought about E85 but just got my Gary Williams carb back.
I have -10 lines with a A2000 Aeromotive pump and Reg then a holler blue for nitrous Sytem. I guess change fuel lines and carb is all I need to change or am I wrong?
Wish I knew CR too but unless somebody can tell by the paper work it’s mean tearing it down. But it’s all fresh with 5 pulls on it so I’d hate to do that.
The other thing is he was locked 36 (in the grid tune) and he was dropping it to 27 when the spray came on.
My question is when driving it on the street will reducing the timing to say 30 make it run any cooler?
On the few miles on the 110 octane it got up to 215 degrees I shut off and let it set left fans and pump running got down to 160 in just a few minutes.
Drove back home 5 miles and it was back up to 215
Sorry for all the newbieness but gotta ask to know.

I’ll check the jets in the carb tomorrow and pull what he has in the nitrous too.
The carb he had on was an off the shelf dominator he had. The carb on now is a Gary Williams that just came back completely reworked for my combo…per Gary, his words not mine. So I haven’t looked at what he put in yet.
It fires up and is smooth at idle and driving but the plugs were black but those were in there from
Before, so I don’t know.
I know I have work to do and some important things I don’t know about the motor, that’s why I’m here 😆
but appreciate ya’lls help so I have a best chance of not hurting it.

No on street only tuning, that is with 13.0 to 1 comp ratio on race gas N/A years ago at the track and on multiple engine dyno tests with iron and aluminum heads
I have found out since then that when I see 34 degrees total timing someone else may see 32 to 38 degrees BTDC on the same motor the same time
I try and make sure I have my eyes align with the timing tab and the center of the crankshaft when setting ignition timing
I'm going to have to find out, learn, how much timing to pull with NOS this year also
i hope I do it without hurting the new motor

Put one new spark plug in #7 cylinder and go drive it real easy at part throttle at or under 2300 RPM for 10 to 15 minutes and then look at that plug, If it is black again lean down the idle air fuel mixture and try again to get it right
Make sure the carb is idling on the idle circuits only, not up on the transition circuit

Interesting I’ll do that and see what happens, should it be the same heat range -10 as are in it or does that matter for this test
And your talking about also maybe checking the 4 corner idle circuit too?
It just came back from Gary’s bench but may it need a fine tune cause it is real gassy out the pipes.
Thanks man

If it stinks it is to rich, unlike women
AKA aside use the idle mixture screws to lean it out
If you can't get it done that way you can enlarge the idle air bleeds on the top of the carb. but you need to have a pin vise and good selection of very small drill bits..
Can you take the carb off and flip it over after draining all the gas out of the fuel bowl first and see if the primary and secondary throttle blades are exposing the transition slots in the middle of the throttle plate?
If so do that now first and if they are exposed use the idle speed screws to close them enough so they don't expose the transition:: up:

What jets are in the fogger?

The -10 plugs will be good for the nitrous, but are cold for street driving. I'd use a -8 for any street driving or naturally aspirated runs.

FWIW...I use -8s gapped around .035" in my 11:1 hemi on 93 octane pump gas, but use -10 plugs gapped around .025" for 300 hp nitrous passes w/ Renegade Pro 120 nitrous fuel.

Sorry been away for a bit.
Thanks for the input so far.
Here’s a pic of the -10 plug I pulled out in number 7 hole.
Now I have put a new -10 plug in number 7.
Far as I got waiting to drive like you said an will report back.
Jets in the front are 92 by the way.
Idles screws are pretty close to a turn and a half out from when the carb was freshened with no runs on it yet

I’ll check the nitrous jets after I get this all figured out and get the heat range figured.
I think I’m try the above setup -8 motor and -10 nitrous

Time to do a leak down test on that cylinder, I would do all 8
That much oil on that plug is talking to you and me, check out why it is on their please, let us know what you find

Well that’s disturbing news from a fresh build with only a few runs on it from the guy that had Muscle Motors do the freshen (before I got it, I haven’t done anything but drove it maybe 20 total miles with no track time)….
I guess I’ll pull a couple more plugs and look.
Time to get a leak down tool…and figure out the process.
It has a Aerospace vac pump on it so nothing could be happening with that could it?
Sorry for the questions but trying to rule any other reasons but I suppose rings, valve seals are the only other reason…?
Again I appreciate any and all help thought I had a cherry ready to go have some fun but sounds like I may have a pile…frustrating

So here’s one side.
And Sorry before I said that one above that I sent first was #7 previously it was actually #8.
Sending other pics next post..