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Re: 269/275 solid roller install
[Re: B1MAXX]
#3019891
03/01/22 09:05 AM
03/01/22 09:05 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 8,043
Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 8,043
Mt Morris Michigan
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I just came from the garage, thought i would check a few things before heading off to work. I pulled the exhaust valve to measure it. Think i will just replace it with another Edelbrock valve, whatever they use. I poured some cleaner in the intake port and no leaks there. You can see on the right side of the intake brow that the valve was just touching that outer edge and some more deep into the brow. You can say i paid for an education in all of this. It will be awhile before i can get back to it.
Last edited by mopar dave; 03/01/22 09:21 AM.
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Re: 269/275 solid roller install
[Re: HardcoreB]
#3019919
03/01/22 10:43 AM
03/01/22 10:43 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,095
Shelby Twp. Mi
HardcoreB
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,095
Shelby Twp. Mi
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..."just as i thought" ...the '430' lobes are a mystery as to which one. Some of these ARE AGGRESSIVE. I wouldn't run anything other than the two I circled with that spring package. What pushrod? Is this pushrod oiled?
Last edited by HardcoreB; 03/01/22 10:45 AM.
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Re: 269/275 solid roller install
[Re: mopar dave]
#3019958
03/01/22 12:53 PM
03/01/22 12:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,514
So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,514
So. Burlington, Vt.
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The 264/268 roller Andy used is .144@TDC, when installed at 106. So, that’s not going to buy you any room. It’s also .446 lobe lift. My feeling about your heads/combo are this....... There is no doubt in my mind your current long block(with whatever tweaks might be necessary to provide adequate v/p clearance) would make solidly over 700hp. Brads std port stock stroke combo made close to 700hp, and I’m sure it could best that mark with just a cam swap to something a little more aggressive. But that ...... and $1.59 will buy you a cup of coffee. It does appear from the pic of the piston that the radial clearance of the intake pocket might need to be addressed. wouldn’t be too much trouble pulling the other and replacing with something that works well for everyone, 270’s If you feel like you just have to have them........ just order ‘em up! Be an interesting test for sure.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123
Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: 269/275 solid roller install
[Re: mopar dave]
#3020007
03/01/22 03:18 PM
03/01/22 03:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,514
So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,514
So. Burlington, Vt.
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I’m not.
And the projected availability doesn’t look fantastic.
However, I saw Mike at B3RE mentioned he had some TF’s in stock.
I believe he was referring to the SB heads....... but it might be worth a call.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123
Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: 269/275 solid roller install
[Re: mopar dave]
#3020050
03/01/22 06:04 PM
03/01/22 06:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,075
Oregon
AndyF
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,075
Oregon
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Do you think a 325cc port is too large in a trick flow 270 on a 511 and 6800 shift points? No. A 270 head should make a little over 700 hp at 6800 on a 511 short block. A ported intake manifold will pick it up another 15 or 20 hp. You'll need a good carb (big 4150 or 4500), decent compression (12:1 or higher) and a good cam. We've built a lot of 505 or 512 engines with 270 heads and they always make 700+ right around 6800 or 6900 rpm.
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Re: 269/275 solid roller install
[Re: HardcoreB]
#3020120
03/01/22 11:06 PM
03/01/22 11:06 PM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 713
Lake Villa Il
INTMD8
super stock
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super stock
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 713
Lake Villa Il
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Take a minute and gather your thoughts. Absorb the good advice some here have given. From my perspective, you are not far from screwing it back together and meeting your goals. Personally, I would have NO PROBLEM buying that home-made piston fly-cutter and making room. I'd bet you'll only need .030 IN DEPTH but where you'd gain room is radially. The amount you'll affect balance is INSIGNIFICANT. And the amount compression would 'suffer' would be the same (INSIGNIFICANT!). A bunch of people that have given advice, do this stuff for a living and I don't think their advice is being considered or absorbed. You do nice work, you aren't as far off as you think meeting your goals with the parts you have. Some of the theories you hold tight to are holding you back. Get that thing back together and the next time you're beside that Camaro, he'll be watching your rear-end! Based on what I see the camshaft IS a .430 lobe. Don't be so quick to change parts, it is unnecessary. (But that cam might like a better spring, talk later) Can't agree more. This thing could be doing wheelies by now with a few bucks invested and much less time spent than responding to this thread. What happens if you buy new heads and the valves don't align with the reliefs? You waited 6 months and will be cutting the pistons anyway. You mentioned being unfamiliar with it. Very easy. Cutter goes in place of the valve, piston is at tdc with the circumference taped off and you drop the cutter into the piston by a marked amount, usually takes a few seconds. Result is perfectly aligned valve clearance vs your cylinder head. Of course do whatever you prefer, just an opinion 
69 Charger. 438ci Gen2 hemi. Flex fuel. Holley HP efi. 650rwhp @7250 510rwtq @5700
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