Cab, your right. That makes sense. Now that I have everything run through my own switches, which go directly to the battery, I can likely delete that wire as well. Just trying to keep things as simple as possible. I have seen some of those switches with a ton of things run to them.
The feed for the car comes from the black wire off alternator running into the cabin, which hits the welded splice prior to ammeter.
So if I run the shutoff switch to the alternator with the 8 gauge (or bigger as suggested) What do I do with the black wire that powers the cabin?The wire from battery to starter relay allows the cabin to have power when the engine is off and get things fired up. That's the design of the system.
Do i connect the black wire from the alternator to here?
I'm lost with electrical and I truly appreciate the help guys.The battery doesn't power the car with the engine running when an alternator is in use. Except when you have a crappy low output at idle alternator that mopar loved to put on these cars back in the day. Ammeter discharge at idle anyone.
Why run that solenoid/CD relay in the alternator charge line? Some don't like having a 1-8 gauge welding cable live in the front of the car when the cut off switch is thrown. Also some don't like running amp loads for the starter through a cut off switch and use a ford relay on the starter cable. 8ga for the charge line front to rear of car for anything relatively decent to feed a car is seriously undersized. Maybe on a 30-40 amp output alternator, 100 amps, not going to be sufficient.
Also if the car is a pure racer, pull in pits and hit cut off, that wiring approach for switching on/off is fine. If you drive it on the street, unless you throw the switch, your solenoid is in constant draw and drain the battery.
Lots of ways to skin a cat, many ways to meet the minimum standard of nhra, some methods are MUCH safer than others.
