Hi guys, I'm looking to do a 416 build for my AAR (and I'd like to keep the 6 pak intake, even though it may end up costing me some power)....I'll admit I haven't searched the subject too much, my internet time is limited...
Now that the kits have been out a few years, you guys that have them, would you have done anything different? Is there a CLEAR choice out there as far as who's kit to get?
All I'll be using my car for is for street cruisin' and bruisin' - not a strict strip car (but would like it to have enough power for easy 11 second potential). E85 conversion isn't out of the question either (big compression).
I'm not too much of a purist, so aftermarket heads and headers are OK by me...Thanks for any input!!

That is hard to answer right off the top. I am building one now, too. You need how much bore your block will need. If you go .030, you have all kinds of options. Mine bored to .040, so my choices became very limited and costly. I would have been better off finding another block to start with.

I would recommend the Eagle assemblies. I hear mixed things on the Scat products.

I am running and Eagle set up w/ custom fitted pistons (they were the most expensive part)to run about 9.5 compression with ported and polished stock J heads. My manifold is an Edelbrock Performer RPMand the cam is a Comp Cams XE series cam (we have not selected the size yet).

We are shooting for around 425+ hp on pump gas.

I bought my assembly for my 422 from Dram. Used K1 Chevy small end rods and K1 crank so there was zero grinding required to fit everything in the block. Also used Diamond flat top pistons. Best route if you ask me.

I have built a few and the eagle stuff is absolutely horrible! I have seen there cranks break right where the over lap is because they try to make them internally balance by leaving material out right there. Also the machining is very puny, often they have a lot of taper from one side to the other on one journal, measure it once in the middle and it is fine, measure again near the edge and it can be bigger or smaller. The SIR rods some have cap screws and some don't, also they use an inferior steel to the SCAT or K1 stuff, 5140 instead of much better 4340. There forging process leaves a lot of stress risers in the beams and I have seen a couple in very mild aplications break right along the stress riser, bearings showed no sighn of distress.

The SCAT stuff I have used was all right on the money machining wise and there rods are only a couple bucks more than the eagle and lightyears ahead in quality. I have not run an engine with K1 stuff but I have seen it in person and "looks" pretty good

I would almost choose a SCAT cast crank over an Eagle forged. I would probably choose the forged eagle but it would be VERY closely checked for every machining dimention.

I am not a SCAT dealer by the way.

I just picked mine up from the builder a week ago.

SCAT 4340 crank / rods
comp retro roller
E heads
air gap
750 double pumper

Dyno'd at 522 HP

Six pak Stroker #1 has the hyd cam, eagle sir rods and a cast crank with eddy heads etc. cost about $7500. Thousands of miles on the road course and no failures. Has an honest 400 rear wheel horse power. Calculation of weight and mph in the 1/4 come out at 11.99 et.

Stroker #2 not in car yet

6 paks make great power

53009180AB PILOT BEARING 11.00
P3690715 OIL PUMP DRIVE 24.10
P4120484 FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC 21.00
53021195A A TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER 32.00
CCA-1420-16 Comp Cams ROLLER ROCKERS SUMMIT 420.00
USED 1969 340 BLOCK sonic checked SWAP MEAT 600.00
Heads e heads by shadydell 2500
Ported by shady dell 6 pak intake 375
STOKER KIT MUSCLE MOTORS 2000
Girdle 290
OIL PAN kevko 210
FREEZE PLUGS BRASS 8.00
CAM BEARINGS CLEVITE 35.00
HEAD DOWELS 2.00
DIST BUSHING 2.00
OIL PUMP DYNAGEAR 55.00
HEAD STUDS Milodon 75.00
PUSHRODS 7.455 inches 125.00
TIMING CHAIN COMPCAM TRUE ROLLER 55.00
LIFTERS COMP CAMS 170.00
INTAKE GASKETS FELPRO RACE 20.00
HEAD GASKETS FELPRO 70.00
DAMPER 275
CAM 189.00
Misc. $200.00

LABOR
CLEAN BLOCK
INSTALL MAIN STUDS/Girdle AND ALIGN HONE
MILL REAR MAIN CAP FOR SHORT STUD
BORE & HONE 0.030 WITH PLATE
SQUARE DECKS
DEBUR AND MODIFY OIL SYSTEM
ASSEMBLE ENGINE, PRIME 1000.00

Here is a pic of my olds man's #'s matching TA motor that was built as a 416...I will give you one suggestion/hint on the intake if you use the six pack use an original only, i know (lots of time was spent trying to have the best solution)



I dont remember the exact numbers but stock heads and intake, no porting, it was 501 tq and 436hp<?

I recently completed a 416 build. Planning on firing the motor in the next 60 days.

I did not use a kit and if I had to do it over again, I may explore this avenue more so than the route I went. In any event, are you in the position to have your block and machine work done prior to making your stroker purchase? If so, this may help to answer or eliminate some choices that you are pondering.

From my experience, you may spend more in the higher price for parts for instance but then save more $$ by having to do less machining. Another consideration IMO is whether you want to go with an internally or externally balanced motor. Again, this may impact your budget, choices as to what to purchase and help to answer the question that you ask.

There is a wealth of knowledge and experience from those who have built and own these stroker motors and you are on the right track by seeking the advice from others as you go. Good luck as you proceed with all of the considerations and decisions that you will be encountering with your build. I'm sure it will be a screamer once it's done.

I do have my original intake, what makes it better than the aftermarket pieces - just wondering...I have accepted the fact I'll probably need to port it to gain full potential of the stroker buildup....the one thing I won't use is my matching #'s block though, I'll find a different core.
My brother will do my machining and balancing, etc - so at least that's free - he's used to doing big block and hemi stuff, so he's not too in tune with the small block stroker stuff - he did dyno an Eheaded 416 six pak about two years ago (he didn't build it) - wasn't that impressed with power, around 490, but it was quite torquey, low to mid 500's for torque - but the low power was attributed to a mismatched combo.
I'd like at least mid 5's for horsepower and run on pump gas - it won't be an everyday cruiser, so I can put up with a mildly tempermental engine. Thanks for the info so far!! I'm sure I'll have a ton more questions.