i don't like those welds either. they will be cut and re-done, and have been marked for such. thanks for pointing that out !
i also have a fixture to straighten the housing when the proper weld heat is applied to it.

If your rolling to a great extent then you are twisting the housing or bending the bars. Both need to be addressed correctly. The axle housing in a ladder bar set up is the Anti Roll bar. Anti Roll bar on a ladder bar car is nothing more than a ...

put the back of your ladder bar car on jackstands. Pull one front bolt. See how easy it is to pry the front of the ladderbar up or down. That, my friend, is flex. A ladder bar may try to act as an anti roll, but the leverage is too great. All metal objects compress, expand, or twist under load. If you want to see this, measure a connecting rod bolt with a stretch gauge when it is loose . Now tighten only with your figure tips. You should see a very minor stretch, maybe . 0001 or. 0002! Now, translate that into what a 900 hp, 750 ft lbs of torque multiplied by converter and low gear can do. It can bend stuff, like ladder bars , brackets, bolts, housings. Hence the need for an anti roll when simple pre load or other adjustments can't compensate enough. On my car the bottom hole in the front brackets is the one that an anti roll is needed.
Higher holes I could compensate with preload and shock settings.

Every ladder bar car I know that installed a Anti Roll bar, picked up ET, and made the car more consistent. I'd never run any dedicated race car without one again.

i really appreciate the teaching moment this has been for me from you folks !
the knowledge shared is being noted and compiled, and although this project is/has been a lengthy one, i hope to be able to [one day] report how it goes down the track.
when this thing was acquired almost a half century ago, i had a vision of what i wanted this to turn out to be, and i'm staying pretty close to it all these years later.
if i was smart, [ ] i would have had a shop of sorts do work for me, possibly having it done years ago. however, the skills i have acquired during this build, plus the knowledge learned that can be also applied to other builds, is priceless.
meaning, a LARGE amount of this is credited to YOU FOLKS here !
if possible, please continue to assist me along this journey with your criticism and wisdom, and try not to beat me too hard when this old guy asks stupid questions.
Thank You All again !

FWIW we run a large splined anti roll on the vette. It seems to be a big help for us keeping the car level at the hit. 60' times in a small tire SB NA car says it must be working ok

says UP TOO 800HP.
My cost to build my own was leftover tubing from a chassis I built, some 1/4 inch cold rolled plate, 8 5/16 bolts, and whatever it cost for the rod ends and tube for the links. Plus two large roller bearings. I doubt I have over $90 in it.

i always like to use up the leftovers to use in other projects like you Greg !
as a retired machinist, it keeps my skills up, and keeps me out of trouble.
besides, i have to budget my bucks so the doctors and hospitals get THEIR fair share !

I wished I had been in a trade like yours Mx. My machining capabilities consist of a chopsaw, angle grinder, drill press, welders and plasma cutter. But determination can take a guy quite a ways.
Looking forward to your anti roll creation👍