Weight, horsepower, trans configuration, radials or bias, track prep.

stealthyWedgie .. with all those issues ... I would have probably just have said FUGG IT and gone with a Dana 70 .,..out of a dump truck or motor homey!

I build my own Dana's from truck stuff. Cost me right around $1000, plus a core housing. The latest super duper 9" is great, but expensive. At 550hp 2900lb, foot brake? A 8 3/4 will go a longtime. My street/strip car weighs 3885 and runs 11.0s. It's never hurt the 8 3/4. Been racing it on/off since the 90's. Pure race at normal bracket race power level? Dana is the most cost effective.
Doug

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seaMac... supposedly 1800 lbs - at the starting line ... 500 hp(change oil once a season) ... footbrake trans ... big meats and good hook .... ?

Thanks dvw. I kind of agree and if I truly felt I would never want to go beyond footbrake I think the 8 3/4 is the best option.

But like everyone else, I know once I go 6.9 in the 1/8th, I will want 6.8. If I get used to 6.8 I will want 6.5, then after running there a few months, surely 6.4 is within reach. After that, I would need to upgrade the car due to safety rules, and of course, once that is done, running the 6.0 index would make the most sense, but then I would want that time slip showing the car in the 5's and, well as you can see, this never ends.

When it comes to my racing, I have not yet found my limit, and each time I think I felt a real thrill, my thirst for more comes back! I have driven cars significantly faster than mine and am not scared.

I doubt I will ever be that consistent driver who runs for points or is satisfied with a car that is always steady and perfect week after week.
I also do not have unlimited funds, so budget is always a consideration.
I am not a car builder, this is simply an amazing hobby for me. Unlike many folks here, I do not even work in the automotive industry.

With that in mind, I am thinking "Build a car that I could run about any engine in from a safety perspective, with a heavy duty drive shaft, rear end, axles and a cage that will be safe for anyone who drives it,"
(I am old enough now to realize this car should out live me, and I want to leave it a safe and fast as possible for my future family member, whoever that maybe)

Then depending on how life plays out, I can focus on the engine. I like the idea of fixing the rear-end once and being done.

I broke a few 8 3/4" ring & pinions in my Dart Sport footbraking. But it weighed 3,540+ lbs with a best of 1.47 60', 11.14/6,99 ET and 117+ in the 1/4, wheels up almost every time. That's the weak link as I never broke a cap. I finally got a pair of Moser Dana 60's for the Dart and a slower but heavier Aspen wagon, but never got the Dana put in the Dart. Just wanted peace-of-mind and knew the optimum ratio. Could have easily lost my IHRA Stock championship in 2017, but the timing of the break, some particularly high points-earning wins and a few incredibly lucky breaks otherwise made it all work out.

so how much hp can a guy have before a dana is needed in my charger ? 350 ? 400 ?
just getting an idea so i can save up for one........
i know a new driveshaft with 1350 yokes is in my future, but i don't want to have to buy two of them. although i have thought about spacing the rear back about 3/8-1/2" to center the wheels in the quarter openings. would that allow the 8 3/4 driveshaft to fit the dana ?
i'm hoping traction will be an issue at first, saving the rear.
i know this heavy tank won't be a 10 second car, but i don't want to be fixing things that make big chunks and bad noises all the time.

What I have found is when you launch & it spins & then it bites is what will KILL an 8 3/4 even at lower HP #'s & weight , so just don't ever spin the tires

Weight / Torque / Traction can kill a Dana too....

Some guys can screw up a 50 ton wrecking ball in a sand box with a feather, huh JUST KIDDING

You could use a 7.25 in that. We used to call them "sissy rears". Guys would cut them down, weld the gears up, and use them in Cub Cadets with a 2 cylinder Kohler for lawn mower pulling.

8.75 should live in that. 12 bolt, even a 10 bolt GM. 8.8 Ferd would work. Easier to find, cheaper than an 8.75.

Or just get all aftermarket 8.75 stuff. Moser does a housing. Randys does a center.

I’ll get that up on the rack and pull the cover .... supposed to be a big $ 12 bolt !

Well when YOU were a young gEeZeR .. those 12 bolts were goodies ?

I run the alum 8 3/4 in my race car but the car is light.. runs 8.90s and has a 1.19 60 ft.. I also run the
9" in my street rod set up to run 10.0.. both cars are back braced.. heavy cars will break parts so if
you can make the car lighter you should

And plentiful. Like 340s. Couldn't walk from one side of the shop to the other without tripping over one.