IMHO your biggest problem is trying to shift an 18 spline gear box at 7 grand. been through that.

It might shift once before it blows apart.

stock block, cast iron 2bolt caps, big rpm and power, manual tranny;......what could possibly go wrong?

284@.050 is a big-“ish” cam?

I would have though that easily qualified as a straight up “big” cam.

Especially with 10.5:1CR.

FWIW I agree. That much cam and 10.5 compression? You could run thirty degrees less duration and probably go faster. Todd

a lot of the parts came slowly. I bought this and that. I never had a clear or distinct direction i wanted to go with the build. AND this is what i ended up with.

Im sure a differnet cam (smaller) WOULD HELP, but i dont have one right now.

We will see what happens as I tidy up small things on the car.

Right now I cannot shift (1/2) above 5k, it just wont go into gear. Has no problem doing the 2/3 shift and I haven't tried the 3/4 at any real rpms.

A friend of mine had a ranchero years ago with an Blown alcohol injected hemi and a (a833) 4 speed. It was deep in the 8s. The trans held up as long as he didnt power shift or dump the clutch off the line. He routinely would run mid 9's taking it "easy". He also drove this on the street. But a hard launch would strip the main shaft IIRC.

I’m sure we’ll all enjoy the track reports

LOL... Im sure you all will. Ill try to get good pictures too. HAHAHA, carnage is loved by all.... except those waiting to go after me.

Sounds like you have street clutch disc with the wave spring in between the two discs that expands the higher you rev it
If that is the case swap it out for a race disc that is designed and built to be rev above 5000 RPM and still shift
Been there, done that

Hmm, never heard of a marcel spring dragging a clutch at high rpm.

I have seen some aluminum flywheels flex enough at high rpm to engage the clutch. Would not have thought that possible until swapping a few cars back to steel which cured it.

I am not even sure what brand it truly is. I bought it from american powertrain years ago before they sold centerforce. I feel like at the time they called it "science friction" Maybe Ill give them a call, but in the past, ordering other parts for my swap I was not too impressed with their knowledge of their own products or customer service.


This is the only picture I have of it.

I can see the pressure plate and flywheel fine, not so much on the disc

Here it is. Last one on the page. Dual discs. https://americanpowertrain.com/clutches/

Farq

So how many sheckles dose one of them cost?

And yes since I asked, most likely I cant afford it lols

I honestly do not remember what I spent on it.
But I also got the hydraulic throw out bearing and master for it

That clutch is a parts breaker. Marketing nonsense must sell clutches because I have never used a clutch based on how much horsepower a bean counter thinks it will hold.

Care to elaborate? Or just an opinion based on gut feeling???

Look into soft lock clutches. What you have is a 2 ton toggle switch that beats everything behind it to death. You need to control the application of the clutch or it will break parts. And yes, you can use a soft lock on the street.

so far on street only use, the thing engages like a single disc clutch. Easy to get it rolling from a stop, no over revving it, soft enaggement. I wouldnt know it is a twin disc setup just by driving it. With the hydo TO bearing it is super easy to push in and easy to feather. I would say my Honda (almost 500 WHP) has a stiffer clutch than this.