thank you sir !

I started using adhesive silicone because it doesn't push out or leak when used with oils, ATF and rear end grease, unlike a lot of automotive RTV

i have used adhesive silicone on many items, but never where heat was involved.
it does work good sealing in oils and other liquids in the non heated applications i have used it in, and also "glues" stuff together well ! it isn't any harder to remove than regular RTV.
i have just been apprehensive to use it in heated automotive applications such as transmission and engine oil pans because i was unsure it would stand the heat.
i guess i might have to try it now.

Do it
I've used it for years on the BB rear main seal with no issues

Normally, externally in...it will form an outer skin fairly quickly when exposed to air; that's why the damp pipe cleaner aids the cure time by starting the cure from both the inside and the outside. A full cure in normal humidity can take up to 72 hours.

thanks for the explanation !

I also stopped using the side seals and filled the last two with RTV, believe it was Ultra Black, one in 2012 and the other in 2019.

They both sat for several days before being filled and fired up, which probably helped the material cure. Didn't do anything else.

when I first assembled my twin turbo stroker for dyno testing, i used one of the billet seal holders with double o-rings and the standard fel pro seal. It leaked on the dyno. I pulled the engine apart to check everything and replaced the billet holder with a stock one, using the viton nitro fel pro seal and I filled the sides with Ultra Grey. Then once in place, i filled the V area on the back side of the block with Ultra Grey. So far, it's not leaking , but it's been NA . I'll be adding the turbos soon. Dyno mockup is Richard Holdener style..

How did that pull perform?

7 psi gave 723 hp at 5400, and 860 lb/ft at 3400. Peak torque may have been at a lower rpm and HP was still climbing at 5400. We did not test below 3400 and Laz stopped at 5400 because we did not discuss what valve springs I had. I would have told him to go to at least 5800 if not more. we stopped testing because of several factors... it was over 100 degree in the dyno cell, IAT was about 200 degrees and we did not want to wait for a cool down to try more boost since it was about 9 pm and I had been up since 4:30am. The engine is in the truck, but no turbos yet. Before installation into the truck, i swapped from a hydraulic flat tappet Lunati cam 226 int./234 exh. ,0.494 int./0.513 exh. ,110 LSA to a Comp hydraulic roller. Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 236 ,Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift: 242, Intake Valve Lift: 0.544, Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.541
Lobe Separation: 110 . I'm currently collecting parts to upgrade the transmission from a simple B&M Transkit to a one with a billet steel front drum, 300M input shaft and the rest of the typical goodies.