Engine is apart it is definitely the thrust

I had chased a similar issue a few years back. Thrust bearing kept getting eaten up by the crank in short order. Issue was a combo of trans and converter problems.

Trans had some wear issues that allowed pressures to push internals forward into engine/crank. Replaced most of the internal parts (front pump assembly, output shaft support, front clutch retainer) along with total trans rebuild. Then had the converter checked by Lenny and he found that the Dynamic 9.5 unit had in fact ballooned even with the anti-balloon plates. Lenny fixed my vert and provided a suggestion to make sure there was enough clearance/travel in the pilot hole in the crank and that the snout was not bottomed out. He even took a little hair cut off of the converter snout to help build in some clearance. Machine shop took a little out of the pilot hole to make sure it had some breathing room as well. This was on a factory steel crank.

It has been working fine after the fix and nothing in the filter on the last oil change.

One other thing to check is the drive shaft length. And not just at rest. Usually, if the drive shaft/rear end/suspension is just "bottoming out" for a split second and then freeing up, it will just get the thrust bearing. If the drive train is bottoming out and staying that way, it will burn up the rear crank thrust surface.

I made a post about 3yrs ago measuring the converter pilot,ring gear total ht... and trans input depth if you want me to dig it up.

If it’s no trouble I would be interested in reading .
Thanks

Good call. I have actually corrected this on this car. When I got it the driveshaft was way tight to get in and out

Looking for a trans guy or mopar experienced shop in my area to look for issues and Advise on converter
Any referrals appreciated
G

If it's a torqueflite, and just about every other transmission out there, forward axial thrust on the mainshaft (output shaft) will not transfer that force into the torque converter. A forward thrust on the mainshaft from the driveshaft will push against the rear annulus gear to the rear planetary to the sun shell to the front drum and into the pump cover (aka stator support) which is bolted to the pump housing which is bolted to the transmission case. UNLESS you have some serious damage in the transmission.

Issues of ballooning or forward thrust of the converter usually involve too much hydraulic pressure in the converter, restriction in the cooler or cooler lines, or sticking converter control valve. Converter pressure = 30 psi. Cooler line after the control valve = 10-30 psi in drive.

Converter control valve dumps into the pan at 60psi.

You may want to tee-in a pressure transducer or manual gauge in the cooler output line between the transmission and the cooler.

If its not the oil pump gear You may want to look for a thrust bearing problem. I just went through this on my SB duster, it has a 904. You might run your car and check the line pressure . The thrust bearing can be chamfered to help but I've also installed a restrictor to reduce conv pressure. A dial indicator can be used in car to check crank end play and help diagnose the problem. My end play was about .018. If it is your thrust hopefully you're cranks not hurt

where would you install the converter restrictor, and how big of a hole would you use, or start with ?

My restrictor went into the passageway where the valvebody bolts to the case in the to torque convertor circuit. The restrictor has a .125 hole. Darren at Pro Trans helped me. I cant say enough good things about Pro Trans. VERY HELPFUL ! I described the problem and he knew exactly what I was talking about. I haven't run the car since. This was in a 904.

thank you for your answer sir.

Any trans guys or companies in or near ct??

So
Finally got it to a trans guy . Can’t find anything wrong. Says front pump looks good . I will ask him to check the t converter control valve .
Did say he found a Broken washer in the pan and it came from the front planetary .

He looked at the converter and said it has anti ballon plates . Should I be having a converter company open it look at it ? Or replace it?

Anything else I should ask him to look for?

Hate to put this all back together for the same results

Thanks