I just asked them if it would void the warranty welding a weight onto the tc and they said it's fine... The tc I'm taking the weight off is worth less than the flex plate I'd have to buy anyway.

So I've decided to try and weld the weight onto the converter... I'm not a welder by any means but as long as the metal works with me I've been able to make some nice welds...
I have a cheap little arc welder... Any suggestions on the type of rod I should use? I have a couple 6011 laying around will this work?

Got the new tc...
The front cover pilot looks damaged. Can I even use this?

I also see some damage on the converter body... Is this damage something I can work with or is it something that will cause a problem??

I personally don't like to see my "new" stuff arrive with gouges but if it's just cosmetic and won't leak then I'll use it.

Keeping in mind it's 'refurbished' and by the looks of the packaging it didn't happen during shipping I can only assume they shipped it with that damage which means they don't care or it's not a big deal...

The nice thing is you can see exactly where the old weight use to be which gives me more confidence on welding the weight on it...

Do I complain and return it? Or... Do I file the pilot and take my chances?

I'm worried the damage on the pilot was cause by it being dropped..?

If I return it that means I can get a brand new B&M Tork Master 2000 but I don't wanna deal with the return and all that...

Opinions?

Regarding only the pilot, lightly file so there are no high spots and you are good.

Some converters have been rebuilt so many times that the "stack dimension" is too tight, so they weld in a spacer. That's why there is a double weld bead in the last pic.

I've heard that 11" converter cores are drying up, so the rebuilders don't throw any away for cosmetic damage.

Awesome! It should work then...
I have all my parts now including oil so I'm going to try and make something happen today...
I just need to make sure though. The Haynes manual tells me I can use any type of Dexron in my tranny. I had ordered some Dex VI but they sent me Dex/Merc instead but since they sent the wrong stuff I get a full refund and get to keep the oil so... I shouldn't have any problem with Dex/Merc?

I always use Dex/Merc and have for years. Some say firmer shifts with Type F and probably other opinions but you are safe with Dex/Merc.

you can run almost any type of fluid in a 727 except water.

Free dex/merc it is!


Now, I have a question about bushings because I just got my new rebuild kit and I'm either going to change the bushings or keep the one's already installed. The problem is they are two different kinds of bushings and I don't know which are better... Both are new just one set was installed by the previous builder...

Measure the clearance between the existing bushing and the reaction shaft support journal.
Then install the new one and measure again. Next time you will know what is acceptable and what’s acceptable.

As for differences - all I can see is the new one has a narrower groove. Either would be fine.

Really do I see this bushing bad unless a high mileage unit that ate a lot of very fine debris that got through the filter, of if someone installed one of those junk brass scree filters.

I see you are going through the front clutch looking for a reason for no reverse from your other post. Make sure to check the two metal rings on the reaction shaft support for condition, etc. and there are two lip seals in the clutch - lots of guys miss the small inner one inside the retainer.

I've gone through everything except the valve body... Once the tranny is mostly together I'll get into the valve body and see if that could've been the problem with no reverse...

I've changed all the seals and washers etc... I didn't miss the lip seals in the clutch either...