If the advantages of the new compressor attract you so much, you can change it. But I don't recommend it. First of all, remove the exhaust manifold from the engine. After that, loosen the generator belt and release the compressor pulley. Next, an external inspection of the compressor is performed, and the freon circulation tubes are removed. After that, pull out the plug with the wires from the compressor connector and unscrew the nuts of its fastening. Remove the old compressor, and install a new one in its place. But in general, I don't advise you to do it yourself. It's better to find affordable and reliable aircon service.

You have an expansion valve that regulates low side pressure and temperature, thus no need for a clutch cycling switch. Low side clutch cycling switch is necessary with a CCOT system.(Clutch Cycling Orifice Tube).
You do need, and probably already have, a high-pressure compressor cut-off switch normally mounted on the receiver/drier.

The RV2 contains the oil to lubricate the compressor in the crankcase of the compressor; just like the gas engine under the hood. There's a drain plug on the bottom of the compressor oil pan for changing the oil and there's a pipe plug on the side of the compressor that gets removed so you can use an RV2 oil dipstick to measure the oil level. The oil, whether it be mineral, PAG or Ester, does not circulate with the refrigerant in an RV2/R-12 system like a rotary/134a compressor system, regardless of the refrigerant you choose to use.

Keep this in mind: The receiver/drier that is meant for an R12 system is usually not designed to retain and meter oil like a receiver/drier that is meant for a 134a system and a later style compressor.

Any of the three oils should work on the RV2 as long as you add it to the crankcase of the compressor and NOT the charging port. THE OIL DOES NOT MIX AND CIRCULATE WITH THE REFRIGERANT with an RV2 or York/Tecumseh.. Personally I would simply use mineral oil just like the factory did. The RV2 compressor has two roller bearings, a dinky crankshaft, two connecting rods and two pistons with rings. The crankshaft gets lubricated through a scoop/slash system.


The front seal is pretty easy to replace. It's typically retained by 4 small screws. No special tools required.

As said before . . . I put system together when I restored the car, and ensured it was using R134a seals, oil, etc . . . finally cranked up the car to start driving this summer - turned on AC, and within about 10 seconds, she was blowing arctic cold air . . . still works great ! . . .

I'm by no no means an AC system expert, but according to the service manual in an RV2/R12 system the oil does mix with and is carried by the R12 through the entire system.

I think he was referring to the RV2 twin cylinder compressor used on old Mopars. The majority of the oil sits in the sump splash oiling the Compressor like a lawn mower engine does.

Yes, you are correct that oil will circulate but it will not get into the sump through the hoses. With the RV2 compressor, putting oil in the hoses is like adding adding oil to a lawn mower engine through the carburetor.

Because it will circulate, you should also add some to the system in the drier when installing everything from scratch to lubricate the other parts. i.e. compressor valves, expansion valves

I use ester oil in R12 systems because PAG and Mineral Oil are not compatible. At least the manual says they aren't so I have never tried it any other way.

Yup I was also referring to the RV2 twin cylinder compressors. Maybe a semantics issue - IDK. Anyway, here is the relevant part of the 1970 service manual that I was referring to.