I'm reading that the fuel pressure regulator will cut out at 45 psi, and that normal operational pressures are around 35 psi. The first shop I took it to said that the fuel pump was good, that the readings were in the normal range for this pump, and refused to replace it. I guess they thought 35 was a good reading, or maybe they were able to get a better reading than I've been able to.

Unless it is your gauge the pressure is to low. It would be nice if you could test the pressure on another like truck.

No other trucks like that around here, unfortunately. I was the last holdout on the old truck. He's getting parked and I'm going to be driving a car, going forward.

Don't have reliable help to help drop the tank/lift the bed, and the local shops want more than I can pay to do the fix. At this point, I have to stop throwing money at this old truck.

I learned alot. After I graduate I'll make enough money to have him professionally rebuilt. At this point, I'm out of ideas, and am running out of money for him.

I chased my tail on my Ram Van 360 for two years replacing almost everything, the culprit finally showed its ugly head... CRANK TRIGGER SENSOR. Can’t scream that loud enough. Previous owner chased this problem and got fed up and sold me the vehicle. He had installed one of the CHEAP sensors on it so me a dummy figure “it’s new” can’t be nothing wrong with it. Just by chance I put a junk yard $5 piece on and bam truck runs great. Found out they make 3 stages, get to auction, regular driver and one that’ll last a life time. Price goes up on each step. And previous owner put the cheap pos on it. Long story short it made then engine stumble, pop, buck jump bad fuel millage and a dog. How many throttle bodies, distributors, coils, wire sets ya need I got a box full most with all new sensors.

Crank trigger sensor? I'm going to go look that up, because I've never heard of that before. And you say that they make three stages? What specifically are the stages, sir?

If you mean the Crankshaft Position Sensor, I paid $300 for a Delphi unit to be installed. That's the expensive one. I bought it myself and handed it to the mechanic, so I know for a fact it was a Delphi product.

Back of block top of bell housing, takes reading off the flex plate and Tells the computer when to fire the plugs

I know that part as the Crankshaft Position Sensor. It was replaced with a Delphi (high quality) one. It didn't solve anything.

Like mentioned earlier when did the miss start?

If after the trans was installed then very possibly the driveplate was damaged. The concentricity of the driveplate is important because you have to set the clearance between the driveplate and the crank sensor. Some sensors just bolt in and some need to be set. The ones that have to be set have a cardboard disc on them or you install the disc on the sensor before installation. They have an adhesive to hold them in place. Once the motor starts it knocks off the disc.
Not sure if you vehicle has to be set this way.

Sharp edges and burrs in the windows can cause problems too, but the concentricity could have easily been compromised during removal or installation of the converter and trans. If you haven’t checked yet pull he inspection cover dust shield and bar the motor over slowly and look for runout.


Again, under a load the misfire is more pronounced, each gear change puts more load on the engine.

What’s a ‘Delphi’

"delphi" is a brand name.
known for quality electrical components.

Ok

I know I am a little late to the party, but I have seen the idle air control valve cause the problems you are having. It bolts to the back of the throttle body. Take it loose and clean it. If that does not fix it, it is worth taking a shot at replacing it.
https://www.google.com/search?q=wha...699j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Funny.

Way back at the beginning of this post, in the first or second picture, there was a governor pump (?) with three teflon seals. What clearance the (or how tight against) the governor support does there need to be? In my case, the support ring slips over the seals easily and seem a bit loose. The ATSG book is vague about this. If I needed these seals, where could I buy them? They did not come with my rebuild kit and I'm having trouble locating them.

Thank you.

They rarely have to be replaced. They work on oil pressure. They have no radial tension until they see pressure.

Thank you, Transman. I'll take that as I'm OK the way they are (no signs of damage).