Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: 5thAve]
#2868064
01/02/21 12:44 PM
01/02/21 12:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,861 Central Florida
larrymopar360
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Yes spotlight is one wire down into the dash somewhere and I'm pulling dash for speakers anyway.
Okay, ground wiper motor. Right now it's disconnected as car sits a couple days to see what happens when I can get back to it.
I've gone all around it in dark garage multiple times looking for any light. When this first started I thought for sure the ignition key light was going to be stuck on but not that. Not trunk, underhood, dome, ash receiver, or glove box lights.
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: larrymopar360]
#2868088
01/02/21 01:31 PM
01/02/21 01:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,355 Omaha Ne
TJP
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Omaha Ne
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Does the car have a clock ? working or not? Also being an ex cop car it could be a left over energized relay that is not hooked to anything. Do you have any relays that are still in place ? Also I would use that DVM hooked up in series (reading the draw) all the time when you are testing. Alligator clips and test leads with clips are handy for jumpers and are cheap. the test leas also won't handle a lot of currrent so they can act as a fusible link as well AMHIK LOL
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#2868153
01/02/21 05:39 PM
01/02/21 05:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,861 Central Florida
larrymopar360
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I’m sure it’s been said, but you also want to feel around for anything warm, especially under the dash. Actually, I don't recall reading that. I'll feel around when I take dash pad and lower panels off. Feel the alternator for warmth was suggested. I've had the car for many, many years and the problem just started within the last year or so, so anything left energized should've presented itself already (I would think). Wig wag headlights are still connected and I already eliminated those when I did testing. There's a connecter ((not just wires) hanging right under front bumper that was probably lights or siren. I can check that for energy too but it's been there from day one. I've never followed it all the way back. I just cable tied it up years ago. The clock is built into stock radio and that draw has got to be so minimal. One thing I've been thinking about is that it is one of the first air bag cars. I'm sure that's fused, and I pulled every fuse. Just trying to think if that could be the issue. "Air bag" light does come on while it inflates for ten seconds or so when car is started. I really just need to get back to testing alternator, then pulling dash before I speculate more I guess.
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: larrymopar360]
#2875139
01/16/21 04:19 PM
01/16/21 04:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,861 Central Florida
larrymopar360
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It appears to have been the alternator. To sum things up, my '89 Diplomat AHB had a 60 milliamp draw, and it wouldn't start after sitting couple weeks. I went through pulling every fuse, draw didn't change. Disconnected alternator, let car sit, battery stayed fully charged. Wanted to use voltmeter with alternator disconnected, but the batteries in meter leaked out and ruined it. Ordered another from Amazon. While waiting, I installed another alternator I had, slightly used but from another Dip Police car so perfect match. Left it connect along with battery for a week. Threw charger on battery, and it was fully charged. New voltmeter arrived, and it shows 140 milliamp draw! WTH?! Yes, it was on right settings, I confirmed. Doesn't make sense! Battery would have gone dead in a week with that kind of draw. It was almost dead with the 60 milliamp draw after that long.
Drove the car around for quite awhile last night, so headlights on of course, plenty of brake lights, radio on, other accessories. Came home, threw the charger on battery, and it was fully charged. I think I got a bad voltmeter. Probably Chinese junk. It was only $15 but had good reviews. Maybe some were fake. All seems well now. Btw, the bad alternator never got warm.
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: larrymopar360]
#2875431
01/17/21 11:40 AM
01/17/21 11:40 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,270 Morrow, OH
markz528
master
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Morrow, OH
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It appears to have been the alternator. To sum things up, my '89 Diplomat AHB had a 60 milliamp draw, and it wouldn't start after sitting couple weeks. I went through pulling every fuse, draw didn't change. Disconnected alternator, let car sit, battery stayed fully charged. Wanted to use voltmeter with alternator disconnected, but the batteries in meter leaked out and ruined it. Ordered another from Amazon. While waiting, I installed another alternator I had, slightly used but from another Dip Police car so perfect match. Left it connect along with battery for a week. Threw charger on battery, and it was fully charged. New voltmeter arrived, and it shows 140 milliamp draw! WTH?! Yes, it was on right settings, I confirmed. Doesn't make sense! Battery would have gone dead in a week with that kind of draw. It was almost dead with the 60 milliamp draw after that long.
Drove the car around for quite awhile last night, so headlights on of course, plenty of brake lights, radio on, other accessories. Came home, threw the charger on battery, and it was fully charged. I think I got a bad voltmeter. Probably Chinese junk. It was only $15 but had good reviews. Maybe some were fake. All seems well now. Btw, the bad alternator never got warm. Story - My not too smart sister bought a 1983 Renault Fuego new. Around 86/87, in cold weather the battery would be completely dead in the morning. Not very good mechanic charged her to replace the almost new battery. Did not fix it. I troubleshot it to a bad diode that was shorting out in cold weather and would turn everything on the aux circuit in the middle of the night and hence dead battery in the morning. She bought it at Papa's Dodge (and others back then) and I was there buying parts and inquired about the weird alternator problem. Was told its a common issue with those cars. Seriously? So she buys a new alternator. Starts getting warm out so problem stops and she doesn't replace the alternator. Fast forward to next winter - problem reappears. So I put the alternator in. Within days the brush assembly burns up. Can't remember if alt was still under warranty, but go back to the dealer where she bought it. No longer available. Seriously? This is now about 1987 or 1988, and they sold these cars in the USA thru 1986. No alt to be had. My dad the great machinist that he was, made a set of brush holders. Thing of beauty. Burn up in several days. I stick a Mopar alternator and voltage regulator in it. Even made a voltage sensing circuit to interface with the Renault idiot light. A few years later she buys a new car. I said whew - it's out of my hair. Nope - she gives the car to my other sister. Couple years later the car burns down from an electrical fire. That car was an utter POS............ That was not the only electrical issue I had to deal with in that car. Plus many other issues.
67 Coronet 500 9.610 @ 139.20 mph 67 Coronet 500 (street car) 14.82 @ 94 mph 69 GTX (clone) - build in progress......
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: moparx]
#2878618
01/22/21 09:31 PM
01/22/21 09:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,861 Central Florida
larrymopar360
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New lithium battery installed. So odd to hold a car battery in one hand without any problem. As you can see much smaller than the original battery. I had to trim the Thermoguard about an inch and a half on the bottom to make it fit as it’s much smaller. Way more cranking power than Megatron Interstate that I had at almost a quarter of the weight (11 lbs).
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: larrymopar360]
#2878755
01/23/21 07:30 AM
01/23/21 07:30 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,162 USA
360view
Moparts resident spammer
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Moparts resident spammer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,162
USA
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That looks impressive. I am really interested in shaving off weight. But...the fearful thought pops into my head...What kind of violent hot fire would that Li battery create if vibration causes its internal parts to short out?
My brother-in-law bought me an expensive Li battery jump starter for Christmas one year ago. I am afraid of carrying it in the vehicle, although I have pulled dud explosives out of boreholes, parachuted, landed a plane whose engine missfired and blew an exhaust manifold right through the engine cowling, worked on live 69 kV equipment, worked alone while “Fire Bossing coal mines, rafted down dozens of Class V+ rapids, etc, etc
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: larrymopar360]
#2878768
01/23/21 08:48 AM
01/23/21 08:48 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,026 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
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master
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Tulsa OK
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What battery model is that?
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: larrymopar360]
#2878908
01/23/21 02:07 PM
01/23/21 02:07 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,396 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,396
north of coder
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something that looks odd in your picture is the terminal ends. it has to do with the space, or lack thereof, between the ears of the cable ends. knowing a person only needs to tighten the terminals snugly so they don't rotate, i have found terminals that do not have at least 1/8" gap between the ears have a tendency to not contact the post surface entirely, allowing air space [however minutely] between the terminal and post to possibly create corrosion in the future. also, the negative post looks to be sitting somewhat proud of the post top. using a set of battery terminal spreading pliers would help the fit of that. not trying to nit pic, just observing a couple of things that have caused me corrosion issues over the years.
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: moparx]
#2879321
01/24/21 12:49 PM
01/24/21 12:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,861 Central Florida
larrymopar360
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something that looks odd in your picture is the terminal ends. it has to do with the space, or lack thereof, between the ears of the cable ends. knowing a person only needs to tighten the terminals snugly so they don't rotate, i have found terminals that do not have at least 1/8" gap between the ears have a tendency to not contact the post surface entirely, allowing air space [however minutely] between the terminal and post to possibly create corrosion in the future. also, the negative post looks to be sitting somewhat proud of the post top. using a set of battery terminal spreading pliers would help the fit of that. not trying to nit pic, just observing a couple of things that have caused me corrosion issues over the years. Yes, I have to spread the negative more, I know, but thank you. I tried to split it open more with a flat screwdriver (all I have) but it wouldn't split more, and just would not go down any further on the new post. I was anxious to get it hooked up, so that was just for now, but I definitely wanted it lower. Thanks again. Larry
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: mopars4ever]
#2879324
01/24/21 12:51 PM
01/24/21 12:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,861 Central Florida
larrymopar360
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I assume you will need a special battery charger? Yes, I worked a deal and they threw the charger in on the deal. It's not much bigger than a big smart phone and probably weighs less.
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: larrymopar360]
#2879429
01/24/21 03:11 PM
01/24/21 03:11 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,396 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,396
north of coder
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don't do like my brother did one time. he bought a new battery for [i don't remember what]. the one cable didn't go down far enough, so he [GUESS WHAT ? ] pounds on it with a hammer, thereby "kinda" sinking the post into the battery, breaking the case along the way. he took it back to the store and told them "i don't know what happened ?"........... when he got back with the "new" new battery, i introduced him to the battery spreading tool............... every now and then, that story pops up between us.
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: moparx]
#2879575
01/24/21 08:13 PM
01/24/21 08:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,861 Central Florida
larrymopar360
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don't do like my brother did one time. he bought a new battery for [i don't remember what]. the one cable didn't go down far enough, so he [GUESS WHAT ? ] pounds on it with a hammer, thereby "kinda" sinking the post into the battery, breaking the case along the way. he took it back to the store and told them "i don't know what happened ?"........... when he got back with the "new" new battery, i introduced him to the battery spreading tool............... every now and then, that story pops up between us. Oh no definitely not. I tapped on it lightly with a rubber mallet to see if it was loose enough and stopped right there! I don't even like when I'm tightening down a battery terminal and it pulls on the post in one direction. I always try and counter it by pushing on the side of bolt.
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: Parasitic draw or bad battery
[Re: larrymopar360]
#2879890
01/25/21 02:13 PM
01/25/21 02:13 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,396 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
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Posts: 19,396
north of coder
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i tighten the terminal until snug feeling with the wrench, then a tick more until i can't rotate the terminal by hand. i also use some kind of dielectric compound on the post and terminal to stop any kind of corrosion caused by out-gassing of the battery. if i have any of those red and green felt post washers around, i use them with the dielectric compound. another trick i have used over the years, and it flat out WORKS, is a light spray of wd-40 on the posts and terminals. wipe off the top of the case when done just because. the wd-40 works as good, and i think BETTER, than those battery sprays and greases available, plus there is no MESS to contend with if you have to disconnect the battery for whatever reason.
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