remwmber that all pairs of lifters for a cylinder are seperated by a lifter from the other bank. [/quote]

Greg that is true but it still won't help counteract any flex in the rocker shaft. On a set of paired rockers it may make little or no difference. I believe the first time I read that it was on here from Monte Smith, I then checked my rockers to see what it did. I don't recall the number but it was pretty surprising when I checked it with my Erson W2 rockers, however the Erson Rockers had a dinky shaft that was almost floppy compared to the Harland Sharp rockers I run now. [/quote]
My thinking is all related to cam flex since i run Jesel paired rockers that are individually supported by two bolts each, the center one being shared. Flex in a common rocker shaft is another can of worms i assume.

A whisker of compression, but no flex till running

Pull the plugs so the engine can be bumped around accurately with the starter without bouncing against compression.

EOIC method. Do two cylinders at a time - front two then rear two on that bank. After doing all 8, my OCD requires me to go back and run them again just to double check. Repeat on the other side of the engine. Watching 4 valves and doing one head at a time makes it go pretty quick with a minimum of bumping the engine around. And you're less likely to miss something than if your jumping all around..

Feeler gauge run in the side on a roller tip - parallel to the roller axle - set pretty snug so you have to give it a good push or pull. Open the lash, slide the gauge in, run the adjuster down onto the gauge and give it another tweak so it's right when the jam nut is snugged. After a while you know how much to tweak it.

I've always put some heat in it, but that's another discussion.

With the info you posted Dwayne, i am going to take the time to go over my methods on this. I want to be on the tight side of the recomended settings, which are .019 and. 920 hot. So minus .002 for tighter, and minus .006 for cold settings, that gives me .011 and .012 cold. I was setting them .015 cold before.

When you’re working with blades that thin, it’s difficult to get the drag as tight as I’d have it if the blade was thicker.
The thin blades just bend...... so I’m shooting for as much drag as is practical with the tighter lash(thinner blade) stuff.

more than you think do this !
as a machinist for over 42+yrs before retirement, this was a HARD habit to break for the guys i supervised.

as i have VERY limited valve lash experience, what feeler gauge experience i do have, i like to use a go/no go blade selection.
such as .021 no go, and .019 as a somewhat tight/slight drag go.
this takes experience of YOUR feel to get repetitive results.
also, a quality set of feeler strips being mandatory is a no brainer.

please remember, this is just MY opinion and experience. your mileage will vary for sure.

EOIC is the only way I can remember.

If I try to get the same light touch I'd use micing a crank, it takes me forever and I can't hardly get two of them the same.

I have to have quite a hard pull on the gauge....otherwise they end up all over the place.

Everyone is different.......

I also use the EOIC method, I have a starter button on my radiator support, and they make feeler gauges with two sizes on the tip, so first size is snug and the next size will not go through. Temp is a bigger factor, if you start on a hot engine, most specs are for hot lash, by the time you get to the other side how much has it cooled? I set them cold on the engine stand, then check when warmed up, noting the difference, and then calculate a cold setting I use from then on. I use this chart from hot specs on the engine stand cold.

Block Material Head Material Lash Adjustment
Iron Iron Add 0.002”
Iron Aluminum Subtract 0.006”
Aluminum Aluminum Subtract 0.012”

As for hot lash. On mine you can't make it to the opposite bank before it cools enough to make a change on the exhaust side.
Doug

When i set the lash in the car or on a engine dyno with the motor warmed up I do one side and then run the motor long enough to get the water temps back to 160 to 180 or whatever the temps where when i did the first side
If I'm using a breaker bar to rotate the crank while I will watch the exhaust rocker arm and when it starts to move I will set the intake lash, I use to then rotate the crank over until the intake valve opened all the way and started to close some and then set the exhaust.
I'm going to go back to letting the intake valve close all the way and rotate the crank another 15 to 30 crankshaft degrees and then set the exhaust

I too have to do mine cold. It takes 4 hours alone just to get the hemi valve covers off. Lol

One of the main reasons I call them Hemiroid motors
AKA aside I cut my teeth on the early Chrysler Firepower 331/392 C.I. hemi motors a long time ago