That would make sense. This is a single wire circuit that feeds only one side of the ammeter. If the red wire had contacted ground near the meter or if that side of the meter was grounded internally, then this would have been the result. The other side of the meter apparently didn't go to ground or the black wire would have melted. You are on the correct path to cause and repair.
Doug

My memory may have failed me.

I got home from work and ran out in the dark with a flashlight. I couldn't remember what wires were cooked. I have also done some repairs so it was difficult to tell. I found a photo from 2 years ago when the carnage happened. This is not a current photo, but it gives idea what originally happened.

It looks like ORIGINALLY, it cooked both wires. Since then, I thought I had it fixed and got it running again. I did replace the alternator thinking this may be the problem.

This time the black wire is slightly melted under the dash, and the fusible link is also cooked now....so a repeat.

So my idea that the amp meter is the blame may not be the case, but at least I'm narrowing it down.

So am I correct to narrow down possible culprits FOR NOW to the ignition switch, headlamp switch, or horn relay?

Thanks!

eightlitermopar

A couple of possibilities. The red and black are intertwined so when one got hot, they both melted next to each other. Or the short to ground lies further past the ammeter. There will be splice in the black wire under the dash. From the splice if one of the circuits are melted follow it. Or the short goes back towards the alternator. Was the black wire melted between the alternator and the firewall bulkhead?
Doug

I am at work again, but I will check on my next day off.

Originally, the black AND red were hot all the way to the bulkhead, but not in the engine bay.

I believe now that the hot wire damage is from the starter relay fuseable link and under the dash black wire only.

I'm looking at the headlight switch next, but i will post updates.

eight

Looking at the wires you need to remove the dash harness and either repair it or replace it. I suspect the engine harness is no better. You have either high resistance or something shorted to ground.

if it were mine, i would pull the entire harness and closely examine it from the bulkhead in both directions.
that means removing all tape and the wires from all the connectors.
check the connections for corrosion at the terminals, especially where the crimp is, as well as the wire covering for brittleness.
it may be time to just replace the entire harness with a new one because of age.

The "gunshot" sound is what I experienced last fall, while driving my car home from a local cruise. The car completely died after the "shot" went off. It had to be flatbedded home obviously.
Found out the fusible link had fried near the bulkhead, the starter relay, and the starter went bad...all three were replaced, runs fine now.
EDIT: I used a new (not reman) mini style starter for a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 360 V8 when replacing the old starter...if that helps you any.

That is kinda where I am now. I have a replacement harness that I bought from a parted out car, but I don't want to quite do that yet. But I am prepared if it comes to that. However, if i have to go that route I may upgrade to modern fuses and connectors.




I am in the process of replacing the starter and fusible link. The starter relay was replaced earlier this week. I will also repair all all wires that are obviously crispy.

I ordered a new headlight switch that I will replace when I pull the dash to inspect the wires. I figured it may be the problem, and if I have the dash out anyway.....

I also have a 1972 roadrunner 4 speed column that I may put in its place at this time. My current one is a column shift but I have had a B and M floor shifter for 20 years. I didn't see any hot melted wires in the column though.

One step at a time. The starter is and wire repair is the next step.

Thanks again for the input guys.

eight