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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: NITROUSN] #2884909
02/06/21 11:22 PM
02/06/21 11:22 PM
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Cleveland, Ohio
northcoastmopar Offline OP
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Originally Posted by NITROUSN
As far as I can recall the factory cross member in that year was bolted directly to the frame rails. You might have to research that to be sure. I can not recall it being shimmed down. That 205 case is tough. I would fix any visable leaks and run it as is. Save your money.


It has plenty of leaks. I’ll get a seal kit for it and clean it up.

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: northcoastmopar] #2885362
02/07/21 11:09 PM
02/07/21 11:09 PM
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northcoastmopar Offline OP
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Ok, so I go to drop the transfer case so I can replace leaky seals. Rather work on it on the bench versus laying on my back on the garage floor.

Anyways the two bolts holding up the TC on the drivers side have some kind of cap or lock that covers roughly a 1/4 of the bolt head. It appears this cap has a base that sits under the bolt head. It hard to get a good look at them because there is not much clearance. Haven’t been able to figure out how to get a good grab on the bolt with a wrench. Never seen these kind of caps before.

Anyone familiar with these bolt caps and if so how do you deal with them?

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: northcoastmopar] #2885475
02/08/21 11:51 AM
02/08/21 11:51 AM
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Can you sneak a picture? Its been a long time but I can picture a plate under the bolts with a tab that is bent up against the bolt head so it will not loosen. If so you need to find a way to rap them down or pry them down. Most likely this was done on the line before any sheet metal was installed.

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: NITROUSN] #2885553
02/08/21 02:51 PM
02/08/21 02:51 PM
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Saw your thread on RamchargerCentral, and answered there, but you should be able to get a wrench on those bolt heads; I don't remember a "cap" on those bolt heads. It has a small plate under the two bolts, but mine did not had a bent-up keeper on the two bolts, on my '73. As I'd said over there, I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.

On the transmission crossmember, mine is a bolted-on situation, also, so I'm guessing that's a factory thing. How is the tailshaft mount? Mine was bad, and the engine/tranny had torqued towards the driver side, to the point that the tailshaft mount was vibrating a notch on the crossmember. I got a new mount, loosened everything up, and straightened the whole thing out. I still have vibration that starts around 42 mph, so something is still not right on mine. Stub shaft was balanced with the other 2 driveshafts, along with new Spicer u-joints, but I've read that it does not take much to get the stub shaft to cause vibration in these trucks.

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: jcruse64] #2885664
02/08/21 09:21 PM
02/08/21 09:21 PM
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northcoastmopar Offline OP
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Was able to get my phone up there and get a pic. I see what I have now, it’s a pretty stout plate that straddles both bolts with a corner bent over each of the bolt heads.

Just got to get something in there to bend the corner down.

Fun.

6553FE44-65BF-405E-9C8C-F91A5798D481.jpeg
Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: jcruse64] #2885665
02/08/21 09:25 PM
02/08/21 09:25 PM
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northcoastmopar Offline OP
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Originally Posted by jcruse64
Saw your thread on RamchargerCentral, and answered there, but you should be able to get a wrench on those bolt heads; I don't remember a "cap" on those bolt heads. It has a small plate under the two bolts, but mine did not had a bent-up keeper on the two bolts, on my '73. As I'd said over there, I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.

On the transmission crossmember, mine is a bolted-on situation, also, so I'm guessing that's a factory thing. How is the tailshaft mount? Mine was bad, and the engine/tranny had torqued towards the driver side, to the point that the tailshaft mount was vibrating a notch on the crossmember. I got a new mount, loosened everything up, and straightened the whole thing out. I still have vibration that starts around 42 mph, so something is still not right on mine. Stub shaft was balanced with the other 2 driveshafts, along with new Spicer u-joints, but I've read that it does not take much to get the stub shaft to cause vibration in these trucks.


My tail shaft was butchered like the rest of the install. The horizontal trans mount bolt wasn’t installed through the bushing that is surrounded by the rubber...it was installed through the rubber in a hole cut through under the bushing. Was hard to get the bolt out.

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: northcoastmopar] #2885681
02/08/21 10:10 PM
02/08/21 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by northcoastmopar
Was able to get my phone up there and get a pic. I see what I have now, it’s a pretty stout plate that straddles both bolts with a corner bent over each of the bolt heads.

Just got to get something in there to bend the corner down.

Fun.



That's the way I pictured it. The tabs have to be bent back to get the bolts out. That case is heavy and can be a pain in the butt getting the bolts back in. If you are just replacing the seals I would do it in the truck.

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: jcruse64] #2885731
02/09/21 12:56 AM
02/09/21 12:56 AM
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Gilroy,CA.
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Originally Posted by jcruse64
I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.



where do you source the new bushings for the divorced transfer case crossmember mounts?


408 Stroker 533 HP 520 FT LBS...........................1970 Dart RMS AlterKation
Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: northcoastmopar] #2886289
02/10/21 12:12 PM
02/10/21 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by northcoastmopar
Originally Posted by jcruse64
Saw your thread on RamchargerCentral, and answered there, but you should be able to get a wrench on those bolt heads; I don't remember a "cap" on those bolt heads. It has a small plate under the two bolts, but mine did not had a bent-up keeper on the two bolts, on my '73. As I'd said over there, I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.

On the transmission crossmember, mine is a bolted-on situation, also, so I'm guessing that's a factory thing. How is the tailshaft mount? Mine was bad, and the engine/tranny had torqued towards the driver side, to the point that the tailshaft mount was vibrating a notch on the crossmember. I got a new mount, loosened everything up, and straightened the whole thing out. I still have vibration that starts around 42 mph, so something is still not right on mine. Stub shaft was balanced with the other 2 driveshafts, along with new Spicer u-joints, but I've read that it does not take much to get the stub shaft to cause vibration in these trucks.


My tail shaft was butchered like the rest of the install. The horizontal trans mount bolt wasn’t installed through the bushing that is surrounded by the rubber...it was installed through the rubber in a hole cut through under the bushing. Was hard to get the bolt out.


Mine was broken. The one on it also had a hole for lining up and bolting the bottom of the "V" to the crossmember. My replacement did not.

I don't remember the corners on my plate being bent up for a "keeper". Maybe I forgot, lol.

Good luck!

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: mopardude318] #2886291
02/10/21 12:14 PM
02/10/21 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mopardude318
Originally Posted by jcruse64
I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.



where do you source the new bushings for the divorced transfer case crossmember mounts?


https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-4101G-UNIVERSAL-MOUNT/dp/B000CN9BZ0/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Energy+Suspension%27s+9.4101G+Universal+Mount&link_code=qs&qid=1612973356&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-2&tag=mozilla-20

These are perfect replacements for the OEM rubber ones. I bought 205 bushings for a Bronco of that era, and they did not work. These do. Thanks goes to user KurtfromLaquinta on RCC; he;d used them when he rebuilt his 1974 W100, and they worked well for him.

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: jcruse64] #2886636
02/11/21 02:08 AM
02/11/21 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jcruse64
Originally Posted by mopardude318
Originally Posted by jcruse64
I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.



where do you source the new bushings for the divorced transfer case crossmember mounts?


https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-4101G-UNIVERSAL-MOUNT/dp/B000CN9BZ0/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Energy+Suspension%27s+9.4101G+Universal+Mount&link_code=qs&qid=1612973356&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-2&tag=mozilla-20

These are perfect replacements for the OEM rubber ones. I bought 205 bushings for a Bronco of that era, and they did not work. These do. Thanks goes to user KurtfromLaquinta on RCC; he;d used them when he rebuilt his 1974 W100, and they worked well for him.
alright thanks! Looks like I have to order 2 of those kits?


408 Stroker 533 HP 520 FT LBS...........................1970 Dart RMS AlterKation
Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: mopardude318] #2887155
02/12/21 12:10 PM
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Yes, 2 of them.

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: jcruse64] #2891770
02/22/21 09:42 AM
02/22/21 09:42 AM
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northcoastmopar Offline OP
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Ok, hopefully last question on this thread. I have the trans rebuilt wit a correct tail case and intermediate shaft. Just waiting on u-joints from rockauto that have shipping delays.

At any rate, I noticed there are a bunch of washers stacked on each of my motor mounts. I'm assuming these were used to move the engine and trans back a bit for mounting the incorrect 2WD trans. In order to remove them I'm guessing I will need to mount the trans and support it with the harbor freight trans jack and then use the floor jack to lift each side of the engine and remove these washers?

Also, one freeze plug on each side have been replaced with the expandable rubber-type plugs and look to have been leaking pretty good. I'm not sure I can get at them to replace them with metal plugs, if I can't are these expandable rubber plugs a decent solution or do they typically leak?

Thanks!

IMG_1676.jpgIMG_1668.jpg
Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: northcoastmopar] #2891773
02/22/21 09:52 AM
02/22/21 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by northcoastmopar
Also, one freeze plug on each side have been replaced with the expandable rubber-type plugs and look to have been leaking pretty good. I'm not sure I can get at them to replace them with metal plugs, if I can't are these expandable rubber plugs a decent solution or do they typically leak?


I think they're a cheap easy solution for something you're about to sell, if you want the buyer to have to do it right later. NEVER in my car.


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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: northcoastmopar] #2891809
02/22/21 11:15 AM
02/22/21 11:15 AM
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If it were me while the transmission is out I would replace all the freeze plugs I could get to. Take the washers out of the mounts and with the mounts off you should have easier access to the plugs on the side of the block. Just so you know your speedometer will drive off the transfer case not the transmission. Make a dust cap for the transmission speedometer housing. Find a rubber cap and silicone it to it.

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: NITROUSN] #2891824
02/22/21 11:44 AM
02/22/21 11:44 AM
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The speedo cable was connected to the trans, not the TC. There is a cap on the TC now where a speedo cable would be connected. I don't know if my speedo cable has enough length to reach the TC.

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: northcoastmopar] #2891831
02/22/21 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by northcoastmopar
The speedo cable was connected to the trans, not the TC. There is a cap on the TC now where a speedo cable would be connected. I don't know if my speedo cable has enough length to reach the TC.



Then you have the wrong cable. Not that it wont work. High range 1 to 1 it will be fine as long as you have the right gear for your axle ratio. Low range is another story. For now get the bugs out and the odds and ends you can do later.

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: NITROUSN] #2891837
02/22/21 12:19 PM
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you're this far into it...pull the engine and replace all the freeze plus, reseal regasket, freshen up the engine paint, etc.


Dave


1969 Plymouth road runner post 383 4 speed F8
1981 Dodge D150 360 auto
Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: basketcase] #2891992
02/22/21 08:36 PM
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The motor mount bracket looks to me like someone put a 318 bracket on a 360. The plug wire is hiding the rear lug, but it looks to me that the bracket is tight against the ear on the block, and the washers are taking up space because the bolt was too long. The front of the bracket used washers to take up the space between the ear on the block and the bracket. I've seen that trick several times before, not that I would have ever done it. whistling

I'm in agreement with replacing all the freeze plugs. If two have already been replaced because they leaked, the others can't be far behind. Don't forget the two freeze plugs at the back of the block, between the block and the trans. Replace the crappy rubber junk with either steel or brass replacement plugs. New gaskets and a repaint isn't a bad idea either.

Its pretty easy to spend someone else's money! Gene

Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration [Re: poorboy] #2892010
02/22/21 09:11 PM
02/22/21 09:11 PM
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I agree on the freeze plugs.
For the engine mount when I had to replace my car 360 one a few years ago everything that came in was for 318 so we gave up and did the spacer thing. I forget if it's washers or a nut we used. With everything else that's been cobbled together on your truck it seems like someone threw it together with whatever parts they had or could easily find.

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