If you’re really worried about that, mix it with oil before pouring in engine.

I think some of you are making this more difficult than it has to be.

Your viscosity should be bases on your clearances, if known.

We've used (for our clearances) VR1 as break-in and normal running with no problems,
hyd. flat tappet, 6500 RPMs and solid roller stroker 6000 RPMs

Just our experience, I know many of your builds are more extreme, but VR1 has been flawless for us.

Just my 2 cents, Joe

I love OIL threads, so entertaining.

So, if you go by the rules in USA, Shell Rotella T5 is Synthetic. But in the Euro rules it is just a highly refined dino oil... But it is still a good oil.

Zinc and Phorphous should be above 800 PPM for a slider cam. But this level will kill a CatCon so that is why most modern oils do not have any.

Most oil fanatics will NEVER blend different weights or brands. But if you do blend, kind of know what your mixing. For a street daily driver, mixing can be OK if your sphincter muscle is not too tight.

I have a 110 volt hot plate that will keep food at 145 to 170 degrees F. I do this outside in the driveway, not inside the garage... I would pour three quarts of my base stock oil into a 4 quart Revele Ware pan. Then I'd add the GM EOS Zinc additive, 1 can of STP and heat it up. I mix it real well and then pour some into the oil filter and the rest in the engine and top off with base stock oil.

My engine builder said only use this for break-in. Plenty of zinc. He builds F.A.S.T. motors and knows what he is doing.

Really? “Most modern oils do not have any”?

Please post your source for this very interesting information!

A bit off topic...but thought I would post anyhow. Here is how I filled my 4 speed while in the car. It took awhile to fill all 3.5 quarts but worked very well. Don't ask me why I wasn't smart enough to fill before install.

A simple hand pump works too! And you are down there when it starts overflowing to deal with it!