I apologize for the long absence, but had to focus on more immediate work for the last month.

I'm assembling the front direct clutch drum, and the frictions that I was supplied are the hi-energy waffle pattern frictions. Will this affect anything if I use these in place of the flat frictions that I see depicted in the book and videos I'm referencing?

This are the frictions that shipped with my rebuild kit, part number A22008E.

Also the gentleman in the videos says that if the clearance is tighter than .090 then binding will occur between the 2-3 shifts. The FSM states that .070-.129 is good to go. Is there any truth to this? I ask because my assembly measures at .078.

Using production hard parts and following production specs won’t cause binding.
That’s usually caused by messing with servo internals, front clutch release spring stack, and sometimes messing with the valve body.

Most guys tend to stick with the middle of the spec range for clurch clearance but you will be fine where you are.

As for the waffle discs, they provide more lube to the clutch discs which helps cool the clutch - like in snow plow use, frequent reverse applications.
The other theory is that the waffle grid wipes the oil off the steels faster instead of hydroplaning.

Like sipes in a tire.

Thank you for explaining that. I had a feeling that was the purpose, but wanted to double check before I installed it all.

And.....it happened again. I was sold another part that does not match the specs for what I need. The front input shaft has a flared edge that is two different sizes, where it mates with the inner pump bushing. I'll take a picture and post it below.

The new one I was sold measures 1.235, whereas the old one measures 1.172. So I guess I get to go find another shaft. Because the original one is ruined where it mates with the intermediate shaft.

The new one is on the left.

If you are talking about the journal below the two input shaft seal rings, yes there are two sizes for the more modern units.

Yes, sir, that is exactly what I mean. I realize that I was solely focused on the front sealing ring diameter, not even thinking about the large journal that rides in the stator bushing. I'm trying to track down the smaller correct size.

Are there any major pitfalls to avoid when pressing one out and into that front drum?

Look closely just below that journal and you will notice a wire retainer ring. That has to come out first.

Then press the input shaft out - “up” as shown in your images.

Support the rear clutch piston support in your press as close to the diameter of the input shaft as possible, like where the thrust washer seats.
I have seen guys crack the support when not doing so.

Thank you, sir. I hope it does not come to that. The seller says they are going to make it right. Hopefully they have the correct OD shaft and drum assembly.

This wonderful thread should be expanded into a book.

As an owner of a 1995 46RH that needs an overdrive unit rebuild I never knew there were so many important part variations.

If it hadn't been for Transman, I would never have been able to tackle this build with any success. I had zero knowledge of the parts differences in these transmissions, either.

I'm happy if my build can help any other people. The actual assembly isn't hard, just follow his hints! He's saved me alot of time and pulled me out of the woods everytime I've gotten stuck.

In case anyone needs to know the two different journal sizes on these input shafts, here they are.

The small shaft measures 1.159 OD on the land that rides in the stator bushing.

The large shaft measures 1.243 OD on the land that rides in the stator bushing.

Alright, back at it for the last part of the build before install.

The three tab thrust washer was missing on this build originally, What is the correct thickness washer to use?

I ordered a three tab thrust washer and hardened steel race kit, but am unsure which thickness I should be using.

Doing further research, I see that I need to install the rest of the assemblies, including the pump with no o-ring for ease of removal. Then measure total endplay with my Starret dial indicator. If I fall within specs, then I'm good to go. I've installed the intermediate of the three thrust washers first.

Endplay comes to .030 with the intermediate of the three washers installed. I'm searching through all my publications to find out if this is within spec. If anyone has specs around please post so that I can confirm.

.036 - .086” seems to be the number. I’ll check in a bit.

Thank you sir. Using the thinnest of the three washers will get me there, it looks like.

Here's what I did, if you don't mind checking my work.

1. Install input shaft, rear drum, then pump, aligning everything (washer and hardened race installed). I did not intall the kickdown band

2. Install gasket and hand tighten two of the pump bolts to hold it in place

3. Used a lever against the shaft (unit is upright) to move it to the extreme upward range before the transmission wants to move as a unit.

Dial read exactly .030

With the thin washer installed, the endplay is now .041.

Got the drums, kickdown band, and pump installed. All that's left is the valvebody, as far as I can tell.

2000 MY manual calls for .034” to .084” so hit me with a 2 x 4 - I was off .002” on min/max.

You will usually get a different number if you stand the trans up versus checking while horizontal.

At .041” I think you are good to go.

Thank you, sir. Once the valvebody is installed at some point this week (trade school is back in full swing again, so that's most of my time) I'll check the endplay while horizontal.

Is it worth it to try to track down one of the tools used for attaching the eclip onto the valve body, rather than trying to stab it as one unit? I remember you saying it was really easy to screw up the location of the parking pawl.

Since your unit is vertical already I would just install the vb and rod as an assembly. Just be aware of the position of the rod passage and focus on that during installation. It helps to have someone turn the output shaft as you install the vb/rod assy.

Don’t forget to be careful installing the vb in regards to the od plug - lightly grease that bore and the pass through plug. Start a couple vb bolts then work the linkage to make sure park works.

Thank you, sir. I appreciate all of the advice. I will report back once the VB is installed this weekend, and let you know how it went.

VB install will be this upcoming weekend. Still trying to find someone to swap this thing, my normal mechanic is a month and a half out.

Finallly have room at my mechanic's shop for him to do the swap either this upcoming week. The truck is finally succumbing to the brutal Florida heat, and I can feel the loss of power on the highway in third gear.

So, today is VB installation. I don't have another hand to help turn it, so will just do my best to get it stabbed right.