I bought a Big block rear main seal but no instructions came with it. Anyone have instructions? Two days and nobody at tritec or Elite racing will answer the phone.

A "three piece" main seal. That sounds like a bunch more places to leak !!!

picture and part no ?











































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Looks like the O ring stretches over the crank flange but does the O ring go inside or outside the seal halves?

over the outside. Also they go in dry. Absolutely no lube on crank or seal or they will leak. But which way do they face and any other instructions?
These seals are made of ptfe and tgat is why no lube.

I believe that you are looking at the outside. The lip that is sticking up in the picture should be a dust seal.

Brian

Well considering they operate with vacuum system it's tough to say what side goes to the source without having them in my hand. Maybe one of the Chevy sites have information on them or the Bullet
Gus

Pic of seal. Tan inner lip gray outer lip and sealing band. So far i know this;
Instal DRY! Crank included. Any lube will cause a leak.
Splits at 12 and 6 oclock
Very light lube on outer edge of sealing band so it doesn't stick and bunch up when the crank is installed
I do not know which way it goes in - lip turned in or out?

Me thinks I will pass on this seal for now

From what I've read about these seals they have to be used with a vacuum so that would mean the lip would go to the crank flange. That way when your pump is pulling vacuum it will suck that seal lip tight against the journal . That's the way I would install it.
Gus

From what your saying the lip of the seal would go in towards the crank.. I would put that seal in
with the lip(the loose or free side) of the seal outward so air coming in would expand the lip to
assist in sealing.. if it had no vac pump then I would turn the seal around due to pressure already
on the crank case.. I guess it comes down to terminology.. what is the lip

I agree with you guys logic, but then i also wanted to sale on the Titanic😅 So i hope you understand my hesitation till i get instructions.

When I say crank flange I mean the flange the flywheel bolts to.
Gus

Got ya.. I took that to mean crank side as to the inside of the engine not the exterior(out side)

FINALLY! Talked to the engineer that designs these seals for Nascar and prostock.
The lip faces the transmission so vacuum pulls it tighter. Install dry and dry crank surface. Self lubing. except for light lube on the outer O ring for ease of install. Splits at 10 and 2 oclock. PTFE Can withstand very high rpm and much wider temp range than other seals.

10 and 2? How would that work? 10 and 4 or 2 and 8 maybe.....

Andy, the engineers explanation was that that achieved good, even compression of both parts of the seal.

10 and 2 are not 180 degrees apart so it doesn't make any sense.

Since the two parts crush slightly when the retainer is installed, if the two parts were both at 12 oclock they would not have to slide on each other to seat properly but might leak. If they were 180 degrees from each other that would create the largest amount of slip between the inner and outer parts. 10 and 2 make sense to me because they would be offset a lot but wouldn't have to slip as much to crush together, eliminating distortion. 572boatracer has been able to pull some very high vacuum using these seals.
The engineer also asked what seal i was using on the front of the crank. The Milodon geardrive seal works fine but Tritec makes a special seal for Jesel beltdrives to help hold vacuum.

Okay so put one end of the seal at 10 o'clock and the other end at 2 o'clock and tell me how that looks to you!