Instead of replacing/repairing the spade connectors there is a better way. Remove the bulk head connector. Cut the terminals from the black wire on both sides of the connector. Drill the bulkhead (both sides engine and body) where the wire went through to the same diameter of the wire. Run a piece of same gauge wire thru both the engine connector and the bulkhead. Use this to splice between the two sections. Use high quality splices not junk. Make it long enough so there is some extra under the dash. That way if you need to pull the bulkhead off you will have slack. You can always cut the under dash side for complete removal. The spade connectors get corrode/loose increasing resistance. Then they heat up. This way you are rid of them. Looks factory. You can do the red wire as well. I've been running this set up 17 years on my Challenger with a 110 amp alternator. Gauge still functions. No over heating of the wire.
Doug

Great idea

Pretty, have to get it running!

I thought you would be curious as to what the final outcome was to get the car to run right. Ended up being a big list, good example of what can go wrong with a car that sits as long as this one did.

1.Fuel pump. Seals were shot, seems to have actually leaked a bit of gas in to the block, discovered it when I pulled the distributor after it had run, incredible smell. I had changed the oil when I first got it and had not smelled it then. So, new fuel pump, flushed out the oil.
2. Bulkhead connectors were melted In several places. Replaced all the engine bay harnesses, replaced the bulkhead connector assembly, but stayed with the dash harness as it seemed OK after a couple of repairs.
3. Flaky ignition switch, replaced, rebuilt the column while there. The wires had been previously spliced, not very well.
4. Rebuilt the carb, it was sort of OK but remarkable amount of filth in the carb.
5. Since I was replacing harnesses, I swapped it over to Mopar Electronic Ignition. I converted the existing distributor to be an electronic ignition unit, came out great, used the FBO limiting plate to control the factory advance curve, the distributor was full of old grease gunk and dirt. Along the way, I ditched the old solenoid driven vacuum advance for a normal unit. Swapped the plug wires while at it, old ones seemed pretty soft and floppy.

This all on top of a brake system rebuild (bad booster, rebuilt by the RamMan) and a replaced water pump with a bad seal (flushed cooling sytem). Next up is probably transmission...it shifts well and with authority, but the kick down isn’t really happening like it should (it starts in 1st as appropriate from a stop, shifts up well (maybe a little quick in spite of repeated linkage adjustments, but doesn’t kick down from 3rd to 2nd when punched). I am sure the throttle cable is pulling the carb all the way open, I had to swap it as the old one was too long and was interfering with the kick down linkage. I have not yet dropped the pan, fluid seems clean, but who knows what the filter and pan look like. The brake fluid was literally mud.

So, other than the kick down that I mentioned, the car is running great now. Swap enough parts and sooner or later it will work I guess.

Actually a great series of projects when stuck at home in this Covid mess!

Unhook the condenser off the points and see if it'll start. If it's bad the car won't start. Easy test.

happy to hear you got the old gal going !
i know well the stuff a guy finds after letting something sit for a long period. my charger is a prime example.
as you have found out, previous splices need to be looked at close, because you never know if they are good or not.
also, it's good you cleaned out the distributor of all the crap inside.
my one buddy has a duster that wouldn't run right. it turned out the crud and old grease inside the distributor had caused the advance weights to be stuck. after cleaning, what a difference that made !
go enjoy driving now !